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Batteries died - no start

2K views 14 replies 3 participants last post by  dieselnoob1 
#1 ·
long story short --- alternator wasn't getting juice to batteries and while i was driving the batteries took a dump and the truck completely shut off. crank but no start. was getting a bunch of FICM codes, so I figured I fried it.

Towed it home, charged the batts and pulled the FICM. Put in a FICM that I had (from ficmrepair) that is in my other truck (6.0 same year). Still crank but no start. ICP only getting up to 30-40psi.

Thoughts?
 
#3 ·
It sound to me like your issue is the low oil pressure, not the FICM. Your not getting the required 500psi to fire the injectors
 
#4 ·
i know, any suggestions? i know problems are usually (but not always) related to each other...so considering i hate my alternator/voltage issue i figured this no-start is something electrical.

ipr is 85% at crank

pulled icp pigtail off and still no start
 
#5 ·
Not denying that this could obviously be a mechanical high pressure oil leak.... I just find it a strange coincidence that it would happen at the same time I was having electrical issues. I'm trying to rule out any electrical problems (fuses, wire chaffing etc) that could have been a result of my low batt voltage that would cause this no start before diving into the high pressure system. Any suggestions? Is that even possible?

The STC fitting as well as standpipes & dummy plugs have already been replaced with upgraded versions.


Any thoughts appreciated
 
#6 ·
I am not a diesel mechanic but I have worked on my own a couple times and electrical issue aside, you have something going on in your HPOP system that is not allowing it to build pressure. 85% from the IPR means its wide open and still not building pressure. You may or may not have an electrical issue but one thing is for sure, the trucks not going to start until you get it to build about 500 psi in the HPO system....it it were me, I would start there. The low pressure could turn out to be an electrical issue but what I'm trying to say is trun the thought process around and treat this as a low pressure issue when you start to diagnose and it may or may not lead you to electrical.

There are a ton of no start threads you can research on the 6.0L engine section, including a sticky thread, IIRC. If you can't find some direction there, I'm sure some of the more trained pros will come along and help.

If I'm off base with this, someone more knowledgeable than me, please chime in!
 
#8 ·
I hear you. Suppose I'll start with the IPR. I did look back there and it seems a mouse has made a nest on top of the HPOP.

Is the best way to verify whether the IPR is actuating to pressurize the HPO system with air and listen for changes when activating the IPR?
 
#7 ·
Just a thought, but is your starter turning the engine over fast enough to build the pressure?
 
#10 ·
Again, I am not an expert but I'm not sure that hearing a change in airflow when energizing the IPR will guarantee it is functioning correctly. IDK what age or miles are on your IPR but I think I would be tempted to just replace it, they are one of the higher failure points of the HPO system. If it turns out to be something else after you've changed it, throw the old one in the glove box as a road spare to get you home. You will need to pull the FICM to change it so that will give you a chance to make sure you got all 3 plugs back in tight when you swapped it out. There is also a ground wire back there, not sure if it's for the FICM or not but make sure it's on the stud. If you find a loose or detached FICM plug, you can reseat it , try to start again and return the IPR valve if that fixes it.

That's how I would approach it but others that know more may disagree. and, NO, you don't have to pull the turbo to change the IPR, I've done it, it can be done. Just follow the Dieseltec Ron video bolt by bolt and it works. I also bought one of those 1/4 drive Milwaukee ratchets he uses....freaking amazing for working on a 6.0L. Best tool in my box now for working at the back of this engine.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the info Phil. I have one of those Milwaukee ratchets too -- you really don't realize how nice it is to zip a bolt/nut off with it until you use it. I also bought the IPR socket back when I did my oil cooler rebuild because I was worried I would be clogging the screen.


As of now, here is my thinking on steps to troubleshoot:

1. Check all FICM/PCM wire connections and plugs to look for chaffing or loose plugs
2. Remove IPR and inspect/test/replace
3. Remove turbo and pressure test HPO system to listen for leaks


Thanks again for the suggestions. If any one sees something I may be missing let me know. I will definitely follow this through and post the final outcome. Hopefully sooner rather than later!

Just for details/background:

truck is a 2006 with about 130k on it
Replaced head gaskets added studs
Replaced standpipes/dummy plugs
Replaced STC fitting with new
Fuel spring upgrade
EGR delete
High-amp alternator
Coolant filter
Oil cooler rebuilt ~3 years ago
 
#12 ·
Sounds good to me. You don't have to pull the turbo to test the HPO system though unless you have something else in mind that your doing.
 
#13 ·
ipr failure

well finally got some time to dive back into the beast and pulled the ipr. as many have suggested, it looks toast. there is small section of screen wedged down in there --- assuming it is stuck open. waiting on a new ipr in the mail...

in the meantime..... any thoughts on failure? have tried searching and have seen everything from " your HPOP is dying" to, "it was old...that's what old things do, they die..."


i know failure rate is high when dirt is left behind from an oil cooler rebuild...but i did mine almost 4 years ago. i did head gaskets last year but i didn't have the reservoir valley open --- besides that was 20k+ miles ago.
 
#14 ·
Sometimes you will never know what it was that did it unless it stays stuck in there.
 
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