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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 11-06-2011, 10:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation 6.0 powerstroke missing

yesterday while riding in town my f250 started to miss like a gas engine would with bad spark plugs i was thinkin it would be the injectors i brought it to the auto parts store to scan the codes and it came up #1 cylinder glow plug circuit and #8 cylinder glow plug circuit can the glow plugs be a reason for my truck to miss????
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Old 11-06-2011, 10:47 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If it is missing that badly, there should be a contribution code for missing cylinder. Glow plug won't make it miss when warm. There is something else going on.
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Old 11-06-2011, 10:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
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like it still has power still getting good turbo pressure j missing badly truck shakes at idle and when i take off
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Old 11-08-2011, 11:41 AM   #4 (permalink)
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So no codes about injectors? Hopefully someone with experience will chime in.
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Old 11-08-2011, 11:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
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What year truck Lance and how many miles? Also what is the filter/oil- fuel maintenance history? Is there any white smoke? Could be a number of things at play here, could be bad fuel filters, or other things as well. How long have you owned the truck? b
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You need to get a quality scan tool that will retrieve ford specific codes. The cheapy scanner there using at the parts store most likely won't retrieve ford specific codes. If is is missing, there other codes stored besides glow plug codes. Find out what the other codes are, or shoot from the hip....its your money.
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I have a 2004 Excursion 6.0L with 135,000 miles that has the same problem. Pulled the codes using AE with the Ford package and the only code I had was the Glow Plug Control Module fault. I replaced that but the truck is still doing it. It's so bad now that when it's down in the low 20's like last night, the truck will barely start and will hardly get out of the driveway. Three miles down the road at highway speeds and it pretty much clears up, but the fuel mileage is down considerably.

Still no cylinder codes. I can also now feel the misfire when traveling at highway speeds with the T/C locked up. With the truck in park and depressing the pedal to about 2500 rpm's it runs real rough for about two seconds then suddenly clears up and takes off to about 3200 rpms without moving the pedal - foot locked to the floor. Still no codes.

Seems like a plugged nozzle on an injector or two or three perhaps? With the crap they are passing off as fuel nowadays I suppose it's possible.

Any ideas? I don't have any extra income right now to start buying new injectors.

Thanks,
Rich
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:33 PM   #8 (permalink)
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sounds to me like ficm. check the voltage and it should never ever get below like 45v. it should stay around 47-48v. if its bad, remove it and call either ed at ficmrepair.com or swamps diesel. also, get something like the scangauge2 or edge cs/cts to monitor ficm voltage and hp oil system. that can cause rough running.
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks Joe.

I just ran the engine under various conditions and I did in fact monitor the FICM voltage. It ran consistently between 45.5 volts and 43.5 volts. It was fluctuating with the vehicle voltage, but other than that it was pretty consistent.

I just ordered the blue spring kit from Tousley and I'll get that installed when it comes.

Added some Stanadyne Performance to the fuel tank.

I dropped each cylinder one at a time while monitoring the Engine RPM's and didn't notice a marked difference between each cylinder.

Thanks,
Rich
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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One other bit of information that may or may not be relevant.

I've always run Shell Rotella 15W-40 since the truck was new. About two months ago I changed the oil to Mobil Delvac 15W-40 and the truck seemed to really like it at first. The symptoms have been rapidly getting worse though starting after about 1,500 miles on the oil.

Rich
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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hey lance10587
Mine is doing the same thing, I will check for codes tomorrow. I will most likely do fuel filters at the same time.
Mine starts fine when cold and idles well for 4-5 minutes then it starts to act up. If I put it in drive and stay on the brakes it feels like it's going to stall, then I loose TPS response.
Just asking if it's a bad golw plug circuit or bad injector would it start and idle well when cold?
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Thanks Joe.

I just ran the engine under various conditions and I did in fact monitor the FICM voltage. It ran consistently between 45.5 volts and 43.5 volts. It was fluctuating with the vehicle voltage, but other than that it was pretty consistent.

I just ordered the blue spring kit from Tousley and I'll get that installed when it comes.

Added some Stanadyne Performance to the fuel tank.

I dropped each cylinder one at a time while monitoring the Engine RPM's and didn't notice a marked difference between each cylinder.

Thanks,
Rich
Anything below 45v and your FICM is out of spec. You'll need to get it repaired or replaced.

And if you have ~43v's while driving around, I bet your voltages are really low on a cold crank and first several minutes of idling.

This might not be the ultimate fix, but before diagnosing any injector problems, you need to have a properly functioning FICM.
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Old 12-13-2011, 03:14 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks DieselMac. Looks like I'll have to save up some money to have it rebuilt. I checked out FICMrepairs website. Does anyone know if there is a big difference between his standard rebuild and the $325.00 one besides the 2 year warranty and the "upgraded parts"?
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Old 12-13-2011, 03:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
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And if you have ~43v's while driving around, I bet your voltages are really low on a cold crank and first several minutes of idling.
I'll have to throw the AE on it tomorrow morning when it's cold and see what I get with the glow plugs going. Batteries are good, less than a year old and hold a good charge, so that's not it.

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Old 12-17-2011, 01:14 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Until mine gets to operating temp, in od with the conv locked it misses so bad everything inside rattles from the violent shaking. Guess im going to check ficm volts and report back.
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