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6.0L no start hot, with no leaks

57K views 35 replies 8 participants last post by  Oilfielddiesel22 
#1 ·
Well my 2004 is having the notorious no start when warm. Starts fine after it has been sitting for awhile. Ficm sync is good, ficm voltage doesn't drop below 47.5, ipr maxes out at 84.7 when warm and icp won't go above 300 when warm. Replaced the ipr valve with no avail. Just did a leak test in the icp port, could hear some decent air out Of the oil fill but once I commanded the ipr closed absolutely nothing. Listened on the drivers side as well and nothing. Would this be indicative of my hpop going out or could there be a leak that I don't hear? Oh and now even when it is cold it won't fire, I guess that could be I need to prime the system since the air pushed all of the oil out...can't do it now since batteries are drained and currently on charge. Thanks in advance!
 
#2 ·
What pressure air did you use?

Is your ICP on the passenger valve cover or under the turbo?
 
#4 ·
How much cranking did you do to purge the air out?
 
#6 ·
I hate to say it, but if you truly don't have any leaks, then it sounds like the HPOP. The adrenaline pump is a better choice than the OEM, but there are several posts about the o-rings that come with the Adrenaline not being as good as OEM.

Just remember, it takes awhile for the oil to be displaced when you have a small leak. You have to leave the air pressure on it for awhile.
 
#8 ·
Hey Tim -

One more test (in addition to the things we discussed).

Try starting it on a downslope (nose of the truck below level as much as possible).

This is a test for:
1. failed o-ring at the pump side feed circuit (o-ring from pump to block) or
2. a failed high pressure pump allowing fluid to leak past it while its not running

This is one of the "less common" early HPOP failure modes.
 
#9 ·
I had this exact problem last summer. Have you tried replacing your ICP sensor and pigtail? I changed that last after months of researching and digging and truck has not had a problem since. I changed mine to the updated black tail ICP as opposed to the sometimes recommended 03' tan tail....just a thought.

(I also tried unplugging the ICP and mine still wouldn't fire up when hot. But for whatever reason...once I changed the ICP as stated, and cleaned the EGR valve really well, I haven't had a problem since.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#11 ·
same problem



just dealt with the same issue. once hot, i couldn't build more than 300psi until it sat for usually an hour -- needed oil temps to drop to below 170.

tried air test, but it really wasn't conclusive until i got the valve covers off. no surprise, it was the dummy plugs. both of them were bad, one of them had a completely shot o-ring.

swapped them out and it has fired right up ever since.
 
#13 ·
i had the valve covers off when I did it, and the air leak was really faint. i'm not sure i would have heard it w/ the covers on.


if you've got the covers off might as well pull the dummy plugs and replace. I got OEM ford updated ones on eBay for like $25/pair.
 
#16 ·
Attached is a great video from Diesel Tech Ron that has most of what we discussed - in greater detail!

The 1" vertical height is correct on the OEM oil filter (in the video and I measured it after we talked). Sounds like you are OK there.

The video also talks about how to check the LPOP regulator spring (which we didn't discuss and probable isn't necessary until you get start seriously suspecting low base oil pressure).

Regarding my earlier post about "nose down", you can simulate that by jacking up the rear end.

Lastly, dieselnoob1 has experienced what we discussed (pressure checking with the valve covers off).

 
#17 · (Edited)
#19 ·
Well pulled the valve covers last night and pretty sure I could hear a leak on the drivers side, need to get a 10mm Allen to pull the dummy plugs. Sounds like it is below the rail so my guess is injector or the nipple cups. Any idea how I can pinpoint which exactly it is with the rail off?

Thanks everyone for the help, I will keep you updated.
 
#21 ·
The new ones have a teflon ring that is supposed to keep the o-ring from splitting.

Could it be the standpipes? Or since you say you hear it drivers side, even possibly the plug on the oil rail where the ICP goes when the rail is used on the pass side?

If you're saying it sounds below the rail I suppose it could still be one of the plugs or standpipes since they have o-rings at the bottom as well.... I've watched so much diesel ron lately (RIP) and he was pretty adamant that the ford injectors wouldn't leak and would usually not suspect them unless they had been replaced.
 
#23 ·
I think you may have found the problem. Repeat the air test after repairing it!
 
#26 ·
I just got done going through the no hot start in my truck, replaced ICP, then had to tear it apart and do the STC fitting on the HPOP, now it runs and starts all the time great.
 
#27 ·
This leak is driving me nuts. Replaced all injector orings and ball cup orings and the leak still persists on the drivers side. Sounds like it is coming near #4 injector which I found some oil coming out of this plug after I took the rail off for the 3rd time. Took the plug out and the seal is basically flush with the plug. Could this be it? If so do they sell a replacement seal or plug?
 

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#28 ·
Sent you a few PMs.
 
#29 ·
Well after talking to ford and a bunch of different places they said that I would need a whole new oil rail because that was a proprietary oring and nothing off the shelf would work. I found one at a local shop that was close and sure enough it solved my problem. Fires up perfect when warm. Thanks bismic and everyone else for the help and direction!
 
#30 ·
Thanks for posting the solution!

That acoustic attenuator plug and gasket being "proprietary" disappointed me, but glad a local shop could help you. It is just ridiculous to think that Ford would make you buy a whole new rail!

Glad it is running well!
 
#31 ·
"acoustic attenuator plug" OK, so I know where it is, what noise does it attenuate?
 
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