The Diesel Stop banner

Advice on a 2006 supercab

990 views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  TKOPerformance 
#1 ·
I have a 2006 supercab with 8' bed, 6.0 and automatic. It has 32,000 miles. It hasn't been used much the last few years(only 3,000 miles/year or so), but it is going to start being used a lot more, with many long distance trips upcoming. I have changed the oil every couple years, the brakes are relatively new, and the tires are new. It does have an error code that pops up over the mileage after starting(something about the trailer brake I think). What would you suggest for maintenance before it goes back to the hard life?
 
#2 ·
After a lot of reading here, I decided to do a basic flush of the coolant system, install an ELC coolant, ordered a coolant filter, ordered both fuel filters and new OEM oil filter, ordered the BAFX Bluetooth scan tool and bought the Torque Pro app on my phone. Will replace the air filter. After that, I will just drive it!(and monitor temps).
 
#3 ·
That sounds like a solid plan given the low mileage. I would suggest you have the turbo cleaned. I will be shocked if you don't have sticking vanes in the turbo very soon after starting to work the truck given the age/ low mileage.
 
#6 ·
Mine were sticky this spring after the truck sat for about 6 months. The symptoms were excessive boost at no load or light loads. I noticed it on a 6 hour trip with an empty truck. Actually I heard it first - I could hear a light whistle at highway speeds with low throttle input and when I started paying closer attention the boost was holding around 20 psi except at zero throttle. The cure was to punch the throttle a few times when the truck was already pulling a little hard on hills. By the time I got home everything was normal again.
 
#7 ·
Don't wait for symptoms, clean the turbo. By the time you get symptoms you've risked damaging the unison ring and adding over a $150 part to the bill instead of just being proactive. Sitting is terrible for the turbo because condensation forms in the housing, and mixed with the compounds in the exhaust soot you will get corrosion.

I would change all fluids and filters so you have a baseline. Then go by mileage. The crankcase, transmission, rear, etc. all get condensation in them. The tiny amount present in a vehicle that gets used a lot simply boils off in daily use. When a vehicle sits this doesn't happen and now you have water and other compounds in those fluids. Be sure to bleed through the brake fluid so you have a nice firm pedal. This should take at least two quarts of fluid to do right. Bleed until you get clean, new looking fluid at each wheel. You should do this every two years as brake fluid is hygroscopic (it absorbs water from the air) and water and brake fluid have radically different boiling points, so under hard braking the water turns to steam and now you have a gas inside the brake system which is compressible; not good.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bismic
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top