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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 02-11-2013, 07:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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6.0 or not?

I'm in the market for a F-250 and can't afford a new. I had a 99 with the legendary 7.3 in it and loved it. I need a diesel to pull my work trailer a 12'x7' enclosed trailer filled with lawn equipment. What I'm wanting to know is should I go with a 6.0 or should I go with a 7.3 or 6.4? Just a little lerey on buying a 6.0 because of everything I've been reading on these forums.Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You would probably be money ahead going with a gasser for that light a load. Most folks here stay with gassers for lawn trailers.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Gasser would fine I am sure.

But if you really want a diesel don't be afraid of the 6.0
Read up on bulletproofing one and expect that to be your worst case. Man 6.0's run their life without major problems.

But you should be prepared to bite the bullet if something does go wrong!

7.3 is a great motor, I love my 02 f250 and loved mynol 96 too! But when it was time for an upgrade I could buy a decent mileage 06 truck for the same as an 02 with 200k miles, so I went 6.0 and have loved it! My truck has been far from flawless but I love it sooo much I wouldn't trade it for a newer one.

6.4 can still have issues, plus they are a pita to work on! That's why I like my 6.0, I can still do most projects on it in my garage if needed. I love the 6.4 for power potential however.
I just think best bang for the buck diesel is the 6.0 right now.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm pulling the trailer with a gasser right now and I'm getting 6 to 8 mpgs 10 with the wind behind that's why I'm in the market for a diesel. It sounds like I will give the 6.0 a better look, Thanks.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I just read I put the wrong size on the trailer it's a 7'x18' not 7'x12'.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The 6.4 isn't much different than a 6.0, and has all the same failure points, plus a couple of others. There is a bit more power potential, but unless you're looking to build a world beater you can get as much power as you can practically use with a 6.0. The world's fastest 6.0 truck is about 15 minutes from my house, and I know the owner fairly well. It runs 10.5-10.4 in the 1/4 mile. Think the 6.0 can make decent power?

A 6.0 isn't a bad deal. They have some weaknesses, which can be fixed permanently if you're willing to spend what it takes to do it. Once that's done they are very reliable so long as you maintain them. I do have to disagree that any of them go their life without issue. Once you pass 100k it gets dicey, and 100k is not their life. I fully believe that these motors can go at least 350-500k before an overhaul. Everyone I know has lifted a head in the 70-150k range. Prepare to do what is necessary up front and you can avoid unscheduled downtime, which is killer on a business unless you have a backup truck or two.
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'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If you are serious, then get an oasis report on the truck you like. Have a set of gauges (BEFORE) you drive it, have them ready to go. Check for the factory air-box in place. Check the FICM voltages 48-48.5 volts at ALL times. Have the batts load tested individually and the alt as well. The batts are (critical) for healthy FICM!!! DRIVE THE TRUCK YOU LIKE AND CHECK THE COOLERS. 15 degrees+ apart = bad oil cooler W/ engine at operating temp w/ some wide open throttle runs and @60 mph. Take your time and drive it for an hour or so. You also need to know that the 6.0 is unforgiving if maintenance is neglected. Oem oil/ fuel and air filters should always be used and are critical for the operation of the engine and trans. Batt maintenance is crucial as well and is a major contributor to FICM failure.
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:14 AM   #8 (permalink)
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x2 on that. 100% correct.
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'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, Warren Diesel 175cc injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Got $10k laying around? If yes it's a muscle truck. Otherwise...NOT.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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D79..is "only reason" you need another work truck is for "better mpg"? If so, have you done the math etc. to see if a PSD would be cost effective for you?
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Four different shops around here will do the EGR delete, oil cooler, coolant filter, coolant flush & swap to ELC, while doing head gaskets and studs for between $3,500-$4000. Throw in a 2 year warrantied FICM from FICMRepair.com for $350 and you should be good to go. Certainly not cheap, but $10k? Uh, no sir. If you do the work yourself you can cut that cost down to about $1,000 in parts. I hear about the prices some shops in the country charge for this stuff and its insane. Shop around; there are reasonable shops out there that do first rate work.
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'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, Warren Diesel 175cc injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TKOPerformance View Post
Four different shops around here will do the EGR delete, oil cooler, coolant filter, coolant flush & swap to ELC, while doing head gaskets and studs for between $3,500-$4000. Throw in a 2 year warrantied FICM from FICMRepair.com for $350 and you should be good to go. Certainly not cheap, but $10k? Uh, no sir. If you do the work yourself you can cut that cost down to about $1,000 in parts. I hear about the prices some shops in the country charge for this stuff and its insane. Shop around; there are reasonable shops out there that do first rate work.
If I could pick up a good clean 6.0 for a bargain and had a shop like the ones near you, I wouldn't mind investing a few grand to make it reliable. A friend of mine says he spent somewhere around $30K on his old 6.0. Apparently he had trouble with his before they really knew what it took to solve the problems and had many repairs done over again. Not sure what year his was but he got rid of it and bought a new 2010 6.4. He wishes he had waited until the 2011's came out.
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K&N Cold Air, Magnaflow Exhaust, MSD Ignition,
LS7 clutch, Getrag 3:73 posi-trac, 377 RWHP
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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That would be $10K for a lot more work he's gonna need. A lot more....
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Old 02-14-2013, 09:55 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Duf79 - I just sent you a PM concerning a F250 for sale
thanks,
D
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:59 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I wouldn't rush off to buy a 6.7 yet either. They have only been out a few years, and while initial reliability seems good; time will tell. Remember that the 6.0 seemed great at first, then people started having problems. I'll bet there are a handful of 6.7s out there with over 100k on them, but probably not many. These things need to be used and abused for a while before we go along with Ford claiming that they've finally solved their Diesel problems. The 6.7 has a lot more complexity to it too, and that in my experience is never a good thing. Reliability comes from simplicity. The 6.0 is too complicated in stock form, so I don't see adding more emissions stuff and other things that can fail as a step forward. Think about it, best Diesel offered in a light duty truck? 5.9 Cummins 12v with a P-pump. 100% mechanical, easy to work on, easy to tune, and cheap for a Diesel. Emissions were that engine's only issue, otherwise Dodge would still run them.

I'd love to know what specifically over and above what I've noted for bulletproofing would need to be addressed. Three large Diesel service shops around here who work on a lot of 6.0s all seem to agree that once you take those steps the problems stop. Injectors can wear out, as can other things, but that can happen on any Diesel. Ask anyone who really knows about Diesels and they'll tell you that injectors makes a major difference in how a Diesel runs and they usually last 100-150k. They may go longer before outright failure, but to keep a Diesel running smooth you're going to want to swap injectors somewhere in that time frame. Yep, they're pricey, but what on a Diesel is cheap? Frankly I don't chalk that up to failure, that's maintenance.
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'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, Warren Diesel 175cc injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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