6.0 runs rough when cold - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 06-07-2011, 03:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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6.0 runs rough when cold

Hello, I am new to the forum because I am out of ideas for my 03 6.0. Upon starting cold, by cold I mean ambient temp. or not full operating temp. it runs like a gas engine with crossed plug wires. Skipping and misfiring, no smoke to speak of, mabe a hint of blue or white, cant really tell. When engine and transmission temp. guages read normal temp. its seems fine. Fuel economy is poor, about 12mpg. Already been down the road with egr's and changing filters, and replaced #5 injector. Any other suggestions?
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fisherman316 View Post
Hello, I am new to the forum because I am out of ideas for my 03 6.0. Upon starting cold, by cold I mean ambient temp. or not full operating temp. it runs like a gas engine with crossed plug wires. Skipping and misfiring, no smoke to speak of, mabe a hint of blue or white, cant really tell. When engine and transmission temp. guages read normal temp. its seems fine. Fuel economy is poor, about 12mpg. Already been down the road with egr's and changing filters, and replaced #5 injector. Any other suggestions?
Welcome
I would have the batteries load tested, and if the are weak or bad change because they will kill the FICM here is the check
also Syn oil and only Ford filters (oil-fuel-trans-air) and maybe some
http://revxoil.com/ they say it works to help injectors run cetane boost in the fuel also.
2 stroker
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Is most likely Injector stiction like 2 stroke said run some Rev-x thru the oil side of the injectors and it should clear it up. Youve got build up of varnish on the oil side of the injector thats causing the plunger to stutter for lack of a better term. It throws the timing of fuel delivery off and creates what sounds like missing. Ive got the same issue will be running rev x thru tomorrow. Do the batt test and ficm test too, I just replaced my ficm and resolved some issues. Ill post my results. hope this is it for mine.
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I truly appreciate the help guys. I think my batts are ok, gona try the ficm test with a volt meter today or tomorrow. As for the Rev-x no one sells it locally, but gona try to order some. I was also told to "NOT" use Rotella, but Motorcraft. Is 15-40 still ok or different grade?
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Old 06-09-2011, 03:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Who says not to run Rotella?
That is just the most popular full synthetic oil around.
I use the full sythetic Rotella 5W40 year round. Motorcraft 15-w40 could be the source of your injector stiction issue (if it is a "dino" oil) I don't know if it is a syn or not, because I have never used it.

"Dino" oil has varnish in it that synthetic oils don't. If you have ever looked inside an engine that has always used the "dino" oil and saw the brown/tan film on all the parts, that is what we are talking about. That is the gunk that is stuck to the metal in your injector actuators/piston bore.
Get rid of the dino oil, run full synthetic. I recommend Rotella Full Synthetic 5W40, unless your climate regularly sees temperatures in excess of 100F. If you do see that kind of heat, you need to find a full synthetic 15W40. Whichever oil you need to run, for the first time you start running the rev-x, dump in two bottles as part of your oil fill when you change the oil. Subsequent oil changes you can add one.
If you caught this soon enough, believe it or not, that stuff has worked for many.

NEXT:
To properly diagnose FICM issues you can not assume anything about your batteries.
Remove the batteries and have them load tested first.
Then place each battery on a charger, get them to full charge.
Then check your FICM as described above.
Reason? You could have a bad cell (or 2) and NEVER even know it. Judging them by turning the truck over is a bad idea. I had a dead cell in both batteries and my truck turned over very fast. Didn't start but it sounded good.
Even if the batteries are relatively new, checking them costs nothing but some of your time, and it will also force you to check the condition of the battery connections.
Test your FICM without doing those two important steps may result in replacing a healthy FICM and still having battery issues. Those battery issues may eat your new FICM.

Last edited by ex mounty; 06-09-2011 at 10:26 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 06-09-2011, 10:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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two bottles of rev-x not 2 quarts. i think?
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Old 06-09-2011, 10:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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DOH! typo, My apologies.
Fixed that, Thank you

Last edited by ex mounty; 06-09-2011 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:10 AM   #8 (permalink)
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i cringe to think what 2 quarts would cost that would be enough to really clean the ol girl right out. clean as a big dose of castor oil
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Old 06-14-2011, 11:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Ok, ordered the Rev-x, gona give it a try. FICM and batteries ok. Rev-x rep. said that using conventional Rotella T 15-40 would be fine. Not sure about that according to what I've been hearing from you guys. How about Mobil 1 diesel truck oil?
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Old 06-14-2011, 12:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Fisherman;
You want to run a full synthetic oil, period. End of discussion. Disregard salesmen that do not own the truck you do.

Full synthetic 5W40 is recommended if you live in a climate that does not see 100F on a regular basis.
If you live in a climate that regularly sees above 100F, run a full synthetic 15W40.

Many members (myself included) run the Rotella T6 (5W40) that you can get at Walmart.
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Old 07-05-2011, 02:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Just updating the guys who helped me out. Let me sing the praises of Rev-x! Unbelievable product. I was skeptical, but it worked. I changed oil from standard Rotella to Rotella T-6, added the Rev-x and immediately left my shop at full throttle, ran it as hard as I could get away with on back roads and then hit the interstate, brought it home, parked overnight. The next morning when I fired it up, Holy Crap!!!! Ran like brand new! Not sure if its the full syn oil or the additive, but I love my 6.0 again.
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Old 07-05-2011, 02:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Rev x does work, Id bet dimes to donuts most rough running symptoms are easily fixable with this product. Made a huge difference for me too.
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03 F350 6.0 XLT Lariat Born 12/21/02 Crew cab short box loaded to the nuts
Autometer Guages - Pyro, Boost, Tranny, Oil Temp, Oil pressure,F & R Diff Temp,Voltage, Fuel & HPOP
Custom dash mods to clear up clutter ontop and eliminate blind spot at A pillar
Edge juice w/ attitude ( unlocked)
Banks Intercooler, Hi ram intake n tubes
Twin Optima yellow tops
BD 5" exhaust
Snow Performance Water/Methanol injection w 7 gallon tank (water only)
EGR Delete Kit
Silverline twin 8" slash cut stacks
New stock Ford Hpop
New stock Ford oil cooler (waiting for BD's version of remote cooler filter kit)
Garrett Powermax GT3788VA Turbo
Airaid cold air intake
Zoodad mod
10.5 " Procomp lift (really 8.5 w some mods)
42" good year wranglers w Kevlar sidewalls
5" Bushwacker cut out Flares
Goodhood Dual ram air fiberglass hood from US body
90 F250 Extended cab long box 460 auto
57 Mercury stepside
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