ARP studs one at a time without removing the heads - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 11-12-2009, 08:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cool ARP studs one at a time without removing the heads

Hi I am going to replace the head studs on my 2006 f-350 6.0 diesel. How do you guys feel about doing it one at a time and not replace the H.G. I have 23000 miles on the truck. I will be taking it to Gillett diesel in bluffdale, UT. and this is how they do it if H.G are not blown.

THanks for your help

Last edited by wyodiesel; 11-12-2009 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 11-12-2009, 09:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Do you thank it is OK to do it this way ?
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Old 11-12-2009, 09:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Do you thank it is OK to do it this way ?
I think it will be fine, i am going to do all 3 of my trucks this way, as long as you are 100 percent sure you have no HG leaks, there really should not be a problem, some people may say the other way, not to do it , so its your choice.
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Old 11-13-2009, 12:46 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I have read about guys doing this in the past and have not heard of any failures as a result. Its unconventional, but if it works.... go for it.

Be sure to do some research before you begin. The rear passenger stud seems to be in a difficult spot.
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Old 11-13-2009, 07:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
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It is perfectly acceptable to replace head bolts in this manner. The studs however use a much higher torque than the TTY bolts. I would just ask how the shop intends on raising the torque to this higher value. It would be best if the studs were initially torqued to the value of the TTY bolt that they replaced and then use a torque pattern and incrementally raise the studs to their final value
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Old 11-13-2009, 09:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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IF you have good headgaskets, then doing it that way will work.

The problem is, without taking the heads off you don't really know if your gaskets are good (and at that point, they have to be replaced)...
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Old 11-13-2009, 10:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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It appears that you may still be under warranty. Why not wait till you are out of warranty in case something should go wrong.
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Old 11-13-2009, 02:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I only have a few mouths of warranty. and if the E.G.R cooler go's it can't be good on the engine.

Thanks for all the input
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Old 11-13-2009, 05:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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What's the down side? If it works your good to go. If not you have to replace the head gasket, It's worth a try.
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Old 11-14-2009, 11:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the input. I have desisted to have this done I will keep everyone updated
on how this works out.
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Old 11-21-2009, 04:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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OK i pickup my truck on Friday 11/20/09 it is running great and the egt is lower by about 100 degrees. i will keep everyone updated on how the truck is running

thanks for the reply's
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Old 11-21-2009, 08:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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OK i pickup my truck on Friday 11/20/09 it is running great and the egt is lower by about 100 degrees. i will keep everyone updated on how the truck is running

thanks for the reply's

I am confused? How did studding your block reduce EGTs? I see no relationship in the two. Did I miss something in this post?
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Old 11-21-2009, 11:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Last edited by teamroper60; 03-15-2010 at 12:36 AM.
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:40 AM   #14 (permalink)
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You did that while still in warranty?
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Old 11-22-2009, 11:07 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I only have a few mouths of warranty. and if the E.G.R cooler go's it can't be good on the engine.

Thanks for all the input
The oil cooler usually plugs 1st, causing the egr cooler to go.
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