6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
Can someone tell me where the ICP is on a 2003 6.0 it says to relocate the transmission filler tube and then remove the turbo heat shield but is it on the back of the motor or on the side where the transmission tube is?
After they had to replace all of them under a service bulletin and saw what a pain that was, they moved the location to the right side valve cover for the later 2004 model year trucks (the ones whose engines say "2004" on them) and beyond.
Duncan
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The 1997 F250HD Crewcab: Picture
The 2000 XLT Excursion <font color="red">(SOLD)</font>: Picture
The 2003 F250 Crewcab 6.0L: Web page
The 6.0L Bible: Web page
The 6.4L Bible: Web page
Mine had a few thousand miles on it when it was replaced in early 2003. (It was apparently the cold weather that was killing them; an internal seal was allowing oil into the guts of the sensor.) But it was done under warranty by the dealer. I know the archives here around that time contained a lot of theories on how best to do it, or one of the friendly techs that posts here might chime in with how they finally ended up deciding to work on them most easily. I think removing a heat shield and wriggling up from the bottom was one way, with a modified wrench to unscrew it?
Duncan
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The 1997 F250HD Crewcab: Picture
The 2000 XLT Excursion <font color="red">(SOLD)</font>: Picture
The 2003 F250 Crewcab 6.0L: Web page
The 6.0L Bible: Web page
The 6.4L Bible: Web page
I've found it easier to work it from the top. Remove the degas jug, remove the FICM and bracket, remove the nut on the rear stud holding a groung lug, remove the rear stud on the intake manifold, put a light over the turbo y-pipe for illumination and jam your hand down there to the sensor. Unplug it and the IPR connector, and pull the whole harness up and away. Then, I use a flare-nut type crowfoot on a wobble and long extension to break it loose. Spin the old one out and the new one in by hand, tighten with the crowfoot again, and splice a new connector onto the harness if the old one is oil soaked.
The hardest part of the job is getting the connector back on the ICP sensor. You just gotta do it by feel.
The alternative is to raise the vehicle, remove the heat shield off the back of the motor (two 10mm bolts and one 13mm bolt) and work it from the bottom. 4wd vehicles are exceedingly difficult to do in this way because of the front driveshaft.
Allocate sufficient time to do this job, because it sounds easy - but it's not. A little alcohol would probably help out too...
Help what? Help clean the connector/wiring, or help the person going the job?
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My html Version of the 6.0L Bible Now with 2005 Updates $5 AIC
2003 F-350 Lariat CC/6.0L Diesel/TorqShift/3.73/FX4/SRW/Dark Shadow Gray.
Born on date: Jan 20, 2003
Number of reflashes done: 2 (05E15 Jan 8, 2007)
Number of C94 injectors replaced: 0
Number of times the EGR valve has been replaced/cleaned: 0 (updated: 4/15/2010)
The Right Way to Replace the ICP Sensor on a 2003 6.0L
Ok, so I read all the posts about how guys were doing this. The majority of the people said that it was easier from the top. This is absolutely FALSE. The following is hands down the easiest way to get this job done without going insane. First, get the truck up on some ramps or jack stands. The key here is to get the truck high enough so you can sit under it comfortably. Next, if you have 4WD...like I do, remove the drive shaft that is in your way. It's just a few bolts and is out of there in minutes...easy. Just remember to index the shaft. It's always a good idea to put stuff back the way you took it off. Next, get yourself a LONG ty-rap. Ty-Rap the trans linkage out of your way. I just went around the frame with the ty-rap and pulled the trans linkage cable close to the frame. If you dont do this, you'll find your arm will scrap against it every time you reach your arm up to the sensor. Open the hood...especially if it light outside...makes seeing everything much easier. Grab a good flashlight too. Ok, now bust out your 1/4 drive stuff. Grab a small ratchet and an small extention. You'll need a 10mm and a 13 mm. Ok, now that you have the drive shaft out, sit under the truck on the drivers side, facing forward (as if you were driving). Now, the engine oil pan is gonna be to your right. Your head will be right next to it. Look up. The sensor is located behind a heat shield. You'll need your ratchet and 10mm first. One bolt is pretty easy to see, the other you'll have to reach farther over to the passenger side to get at...but it's not that bad. Their are two 10mm bolts. Use your extention. After that, you need to get the 13mm bolt out. It might be a little tougher to see, but with an extention not hard to remove. The 13mm bolt is on the drivers side of the heat sheild...just peak around with your flashlight and you'll find it. Once you get those out, the heat shield is removed easily. Sensor is smack center of where the trans meets the engine. Right above the trans bell housing on top of a block that's connected to the engine. Ok, now, you don't need some SPECIAL tool to get this thing out. All you need is a deep well 27mm or a 1 1/16 socket and a 1/2 drive socket cap (for limited access areas) which you can buy at Sears for cheap. Remove the connector to the sensor...just slightly raise the plastic catch and it slides right off. Clean the connector with contact cleaner. Remove sensor with socket, socket cap, and wrench (the wrench turns the socket cap). Easy...I'm mean relatively easy. I tried first from the top...the top sucks. Access is MUCH easier from the bottom. Plus that, when it comes time to reattach the connector, you don't have to do it blind. That's all folks.
Ok, so I read all the posts about how guys were doing this. The majority of the people said that it was easier from the top. This is absolutely FALSE. The following is hands down the easiest way to get this job done without going insane. First, get the truck up on some ramps or jack stands. The key here is to get the truck high enough so you can sit under it comfortably. Next, if you have 4WD...like I do, remove the drive shaft that is in your way. It's just a few bolts and is out of there in minutes...easy. Just remember to index the shaft. It's always a good idea to put stuff back the way you took it off. Next, get yourself a LONG ty-rap. Ty-Rap the trans linkage out of your way. I just went around the frame with the ty-rap and pulled the trans linkage cable close to the frame. If you dont do this, you'll find your arm will scrap against it every time you reach your arm up to the sensor. Open the hood...especially if it light outside...makes seeing everything much easier. Grab a good flashlight too. Ok, now bust out your 1/4 drive stuff. Grab a small ratchet and an small extention. You'll need a 10mm and a 13 mm. Ok, now that you have the drive shaft out, sit under the truck on the drivers side, facing forward (as if you were driving). Now, the engine oil pan is gonna be to your right. Your head will be right next to it. Look up. The sensor is located behind a heat shield. You'll need your ratchet and 10mm first. One bolt is pretty easy to see, the other you'll have to reach farther over to the passenger side to get at...but it's not that bad. Their are two 10mm bolts. Use your extention. After that, you need to get the 13mm bolt out. It might be a little tougher to see, but with an extention not hard to remove. The 13mm bolt is on the drivers side of the heat sheild...just peak around with your flashlight and you'll find it. Once you get those out, the heat shield is removed easily. Sensor is smack center of where the trans meets the engine. Right above the trans bell housing on top of a block that's connected to the engine. Ok, now, you don't need some SPECIAL tool to get this thing out. All you need is a deep well 27mm or a 1 1/16 socket and a 1/2 drive socket cap (for limited access areas) which you can buy at Sears for cheap. Remove the connector to the sensor...just slightly raise the plastic catch and it slides right off. Clean the connector with contact cleaner. Remove sensor with socket, socket cap, and wrench (the wrench turns the socket cap). Easy...I'm mean relatively easy. I tried first from the top...the top sucks. Access is MUCH easier from the bottom. Plus that, when it comes time to reattach the connector, you don't have to do it blind. That's all folks.
9/18/09 Just wanted to thank you for your time spent in posting this information. My stepson used your info to install the ICP Sensor in his 2003 F250 6.0., today. He has spent the last week trying to find the part on the motor to replace it. From Pictures on the 2003 6.0 Bible I found on the internet we figured out where it was, but no directions on how to install a new one. Your directions were invaluable. I copied and pasted to my e-mail. Then numbered each of your steps for easier following of the procedure. Just wanted you to know how much we appreciate your blog. Awesome. In Princeton WV.
Have a good fall and winter. And thanks again. Karen
Just did mine like GregH said and I had no problems. I let the air out of the LF tire to lower it some. I am 5ft 6in so any drop was good. Took about 1 hour and 15 min. I have never owned a diesel or worked on one accept for service. My truck had 72k and dealer said it was not covered. 5 yr 100k from date of service.
Ok, so I read all the posts about how guys were doing this. The majority of the people said that it was easier from the top. This is absolutely FALSE. The following is hands down the easiest way to get this job done without going insane. First, get the truck up on some ramps or jack stands. The key here is to get the truck high enough so you can sit under it comfortably. Next, if you have 4WD...like I do, remove the drive shaft that is in your way. It's just a few bolts and is out of there in minutes...easy. Just remember to index the shaft. It's always a good idea to put stuff back the way you took it off. Next, get yourself a LONG ty-rap. Ty-Rap the trans linkage out of your way. I just went around the frame with the ty-rap and pulled the trans linkage cable close to the frame. If you dont do this, you'll find your arm will scrap against it every time you reach your arm up to the sensor. Open the hood...especially if it light outside...makes seeing everything much easier. Grab a good flashlight too. Ok, now bust out your 1/4 drive stuff. Grab a small ratchet and an small extention. You'll need a 10mm and a 13 mm. Ok, now that you have the drive shaft out, sit under the truck on the drivers side, facing forward (as if you were driving). Now, the engine oil pan is gonna be to your right. Your head will be right next to it. Look up. The sensor is located behind a heat shield. You'll need your ratchet and 10mm first. One bolt is pretty easy to see, the other you'll have to reach farther over to the passenger side to get at...but it's not that bad. Their are two 10mm bolts. Use your extention. After that, you need to get the 13mm bolt out. It might be a little tougher to see, but with an extention not hard to remove. The 13mm bolt is on the drivers side of the heat sheild...just peak around with your flashlight and you'll find it. Once you get those out, the heat shield is removed easily. Sensor is smack center of where the trans meets the engine. Right above the trans bell housing on top of a block that's connected to the engine. Ok, now, you don't need some SPECIAL tool to get this thing out. All you need is a deep well 27mm or a 1 1/16 socket and a 1/2 drive socket cap (for limited access areas) which you can buy at Sears for cheap. Remove the connector to the sensor...just slightly raise the plastic catch and it slides right off. Clean the connector with contact cleaner. Remove sensor with socket, socket cap, and wrench (the wrench turns the socket cap). Easy...I'm mean relatively easy. I tried first from the top...the top sucks. Access is MUCH easier from the bottom. Plus that, when it comes time to reattach the connector, you don't have to do it blind. That's all folks.
This is my first time using any type of bloging. Well it happened to be that I was so desperately about having to fix my ford and Idid not know how to do it. When I was reading your blog it made a lot of sense, since I started doing from the top like the other person said it. When I was doing from top, it was more complicated and it was going to take much longer and that's when I decided to look for more opinions and I found yours. Just to let you know it only took like have an hour to do it. Well honestly it took half an hour just for the ICP sensor to get replaced and another 45 minutes to put back that I had removed from the top earlier. I would also like to add that I bought the sensor at International dealer cheaper than the Ford dealer. At the Ford dealer they wanted like almost 190.00 for part No. 3C3Z-9F838 and the International dealer they were asking 124.00 for part No. 1845274C92. When I removed the ICP sensor it had the International part number stamped on it. This sensor it's not a Ford part. You can find a lot parts for Powerstroke at the International dealer.
This is my first time using any type of bloging. Well it happened to be that I was so desperately about having to fix my ford and Idid not know how to do it. When I was reading your blog it made a lot of sense, since I started doing from the top like the other person said it. When I was doing from top, it was more complicated and it was going to take much longer and that's when I decided to look for more opinions and I found yours. Just to let you know it only took like have an hour to do it. Well honestly it took half an hour just for the ICP sensor to get replaced and another 45 minutes to put back that I had removed from the top earlier. I would also like to add that I bought the sensor at International dealer cheaper than the Ford dealer. At the Ford dealer they wanted like almost 190.00 for part No. 3C3Z-9F838 and the International dealer they were asking 124.00 for part No. 1845274C92. When I removed the ICP sensor it had the International part number stamped on it. This sensor it's not a Ford part. You can find a lot parts for Powerstroke at the International dealer.
the reason you can find alot of PS parts at International dealers is because international makes the PS so yuo are 100% correct you will find alot of parts at other places other then ford like i just rebuilt my front axle and every part came from a jeep sight cause ford couldnt get it or it was way over priced thanks for the part # to i needed them
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