6.0 Oil in the Coolant - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 11-28-2010, 11:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question 6.0 Oil in the Coolant

Ok, I've read several threads close to what I am seeing, but lets see what you guys say. I purchased a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 diesel. The truck had been running fine. I drove it 400 miles the day I bought it, and it had no problems for the first week. It didn't shake, or rough idle when it was cold like many that I have read about. It did however blow a single puff of white smoke when starting cold. 7 days after I bought it I cranked it and drove about 10 miles down the road when I smelled oil. I pulled over, and found oil, coolant and steam coming out of the radiator fill cap. The temp gauges never showed that it was overheating and the truck was running fine. No missing, or anything like that. The tail pipe had no steam and no smoke coming from it like it does when a head gasket blows. The oil in the pan is clean and looks like new. Is this the EGR cooler that I have been reading about, and what all am I going to have to do to fix this once and for all?
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Old 11-29-2010, 03:21 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Unfortunately, it sounds like your oil cooler has ruptured, letting oil into the coolant. Don't drive it until it's fixed. You will need to replace the oil cooler and EGR cooler, then flush the cooling system per TSB 08-23-1. Here is a link to the TSB:

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ap...sb08-23-01.pdf

If that link gets blocked by this site or something just Google Ford TSB 08-23-1 for instructions on the procedure.

As for a "once and for all" fix, the only guaranteed fix is to replace the stock oil and EGR coolers with Bulletproof oil and EGR coolers, or delete the EGR cooler entirely. The Bulletproof oil cooler replaces the OEM unit with an external cooler. It's expensive.

A cheaper alternative is to stay with the OEM oil cooler and add either a Bulletproof EGR cooler, or delete the EGR cooler entirely. (The Bulletproof EGR cooler is built like a tank. I bought one and by the looks of it I don't think it will ever rupture.) Once your cooling system is thoroughly cleaned out, add a Dieselsite coolant filter to help keep it clean. Flush the system and replace the coolant frequently (e.g., once every year or two). Make sure your oil stays clean by changing it every 5k or less and using only Racor-made oil filters so that the oil side of the cooler doesn't get plugged.
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Old 11-29-2010, 10:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks a million. I appreciate the knowledge.
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I just heard back from the dealership. They are telling me that the EGR cooler is bad, but the oil cooler is ok. They are telling me that it is going to cost 5300, to flush the engine, replace the EGR, radiator, radiator hoses, and reservoir. I feel confident that I can replace the radiator and all of that, I'm not sure on the EGR cooler. Is it located under the intake manifold? And by any chance do you have a copy of Workshop Manual, Section 303-01C. I am not a mechanic, and have never worked on a diesel. Am I about to bite off more than I can chew?
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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First off 5300 is outrageous. I may be mistaken but I think the only place that the oil can mix with coolant is in the oil cooler. I would take the truck somewhere else. When mine went I did not change radiator just ran some simple green drained and repeated the process. Just change both EGR and oil cooler at the same time. Seems that a bad Oil will take out the EGR cooler.
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I just purchased a truck that the previous owner traded in and I actually was able to locate him and he sent me receipts of work done by a Ford dealer. New turbo, egr cooler, oil cooler, including full flush of the system, fuel incidentals (intercooler hose at turbo, etc) and original diagnosis of problem. Nothing under warranty and bill was around $3700. They are CARAZY!! at $5300
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Old 12-01-2010, 11:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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$5300 is outrageous! I got a bid for black onyx headgaskets/arp studs/egr delete/oil cooler/coolant flush/oil change for a grand total of $3,300. Omg that dealer is out of there minds!
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Old 12-02-2010, 06:21 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Dude, go someplace else your bound to get a better price. I had oil and egr coolers replaced in my van for ~4500 which included new radiator and heater hoses and serpentine belt (since they had it all apart) and a free oil change. Plus, it's more labor hours in the vans b/c of the tight fit. From what I've read, most folks are paying around 3500 at a dealership for this repair.

Good luck
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Old 12-02-2010, 07:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Snacks, if the oil cooler isn't bad, then how does the dealer think the oil is getting into the cooling system? Considering that question, and the fact that most EGR failures are due to oil cooler restriction, and given their price quote for the repair, I would be running away from that dealer if it were my truck.

The repair is fairly involved, but is doable by us mere mortals (non-diesel techs) if you have the proper tools and preservere. You basically have to take the top of the engine apart. Turbo, CAC elbow, intake manifold, injector harness, etc all need to come off. Then you can take out the EGR and oil coolers. PM DieselStop member named Bismic and he will send you all the instructions.
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:20 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I had heads milled, ARP studs, Bulletproof cooler, new fan clutch, serpentine belt, radiator, all hoses and a new coolant bottle done by the local diesel shop for $5700. You can get basically a solid engine for the money they want for an EGR. I would ask around for the best 6.0 shop in your town and get the job done right.
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Old 12-03-2010, 01:09 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Wow, that got a huge response!!! I went on Bulletproof's website, and found their closest recomended dealer. He told me that they were full of S#$T. He is saying that he will replace the oil cooler, and egr cooler for around $2500.00. Oh by the way did I tell you that they were charging $780.00 for the Motorcraft EGR cooler. Needless to say I'm going to pick my truck up tomorrow and taking it to him. Hell he is telling me that for 8500 he could replace the engine, with all bulletproof equipment and give me a 5 year 100,000 mile waranty on the engine, parts and labor. Anyone out there in the Shreveport La. area be warned Roundtree Ford is robbing people.
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Old 12-03-2010, 05:34 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Yeah that sounds like a bad experience right there. An improper diagnosis and the price is out of line. Way out of line and this is coming from a dealer technician. The oil cooler is as everyone stated, bad. I just want to be sure that you understand that when the cooling system is contaminated with oil ALL of the rubber hoses, the thermostat and the pressure cap should also be replaced once the system is flushed clean. The oil damages the rubber and in time the hoses will soften and swell. If you are not going to do that due to budgetary constraints at the very least replace the t-stat and pressure cap.
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:52 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Yeah, I will replace all of the hoses. The dealership is wanting me to replace pretty much everything. Radiator, degas bottle, hoses. I will probably go a head and do that just to be on the safe side.
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Old 02-22-2011, 09:51 PM   #14 (permalink)
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hello , i just bought a 2005 ford f350, when i went to pick up and pay i notice the coolant reservoir had two holes, but i thought may be easy to get a new one and replace, but then i found that the coolant reservoir had diesel on it, i start looking for an answer but some say may be the head gasket and some other say may be the inyectors cups. can some one help me.
and i found at youtube a video how of to test the head gasket , but this guy use a 30 psi gauge to test it, how i found how is the average and the type of measurement.
thanks
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Old 02-22-2011, 10:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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There is video somewhere that shows why you may have diesel in the coolant. If I remember correctly you must have a cracked injector cup AND and cracked head for it to happen.
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