6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
Hey there...I have an 07 F250 wih 90k on it....it was cranking for 15 to 20 seconds...ford did an update on the pcm and it cranks for 5 to 6 seconds now when cold and 3 to 4 seconds when warm......its been in the shop for 5 weeks off and on this summer....ford replaced a wire harness on the hpop....then something on the IPR and still cranks for a long time.......one day I cranked it for over 2 minutes even after it was warmed up and had been shut off for 10 minutes.....im looking for any suggestions to tell the ford dealership cause they obviously don't get it
I just fixed my leaky STC fitting and my crank times are now back at 1-1.5 seconds whether hot or cold.
I had the infamous 'No Start Hot' failure at Carl's Junior, forcing me to have the vehicle towed home....I'm ecstatic that it failed 3 miles from home, instead of 100. I spent the last 2 weeks repairing all the known issues, other than putting in head studs.
I read on one of the forums that they bought a new HPOP and it still had the STC fitting on it.
Based on my experience, I think you should press Ford for whether or not your vehicle has the STC fitting. If it does, I believe it's a matter of when it will fail, not if.
Just my 2 cents, after spending 6 years waiting for this failure mode and it finally happened. If I had not read about it so extensively on the forums I would never have attempted to fix it myself. I got the run around from Ford for 5 years and eventually determined that the Warranty was useless for this particular failure because the symptoms are so marginal. The Dealer was able to argue, in my case, that they are not conclusive. I had cold start issues (white smoke) that I believe are related and will prove to myself this Winter one way or another. Nonetheless, I hope this is helpful information for you.
I just fixed my leaky STC fitting and my crank times are now back at 1-1.5 seconds whether hot or cold.
I had the infamous 'No Start Hot' failure at Carl's Junior, forcing me to have the vehicle towed home....I'm ecstatic that it failed 3 miles from home, instead of 100. I spent the last 2 weeks repairing all the known issues, other than putting in head studs.
I read on one of the forums that they bought a new HPOP and it still had the STC fitting on it.
Based on my experience, I think you should press Ford for whether or not your vehicle has the STC fitting. If it does, I believe it's a matter of when it will fail, not if.
Just my 2 cents, after spending 6 years waiting for this failure mode and it finally happened. If I had not read about it so extensively on the forums I would never have attempted to fix it myself. I got the run around from Ford for 5 years and eventually determined that the Warranty was useless for this particular failure because the symptoms are so marginal. The Dealer was able to argue, in my case, that they are not conclusive. I had cold start issues (white smoke) that I believe are related and will prove to myself this Winter one way or another. Nonetheless, I hope this is helpful information for you.
I was always told that there is no dumb question but I may have one. What is a STC fitting and where is it located on the engine. I am a fair hand with a wrench but these newer electronic diesel engines with there HPOP operated injectors are new to me but I have not one 6.0 but two 6.0 diesel engines. One is in my 2005 Excursion and one in my F350 King Ranch duelie. Thanks.
It stands for snap-to-connect fitting. It connects the HPOP to the branch tubes and is prone to failure. Complicating matters, a leaky STC fitting does not give any external, visual clues. It's all internal to the oil system.
If your going to fix the STC fitting issue, be ready to do a lot of other things while your in there. I say this because the cost of the work is mostly labor. If your doing it yourself, you might say it's you own time, so it doesn't matter. But after doing it, I definitely am glad I did everything at once. I wouldn't say it was real difficult, but it was a time consuming job; one which I don't want to do again for a long, long time.
I did the following:
Rebuilt oil cooler
Replaced EGR cooler with the the one from Bulletproof Diesel
Replaced my water pump
Replaced my serpentine belt
Replaced my dummy plugs and stand pipes
I'm hoping I don't have to open up the engine again for at least 100,000 miles.
I may need some injectors, but this will be a significantly smaller job than what I just did.
You asked what the STC fitting was.....as dieselmac said, it connects the HPOP to the branch tubes, which feed the high pressure oil to your heads, which in turn supplies the injectors. A good way to describe this fitting is to compare it to the fitting on a compressor air hose, only this hose sends 4,000 psi oil to your injectors. It was really silly for International Harvestor to even use this fitting. It's flaky. The repair is to replace the connector, that has this fitting, with a different style connector that doesn't even have the STC connector. The new one is a straight metal pipe.
Ok, so im sure its the stc fitting thats causing my long crank time but is there a sure way to test it without tearing into the motor??? The ford dealership has been working on the truck under warranty but I think they don't want to tear into the motor because its going to be time consuming and there backed up for weeks and don't want to tie up a rack for that long. Another question...I read where the replacement stc fittings are metal....so did international ever use the metal fitting cause my truck was the last year for the 6.0?
Wait a minute...even if the failure symptom is that your high pressure oil system is not reaching the required pressure, there is more than one possible cause for this.
If you want to be reasonably sure, you can temporarily remove the ICP from the passenger side valve cover and connect 'shop air' (air compressed to 80-100 psi) to the ICP port. You need to command the IPR on so it closes, otherwise the air will simply flow back through the valve and into your crank case, giving you inconclusive information. There are a few descriptions of how this is done in the forums. I'm not an expert on doing this test, however, from what I've read, if the leak is coming from the STC fitting it will sound like it is coming from the oil input tube...if it is your stand pipes or dummy plugs you will hear it coming from under the valve covers....more toward the front of the motor.
Like I said, I'm not an expert....just trying to point in the right direction.
I replaced the branch tube fitting (fixes the STC fitting) with the newer one and did both dummy plugs and standpipes as well. It was worth it to me to know that most of the common potential sources of leaks were fixed with the latest improved components. The new stand pipes and dummy plugs have a better o ring system (a spacer that helps improve the sealing pressure), and the new branch tube eliminates the STC fitting entirely.
Last edited by bustedknuckles; 08-31-2011 at 02:52 PM.
I don't know this first hand, however, I think I read on one of the forums that International recalled all their vehicles that used the STC fitting. Ford chose not to do a recall. This was most likely a financial decision that has cost them much embarrassment.
Ok, so finally after 6 trips to the ford dealer and 2 long summer months they fixxed my truck.......the mechanic who finally fixxed my truck only works on saturday and I picked it up on sunday so I didn't get to ask him what he found exactly but the paper work said this the "verified concern, performed diag and found codes p0336, found low ICP after engine warmed up, performed air pressure test and found right side block off tube leaking, replaced and rechecked all ok"
Does anyone know what that code is?
what is low ICP?
what is the right side block off tube?
Another more common name for the block-off tube is the dummy plug.
I just replaced mine with the latest upgraded stand-pipes and dummy plugs. I also fixed the STC fitting (replaced the branch tube with the upgrade, which does not have an STC fitting); I believe my long start, and ultimately, 'No Start Hot' issue was the STC fitting.
In my opinion, if you haven't fixed the STC fitting on your truck your just waiting for it to get bad enough to see symptoms.
My truck takes no more than 1.5 seconds to start, now that it's fixed, whether it's hot or cold. This is what it did new and it's now back to starting reliably again.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
