6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
I have a 2004 Powerstroke 6.0 with 74,000 miles on it. The head gasket has blown (head bolt failure) and the EGR system is bad too. I am having the head bolts replaced with ARP aftermarket units and I am going with the EGR delete as that is what my mechanic recommended.
I am looking for input as to whether or not I can expect this engine to be reliable now that these two issues have been addressed. I maintain the engine well (or at least I think I do). I change the oil with 15W40 Rotella T every 6500 miles (or less) and I use Motorcraft oil filters.
Are there any other things I should do to lessen my chance of additional problems?
I have considered "chipping" the engine to increase the fuel mileage when towing a "toy hauler". I am concerned that this will adversely affect performance. Do the "Bully Dog", Banks, and other systems cause problems when used to increase mileage?
You don't get better fuel mileage with a chip or tuner you still need to be careful with it when your pulling a load. we here every day of head gaskets blow twice and it's mostly because the heads were not sent to the machine shop. they need to be check at the machine shop and not on the mechanics work bench with a strait edge and feeler gauge. they should be milled to a maximum of .008 You never take a head of and just put in back on with out machining it
2004 F250 6.0 PSD every day work truck
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3000 watt inverter keeps drill batteries charged
4" tubo back MBRP cool duals
CFM+ intake elbow / Airaid cold air intake
SCT X3 from innovative diesel
Coolant Filter / Amsoil by-pass system
Fluidampr / 200 amp alternator
ARP head bolts / Black onyx head gaskets
185cc Injectors 70hp+ / stock turbo
stage 1 fuel lines / cross over with fixed orifice
58 volt FIMC mod from swamps diesel
Airdog 2 with in tank fuel module upgrade Mag-Hytec Diff. and trans. covers
Aluminum degas tank
You still need gauges. It is important to watch the following (at aminimum)
oil temp (the coolant going through the oil cooler can sometimes plug up)
coolant temp (always important to know this, but a little less important w/ a proper EGR delete)
boost (turbos can sometimes stick)
fuel pressure (never less than 45 psig or you can damage injectors)
In terms of gauges, I have heard good things about the Insight "Edge" gauges. From what I can tell, you plug them into the OBD and they work rather than having to plumb a variety of different things. Are the Insight Edge gauges a good way to go? I looked at their website. There are a variety of options. Anyone have any suggestions?
I've seen coolant filters mentioned a few times too. Are they used to make sure the oil cooler does not plug up? Who makes the best one?
I looked at the STC website. I am not sure which system to get. Primarily I am looking for a system that will help with towing a 10,000 lb + toy hauler. I would also like to get better milage when not towing. Occassionally it might be fun to increase performance, but that is not the main intent. Any suggestions on which system would be appreciated.
While I am not looking to spend a ton of money, I'd rather make an investment in my existing truck that will keep me from purchasing a different vehicle.
Last edited by erikjohnnelson; 07-10-2011 at 12:20 AM.
Using an electronic monitor (through the OBD2) is definitely the way to go. Much simpler than installing analogs and many more variables available to monitor. If you want to go with an Edge, look at the CS or CTS. You might also consider the ScanGauge2. You can pick it up for $159 on Amazon and, IMO, trumps the Edge in versatility. It's definitely a function over form device, though. Just a little black box.
2006 F-250 PSD, Lariat
Mods: All the usual stuff
"Let us endeavor so to live that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry" - Mark Twain
You never take a head of and just put in back on with out machining it
I disagree with you. the trick is to have them checked with the right tools. I have a machinist straight edge (32") and I will check any head that I remove. If it meets tolerances then I will put it back on the engine with the proper prep. Machining isn't a given in every case CHECKING is!!! FWIW I do 5 different angle end to end measurements.
Haven't had a failure due to installing an out of tolerance head yet. (37+ yrs and counting)
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Thanks for the input Chuckster. I have had serious heartburn thinking about whether or not my mechanic had the heads machined or not. I can't check as it is the weekend. I am not even sure if he has the engine opened up yet or not but I will request he check as you have described when I talk with him Monday morning.
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