Join Date: Sep 2010
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Who says not to run Rotella?
That is just the most popular full synthetic oil around.
I use the full sythetic Rotella 5W40 year round. Motorcraft 15-w40 could be the source of your injector stiction issue (if it is a "dino" oil) I don't know if it is a syn or not, because I have never used it.
"Dino" oil has varnish in it that synthetic oils don't. If you have ever looked inside an engine that has always used the "dino" oil and saw the brown/tan film on all the parts, that is what we are talking about. That is the gunk that is stuck to the metal in your injector actuators/piston bore.
Get rid of the dino oil, run full synthetic. I recommend Rotella Full Synthetic 5W40, unless your climate regularly sees temperatures in excess of 100°F. If you do see that kind of heat, you need to find a full synthetic 15W40. Whichever oil you need to run, for the first time you start running the rev-x, dump in two bottles as part of your oil fill when you change the oil. Subsequent oil changes you can add one.
If you caught this soon enough, believe it or not, that stuff has worked for many.
To properly diagnose FICM issues you can not assume anything about your batteries.
Remove the batteries and have them load tested first.
Then place each battery on a charger, get them to full charge.
Then check your FICM as described above.
Reason? You could have a bad cell (or 2) and NEVER even know it. Judging them by turning the truck over is a bad idea. I had a dead cell in both batteries and my truck turned over very fast. Didn't start but it sounded good.
Even if the batteries are relatively new, checking them costs nothing but some of your time, and it will also force you to check the condition of the battery connections.
Test your FICM without doing those two important steps may result in replacing a healthy FICM and still having battery issues. Those battery issues may eat your new FICM.
Last edited by ex mounty; 06-09-2011 at 09:26 PM.