6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
Can someone tell me what page in the Ford owner's manual this mixing of 2-Cycle oil is on? I want to make sure I put the correct amount in according to Ford guidelines
It's not there. Ford only supports the use of Heavy Sewing Machine Oil at the recommended ratio. 2-Cycle is only recommended in the tranny.
I can't believe these threads can actually be serious.....
__________________ 2004 EB Excursion, 4x4, 6.0, Magnaflow Exhaust, Isspro Gauges in an under cubby pod, Fumoto, V code front springs, Revo 285's and bubba lights
"Treat me good, I'll treat you better; treat me bad, I'll treat you worse." - Sonny Barger
Can someone tell me what page in the Ford owner's manual this mixing of 2-Cycle oil is on? I want to make sure I put the correct amount in according to Ford guidelines
While your looking around that manual, see what Ford thinks is the best way to replace the lost lubricity that the fuel system needs when all manufacturers KNEW years in advance that fuel would go from 500PPM sulfur content to 15 PPM. It should be listed under "Abnormal wear and tear."
While your looking around that manual, see what Ford thinks is the best way to replace the lost lubricity that the fuel system needs when all manufacturers KNEW years in advance that fuel would go from 500PPM sulfur content to 15 PPM. It should be listed under "Abnormal wear and tear."
Probably why FORD labeled their own anti-gel, lubricity, cetane boost product; NOT 2-CYCLE OIL!!! And I agree, people make different decisions and we are here to help each other, BUT, that should also include informing people when they are about to crater their warranty or use an UN-SCIENTIFIC solution. The lubricity products have all been tested by professionals, including the mixing ratio; not a "trial and error" approach to adding something to a VERY expensive engine.
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2004 F350 Crew XLT 4x4 long box, SRW, 3.73 Gears
Bone Stock
Probably why FORD labeled their own anti-gel, lubricity, cetane boost product; NOT 2-CYCLE OIL!!! And I agree, people make different decisions and we are here to help each other, BUT, that should also include informing people when they are about to crater their warranty or use an UN-SCIENTIFIC solution. The lubricity products have all been tested by professionals, including the mixing ratio; not a "trial and error" approach to adding something to a VERY expensive engine.
I dont think anyone thinks that warning about a warranty issue is out of line.
It sounds like you might have missed this scientific study:
The above was not a "trial and error." It was methodically done. Some folks just choose a product that exceeds Ford's recommended products especially when the owner will be the one paying for repairs after warranty. Ford just doesnt look very far past the end of thier financial responsibility.
I think its safe to say that OP's issue has nothing to do with the addative.
__________________ 2004 F250 CC FX4 / 46g Transfer Flow / ARP Studs / Coolant Filter / CCV
Probably why FORD labeled their own anti-gel, lubricity, cetane boost product; NOT 2-CYCLE OIL!!! And I agree, people make different decisions and we are here to help each other, BUT, that should also include informing people when they are about to crater their warranty or use an UN-SCIENTIFIC solution. The lubricity products have all been tested by professionals, including the mixing ratio; not a "trial and error" approach to adding something to a VERY expensive engine.
Read the chart smiley posted. The testing has been done. In the lab and in the field. Just because you weren't aware of it doesn't mean it doesn't exist. No offense intended.
Read the chart smiley posted. The testing has been done. In the lab and in the field. Just because you weren't aware of it doesn't mean it doesn't exist. No offense intended.
The way I read it the study was done by a repair shop not scientists. Don't get me wrong, no offense to auto/truck mechanics, I think you need to have at least as much skill as a computer programmer if not more to work on vehicles today; they are much smarter than me, but. I want to see where molecular engineers, etc. did a study. I do "studies" all the time to, but it is with my very limited knowledge so I'm not sure that makes it "qualified."
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2004 F350 Crew XLT 4x4 long box, SRW, 3.73 Gears
Bone Stock
Re-read the test. It was funded to an extent by shops, but done by an independant laboratory using approved methods to test for lubricity. This is kind of old news, but its been out there. I'm certainly no scientist. I can only go by experience and what makes sense. I'm also not in the 2 stroke oil business, so truthfully I could care less who runs what. In an earlier thread about this topic I mentioned that my truck isn't stock, which is something of an understatement. I have no idea how a cat or an egr valve would cope with this as an additive. If your truck is stock, maybe its not a good idea. IMHO I would be more concerned about having an egr valve and a cat on a 6.0 before I worried about 2 stroke oil. Remove whats putting more soot back in the oil, get a free flowing exhaust minus the cat, and you might be surprised what that 6.0 can do, power-wise. From the factory its really not allowed to fart or breath, so sometimes they have a hard time living. Just my .02
OK I'll jump in this bar room brawl. The purpose of the test was to study one, and only one thing: lubricity of fuel additives in an HFFR test machine. It did not test the additives in actual diesel engines, and it did not examine or look for any consequential effects to actual engines, adverse or otherwise, of additives beyond their ability to provided lubricity to fuel. It did, however, note that several of the additives were not ULSD compliant and "may damage systems," which presumably means diesel engine systems like DPFs and whatnot, although no empirical data was given to support those asides. The report also does not make any claims that additives would NOT "damage systems" just because there was no notation that it would.
Having said this, my guess is that the OP's smoke issues are due to something other than the 2-cycle oil, but who knows for sure? It is not outside the realm of possibilities that the OP's truck was operated in such a way that the 2-cycle oil contributed to higher than normal particulates in the exhaust and may have led to coking of turbo or EGR valve. Just because it didn't happen to others does not mean it can never happen. Gotta compare apples to apples and all that.
BTW, I'm going to guess that Moparman's extensive use of 2-cycle oil were on a Cummins and not a 6.0L. FWIW.
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2004 F-250 Lariat CC, Short Bed, 4x4, 6.0L, TorqShift, FX4, Metallic Green/Arizona Beige, Medium Parchment Leather, Fumoto, B&W Turnover, A.R.E. LSX Tonneau, Built 4/01/04
I've read and re-read all the posts regarding the use of 2 cycle oil added to the fuel. Well yesterday following a fill up I decided to give it a try to see if I would begin seeing some of results that others had seen. Well didn't notice anything right away after adding it and during the drive home, about 10-15 miles after adding. However when I fired the truck up this morning to let it warm up, it was blowing thick white smoke like a steam locomotive chugging up a steep grade. Now mind you, I've never had any issues with the truck smoking when the weathers cold until now, with temps as low as the mid-teens. This mornings temp was 34 degrees.
I'm hoping I didn't cause a problem. I decided to make the drive into work with the truck, hoping that maybe the smoke would lessen or maybe even stop all together, no luck even after the truck reached it normal running temperature, although the truck wasn't running outside the norm since I've owned it. She's a smooth running rig altogether, no rough starts or anything , just the thick white smoke now.
Now I'm thinking "did I add the right stuff as far as 2 cycle oil goes ?" I bought and added SuperTech 2 cycle oil at the local Wal-Mart however it was Marine Oil, non-synthetic and that was all I could find for 2 cycle oil.
Is this the right stuff to be using ? If so, has anyone else experienced this after trying the method ? I hoping that I haven't opened up a can of worms by doing this and that I don't need to take the truck in for service and repairs.
I also checked the coolant levels in the radiator and reservoir after the truck cooled as well as the dip stick once I got to work, all levels are fine and the oil looks good, not milky. Started the truck again, same thing. Checked the tailpipe to see if I'm making water or steam, no just the smoke and it has a strong smell like diesel fuel . I also don't believe it's the fuel itself because I've always used the fuel from this station since I bought the rig, and I'm on my 4th tank. No problem until now.
Sorry for the length of this post . Any help, comments and recommendations are appreciated. Do I need to think about draining my fuel tank ? I hope not ...
R/,
Joe
Excluding everyone giving you a hard time, I noticed that Walmart sells two types of 2-stroke oil, in similar packaging. The one that has been recommended is the TCW3 (ashless). Which one did you use?
Mark
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2004 White F350 XLT, CC, SB, 4x4, 6.0L Auto, 3.73LS, Camper Pkg, Skid Pkg, Edge 2" Mini Spring Pack, Bilsteins, MBRP Exhaust, FluidAmpr, Elite Regulated Return (55 psi), Airdog, Weld Evo Velociti & LT285/75-16
Built: 11/03/03
First off I'd like to thank everyone who responded to my original post, could have done without all the flame-throwers and sarcastic remarks, but I guess you'll get that regardles of where your at. Those who understand why I did what I did and offered up their advice, it was much appreciated. I haven't been able to read and respond unti this morning because of what I've been doing on my own trying to solve my troubles.
After spending a small fortune ($$OUCH!!) and the past few evenings after work in the garage trying to do as much damage control as I'm capable of on my own, here's the progress that I've made and maintenance that I've done. I replaced both fuel filters, pulled, cleaned and re-installed the EGR valve, and the biggest pain in the neck; dropped, drained and flushed the fuel tank twice using 5 gallons of regular diesel fuel each time, then dumping it.
Luckily today is an off day for me, so I'm hoping to get everything back together and remounted, then add some clean diesel fuel to the tank and fire the truck off to see what happens. I'll be back on later with an update. If this works I'll be happier than a pig in sh!t.
Then all I'll need to worry about is getting rid of about 50 gallons of tainted fuel.
If not, it'll have to go in for service/ repairs.
Again thanks for all the feedback and all the efforts trying to help me figure this thing out.
Joe
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2005 Lariat/FX4 F-250 SD Crew Cab LWB 6.0 PSD w/ Auto Trans. Torreador Red w/ Arizona Beige. 52k miles
Daily Driver with occasional hauling and/or towing duty.
Living in Michigan, I see a lot of white smoke on startups and have since it was new. I found the white smoke was dependent on 2 things. Outside temp was one and the brand of fuel was the other. Using BP (Amoco) there was no smoke ever. Cetane is very high because of the fuel additives and blend. Filling with blended #2/#1 diesel will smoke like there is no tomorrow. Cetane improver does help a bit.
Adding the 2 stroke oil lowered the cetane level a bit and helped to cause the smoke. I would use the fuel that you taken out of your truck this spring when it warms up. There is nothing that will hurt your engine by using it. I've been using it for almost 2 years with no problems at all.
Keep in mind that one of your biggest critics here has the name, "newtodieseling" and that should be enough of a clue for you.
Jim
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2001, F250 4x4, CC, Auto; Mobil 1 in transfer case&Trans.; Frantz Bypass Filter; "Hutch" fuel mods; Sonnax/Tricum mod; 4" Exhaust, 30" MagnaFlow; Attitude in A-Pillar and tranny gauge in Dash; AIS; EASE Diagnostics; Reese Slider Hitch; Fr Rotors, Cryo Treated&Slotted by ART.
Interesting thread... I'm not going "to put a dog in this fight" as I have nothing constructive to add. However, you have my sympathies. Nothing worse than trying something on your truck hoping for a positive outcome only to cause yourself massive financial and/or wrenching nightmares... Been there, done that... At least you've got the members here to help you sort through it all, both good comments and bad...
First off I'd like to thank everyone who responded to my original post, could have done without all the flame-throwers and sarcastic remarks, but I guess you'll get that regardles of where your at. Those who understand why I did what I did and offered up their advice, it was much appreciated. I haven't been able to read and respond unti this morning because of what I've been doing on my own trying to solve my troubles.
After spending a small fortune ($$OUCH!!) and the past few evenings after work in the garage trying to do as much damage control as I'm capable of on my own, here's the progress that I've made and maintenance that I've done. I replaced both fuel filters, pulled, cleaned and re-installed the EGR valve, and the biggest pain in the neck; dropped, drained and flushed the fuel tank twice using 5 gallons of regular diesel fuel each time, then dumping it.
Luckily today is an off day for me, so I'm hoping to get everything back together and remounted, then add some clean diesel fuel to the tank and fire the truck off to see what happens. I'll be back on later with an update. If this works I'll be happier than a pig in sh!t.
Then all I'll need to worry about is getting rid of about 50 gallons of tainted fuel.
If not, it'll have to go in for service/ repairs.
Again thanks for all the feedback and all the efforts trying to help me figure this thing out.
Joe
Well, what was the outcome? This is truly comical.
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2004 EB Excursion, 4x4, 6.0, Magnaflow Exhaust, Isspro Gauges in an under cubby pod, Fumoto, V code front springs, Revo 285's and bubba lights
The purpose of the test was to study one, and only one thing: lubricity of fuel additives in an HFFR test machine. It did not test the additives in actual diesel engines, and it did not examine or look for any consequential effects to actual engines, adverse or otherwise, of additives beyond their ability to provided lubricity to fuel. It did, however, note that several of the additives were not ULSD compliant and "may damage systems," which presumably means diesel engine systems like DPFs and whatnot, although no empirical data was given to support those asides. The report also does not make any claims that additives would NOT "damage systems" just because there was no notation that it would.
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