Well my 2004 is having the notorious no start when warm. Starts fine after it has been sitting for awhile. Ficm sync is good, ficm voltage doesn't drop below 47.5, ipr maxes out at 84.7 when warm and icp won't go above 300 when warm. Replaced the ipr valve with no avail. Just did a leak test in the icp port, could hear some decent air out Of the oil fill but once I commanded the ipr closed absolutely nothing. Listened on the drivers side as well and nothing. Would this be indicative of my hpop going out or could there be a leak that I don't hear? Oh and now even when it is cold it won't fire, I guess that could be I need to prime the system since the air pushed all of the oil out...can't do it now since batteries are drained and currently on charge. Thanks in advance!
Got it fired up this morning after cranking for awhile. Ran for an hr, shut it off and wouldn't fire back up. Won't build above 300 psi until cool, then take awhile to crank but fires
I hate to say it, but if you truly don't have any leaks, then it sounds like the HPOP. The adrenaline pump is a better choice than the OEM, but there are several posts about the o-rings that come with the Adrenaline not being as good as OEM.
Just remember, it takes awhile for the oil to be displaced when you have a small leak. You have to leave the air pressure on it for awhile.
That is what I was thinking. I had the air on for probably 10-15min but was turning the ipr off after 2 min or so as I thought you could only apply voltage for so long.
One more test (in addition to the things we discussed).
Try starting it on a downslope (nose of the truck below level as much as possible).
This is a test for:
1. failed o-ring at the pump side feed circuit (o-ring from pump to block) or
2. a failed high pressure pump allowing fluid to leak past it while its not running
This is one of the "less common" early HPOP failure modes.
I had this exact problem last summer. Have you tried replacing your ICP sensor and pigtail? I changed that last after months of researching and digging and truck has not had a problem since. I changed mine to the updated black tail ICP as opposed to the sometimes recommended 03' tan tail....just a thought.
(I also tried unplugging the ICP and mine still wouldn't fire up when hot. But for whatever reason...once I changed the ICP as stated, and cleaned the EGR valve really well, I haven't had a problem since.
Hmm I did replace the icp but no change. Didn't think about the connector because it looked fine. Is your icp on the hpop or on the passenger valve cover?
just dealt with the same issue. once hot, i couldn't build more than 300psi until it sat for usually an hour -- needed oil temps to drop to below 170.
tried air test, but it really wasn't conclusive until i got the valve covers off. no surprise, it was the dummy plugs. both of them were bad, one of them had a completely shot o-ring.
swapped them out and it has fired right up ever since.
Attached is a great video from Diesel Tech Ron that has most of what we discussed - in greater detail!
The 1" vertical height is correct on the OEM oil filter (in the video and I measured it after we talked). Sounds like you are OK there.
The video also talks about how to check the LPOP regulator spring (which we didn't discuss and probable isn't necessary until you get start seriously suspecting low base oil pressure).
Regarding my earlier post about "nose down", you can simulate that by jacking up the rear end.
Lastly, dieselnoob1 has experienced what we discussed (pressure checking with the valve covers off).
Here is the way to get manual oil pressure gauge on the oil cooler test port. You can also remove the oil pressure sensor and add in a manual gauge there. I do think that pressure testing with the valve covers off is a better bet though!
Well pulled the valve covers last night and pretty sure I could hear a leak on the drivers side, need to get a 10mm Allen to pull the dummy plugs. Sounds like it is below the rail so my guess is injector or the nipple cups. Any idea how I can pinpoint which exactly it is with the rail off?
Thanks everyone for the help, I will keep you updated.
The new ones have a teflon ring that is supposed to keep the o-ring from splitting.
Could it be the standpipes? Or since you say you hear it drivers side, even possibly the plug on the oil rail where the ICP goes when the rail is used on the pass side?
If you're saying it sounds below the rail I suppose it could still be one of the plugs or standpipes since they have o-rings at the bottom as well.... I've watched so much diesel ron lately (RIP) and he was pretty adamant that the ford injectors wouldn't leak and would usually not suspect them unless they had been replaced.
Well pulled the oil rail off and there was a snap ring just sitting on top of the #4 injector. That's also where it sounded like the leak was coming from. Thoughts?
I just got done going through the no hot start in my truck, replaced ICP, then had to tear it apart and do the STC fitting on the HPOP, now it runs and starts all the time great.
This leak is driving me nuts. Replaced all injector orings and ball cup orings and the leak still persists on the drivers side. Sounds like it is coming near #4 injector which I found some oil coming out of this plug after I took the rail off for the 3rd time. Took the plug out and the seal is basically flush with the plug. Could this be it? If so do they sell a replacement seal or plug?
Well after talking to ford and a bunch of different places they said that I would need a whole new oil rail because that was a proprietary oring and nothing off the shelf would work. I found one at a local shop that was close and sure enough it solved my problem. Fires up perfect when warm. Thanks bismic and everyone else for the help and direction!
That acoustic attenuator plug and gasket being "proprietary" disappointed me, but glad a local shop could help you. It is just ridiculous to think that Ford would make you buy a whole new rail!
"acoustic attenuator plug" OK, so I know where it is, what noise does it attenuate?
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