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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super-Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

       
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Old 07-03-2009, 11:04 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Batterys or alt

My wife's truck went dead after a short drive. The battery terminals were really dirty,jumped the truck and headed home. Had no gauges till almost home. Cleaned the terminals and charged the batterys and ran fine. Load test on batterys was good. Now when she drives down the hwy the battery light comes on for a while then goes off, then comes back on, then off etc. Could it be a bad battery or alt.
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95 F350 4x4 XLT Lariat PSD E4OD 4:10 LS Camper package purch Mar 95 Command start, super chip(died),BD 3" downpipe & 4" cat back,cat cleaned, switched EBPV,shimmed fpr 76 psi,Homemade open air intake & HX hose,Pillar mount Autometer pyro boost & trans temp. gauges,Trucool 4590 B&M trans filter,Sparky AIC plus extra relay for command start,BFG AT 285/75/16.

Wifes truck 2004 F350 CC 4x4 Lariat 6.0 L Torqueshift 373ls 285/75/16 BFG AT adj. pedals,AIC
heated seats,camper package,ESOF,tow mirrors,Ford
gold starter, Air Raid air filter.

99.5 F350 4x4 Lariat sc PSD Dually, command start, homemade open air filter,zoodad mod,6.0 trans cooler,DTT trans,Mag-Hytec trans pan,Pillar mount Autometer gauges, 4" stainless exhaust(chinese MBRP copy?), DP Tuner F6
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Old 07-03-2009, 01:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2stroked View Post
My wife's truck went dead after a short drive. The battery terminals were really dirty,jumped the truck and headed home. Had no gauges till almost home. Cleaned the terminals and charged the batterys and ran fine. Load test on batterys was good. Now when she drives down the hwy the battery light comes on for a while then goes off, then comes back on, then off etc. Could it be a bad battery or alt.

Mine did the same thing right before the alternator stopped working completely...
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Fyi

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2stroked View Post
My wife's truck went dead after a short drive. The battery terminals were really dirty,jumped the truck and headed home. Had no gauges till almost home. Cleaned the terminals and charged the batterys and ran fine. Load test on batterys was good. Now when she drives down the hwy the battery light comes on for a while then goes off, then comes back on, then off etc. Could it be a bad battery or alt.


Check the fuseible links behind the alt, common problem
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Old 07-07-2009, 08:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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what would be the fusible links, the plastic piece bolted to the alt? I took that off and the truck still runs and charges then stops charging. Could the belt slip enough to do that, it only has 60000 miles on it. I took the belt off of the alt and the bearings sound really good(how do you release the tension on the belt?)
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95 F350 4x4 XLT Lariat PSD E4OD 4:10 LS Camper package purch Mar 95 Command start, super chip(died),BD 3" downpipe & 4" cat back,cat cleaned, switched EBPV,shimmed fpr 76 psi,Homemade open air intake & HX hose,Pillar mount Autometer pyro boost & trans temp. gauges,Trucool 4590 B&M trans filter,Sparky AIC plus extra relay for command start,BFG AT 285/75/16.

Wifes truck 2004 F350 CC 4x4 Lariat 6.0 L Torqueshift 373ls 285/75/16 BFG AT adj. pedals,AIC
heated seats,camper package,ESOF,tow mirrors,Ford
gold starter, Air Raid air filter.

99.5 F350 4x4 Lariat sc PSD Dually, command start, homemade open air filter,zoodad mod,6.0 trans cooler,DTT trans,Mag-Hytec trans pan,Pillar mount Autometer gauges, 4" stainless exhaust(chinese MBRP copy?), DP Tuner F6
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Your alternator is likely going bad. You can test it if you have a DC current clamp and a meter. You should see approximately 40-60 amps current draw at idle.

My truck doesn't have fusible links between the alternator and the batteries, and the schematics don't show a fuse either. But here's how you could check the alternator cable if you suspect it's bad:
1. Get a volt/ohmmeter.
2. Get the truck to malfunction (not charge, battery light, etc)
3. Measure the voltage drop across the wire. (measure the voltage from the alternator the the positive battery post)
If you have more than a few millivolts, then the cable is adding resistance to the charging circuit. Replace the alternator cable.
More than likely you will see nothing. Measure the voltage at the battery when the truck is malfunctioning. If it's lower than 13 to 14 volts, then the alternator is not supplying power to the electrical system and it will need to be replaced. I usually recommend people recplacing alternators to read my post Avoid chain parts-store Alternators!!!

The tension comes off the belt by inserting a 1/2" ratchet into the cast-in square relief on the back side of the belt tensioner. Just curious though: how did you get the belt off of the alternator if you don't know how to release the belt tension?
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I couldn't get a ratchet or bar into the back of the tensioner so I used a stick to pry the pulley over and had the wife pull the belt off of the alt. Do you go at the back of the tensioner from the top or the bottom. After doing some searches I see some people use a ratchett strap down around the sway bar and up to tow hook. I had my tester on the battery while the truck was running and when the light came on the battery read 12 volts and was dropping.
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95 F350 4x4 XLT Lariat PSD E4OD 4:10 LS Camper package purch Mar 95 Command start, super chip(died),BD 3" downpipe & 4" cat back,cat cleaned, switched EBPV,shimmed fpr 76 psi,Homemade open air intake & HX hose,Pillar mount Autometer pyro boost & trans temp. gauges,Trucool 4590 B&M trans filter,Sparky AIC plus extra relay for command start,BFG AT 285/75/16.

Wifes truck 2004 F350 CC 4x4 Lariat 6.0 L Torqueshift 373ls 285/75/16 BFG AT adj. pedals,AIC
heated seats,camper package,ESOF,tow mirrors,Ford
gold starter, Air Raid air filter.

99.5 F350 4x4 Lariat sc PSD Dually, command start, homemade open air filter,zoodad mod,6.0 trans cooler,DTT trans,Mag-Hytec trans pan,Pillar mount Autometer gauges, 4" stainless exhaust(chinese MBRP copy?), DP Tuner F6
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Do it from the top of the engine. You have to line it up just right. You may need a short piece of pipe to get clearance. It sucks, but there's just no clearance there.

Definitely sounds like an alternator. If you already have the belt off, then the hard part's done. Remove the three bolts holding the alternator and the nut securing the alternator wire, remove the connector and take it to the parts store. They will test it for you for free.
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Our parts stores don't test alt's. They had a rebuilt one, but a new one was only $20 more so I ordered one, will be here this morning along with a new belt. I used a ratchet strap to pull the tensioner down and a pair of vise clamps to hold the lever in while I released the strap. Then I started to take out the belt. What a pia. I know that it is going to be a lot of fun and bad words before I get the new belt on.
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95 F350 4x4 XLT Lariat PSD E4OD 4:10 LS Camper package purch Mar 95 Command start, super chip(died),BD 3" downpipe & 4" cat back,cat cleaned, switched EBPV,shimmed fpr 76 psi,Homemade open air intake & HX hose,Pillar mount Autometer pyro boost & trans temp. gauges,Trucool 4590 B&M trans filter,Sparky AIC plus extra relay for command start,BFG AT 285/75/16.

Wifes truck 2004 F350 CC 4x4 Lariat 6.0 L Torqueshift 373ls 285/75/16 BFG AT adj. pedals,AIC
heated seats,camper package,ESOF,tow mirrors,Ford
gold starter, Air Raid air filter.

99.5 F350 4x4 Lariat sc PSD Dually, command start, homemade open air filter,zoodad mod,6.0 trans cooler,DTT trans,Mag-Hytec trans pan,Pillar mount Autometer gauges, 4" stainless exhaust(chinese MBRP copy?), DP Tuner F6
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Old 07-09-2009, 02:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah. I figured out it saves a bunch of knuckle skin if you just remove the tensioner to get the belt out. It's only held on by two bolts. Good luck.
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Old 07-09-2009, 08:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I thought about taking off the tensioner, but instead released it and put the belt through and then pulled it back tight and locked it. It wasn't as bad as I thought, took out the bolts on the bottom of the fan shroud? and pryed it over. Took a while but it's done and charging now so hope I don't have to piss with it for a long time. Thanks for the pointers, helped a lot.
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95 F350 4x4 XLT Lariat PSD E4OD 4:10 LS Camper package purch Mar 95 Command start, super chip(died),BD 3" downpipe & 4" cat back,cat cleaned, switched EBPV,shimmed fpr 76 psi,Homemade open air intake & HX hose,Pillar mount Autometer pyro boost & trans temp. gauges,Trucool 4590 B&M trans filter,Sparky AIC plus extra relay for command start,BFG AT 285/75/16.

Wifes truck 2004 F350 CC 4x4 Lariat 6.0 L Torqueshift 373ls 285/75/16 BFG AT adj. pedals,AIC
heated seats,camper package,ESOF,tow mirrors,Ford
gold starter, Air Raid air filter.

99.5 F350 4x4 Lariat sc PSD Dually, command start, homemade open air filter,zoodad mod,6.0 trans cooler,DTT trans,Mag-Hytec trans pan,Pillar mount Autometer gauges, 4" stainless exhaust(chinese MBRP copy?), DP Tuner F6
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