6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
i had them on both my previous 99(green) and my "new" 99(tan)
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early 1999, 7/98, F-250 7.3L, 250,000+ miles, 4x4, triple disk torque convertor, AFE dryflo home made cold air intake, straight pipe exhaust, superchips tuner (stuck on high performance tune,because someone stole the tuner out of my truck), 4.7K mod, Glow shift gauges (pyro, boost, egt), CCV mod, 3in of lift in front, 1in in back w/ 2009 SD rims w/ 2in wheel spacers wrapped in 325/65/18 Fierce Attitude MT, aftermarket headlamps w/ LED's, ranchhand grill guard, 03' front bumper w/ fog lights, gooseneck hitch
i found a fab fours bumper that normally sells for just short of 3000.00 for 600.00 on craigslist,a short 18 hr trip and she was mine.it was in new condition,so maybe hit good ol craigslist.
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Originally Posted by WERA976
Dang, you weren't kidding about the prices for those bumpers! Jeez! Yeah, we're gonna re-evalute the whole bumper idea.
That rack on the cap looks nice. Do you use it much? My truck came with a cap, but I sometimes wish it had the elevated height, instead of being cab high all the way back. More height would make it easier to load/unload dirtbikes in the bed.
Where can I find the dimensional specs on m truck: height, length, weight etc.?
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2002 f250 lariat 7.3 200k(motor has 170k)
original 4r100 tranny....200k and counting
knock on wood......
tony wildman chip......
stock,economy,daily,towing,extreme,smoke.
red elc good for 150k
4r100 1-2 2-3 3-4sonnax accumulator valves,.427 sonnax line pressure mod valve
4.125"yes thats 4 1/8" diy tymar intake(size matters...lol)
AIH delete,ccv delete,zoodad mod,
4" exhaust no muff
built my own leafs for 4.0 of lift!!!!!!
18" xd bronze revolvers with 325 nittos to wrap them
isspro pyro and boost guages on pillar mount....
The e-brake does not self adjust. It is a drum-in-hat design. You can adjust the e-brake using the integrated turnwheel or starwheel (think drum brakes of the old days). The turnwheel is located under a rubber plug on the inside of the backing plate.
The e-brake "mini" drum brake system is inside the rear rotors. To replace the shoes, it is easier to pull the axles and the hub.
As far as your keypad problems, in your manual it tells you how to change the code to whatever you like, just did it for a buddy and it's simple to do.
Yeah, but I have to know the factory code first, right? I'll have to look for that; I've read the threads, I'll sniff around and see if I can locate the sticker w/ the serial number. Thanks.
So how long should you let the engine idle before shut down? How long does it take to cool off the turbo? 60 seconds? 90? 300?
When worked extremely hard, Ford states it could take as long as 7-10 minutes IIRC. That is too long to let the engine idle unless you have installed the high idle mod. This is where gauges are very important - an EGT "post-turbo" would be great, but can be estimated w/ a "pre-turbo" EGT.
We drove home last night from north Alabama back to north Georgia on two-lane country roads (60 MPH +/-) and interstate (70 MPH). Temperatures were hovering around 40-ish and the truck was empty save for my wife and myself. This morning there was a puddle under the truck a little smaller than my palm. What watery (not oily) fluid would be leaking from under the front end of truck that has no smell that I could tell, but a reddish tint? As you look at the truck from the front, it's left of center, towards the passenger side, and as you look from the passenger side it's just barely forward of the front tire? Is the truck coolant reddish? It's a spot where I would expect a puddle from an A/C condenser, and had it been clear water I would have thought nothing of it. But the red-tint really threw me.
Oh... and tell me again how big the fuel tank is in this truck?
I looked - it's apparently the trans cooler external filter. Funny, the fluid doesn't feel oily and has no smell. Oh well, I now have another weekend project.
Can anyone recommend a good diesel shop in suburban northeast Atlanta/north Georgia? I've got some work for them! :-)
Questions - do exhaust systems need to be welded, or am I OK using clamps at the connections? Do I need to replace the system on a lift, or can it be done on the ground? I have a LWB 2WD crew cab dually, so it rides kinda low.
Thanks!
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2004 F-350 Lariat, ~ 131,000 miles
2WD Crew Cab, Long bed, Dually, 6.0L PSD, Automatic
Done: Sirius Satellite Radio; Coolant Filtration System; Prodigy Brake Controller; 4" Turbo-Back Exhaust, cat delete; FoMoCo "Blue Spring" upgrade; Galaxy DX959, Astatic mic & Wilson 1K; Edge Insight CTS; ARP head studs, FoMoCo head gaskets, FoMoCo oil cooler, EGR delete, HPOP, IPR; HFCM Updated Drain Plug;
To Do: ISSPRO Fuel Pressure Gauge, R&R all suspension bushings, Preventative Maintenance
Although I've never been there, I'm not sure I would buy diesel fuel from a place named Grub Mart.
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2005 F-350 LARIAT 6.0 PSD SRW AUTO FX4 (removed) CC SB White, International emblems, Tow Command, Upfitters, Line-X, ScanGauge, Pioneer Appradio, Banks Technicooler and intake w/Zoodad, Dieselsite coolant filter (w/RMI-25), braided 4x4 lines, Mag-Hytec trans pan & diff covers, Fumoto oil valve (Motorcraft 15W-40), Knurled HFCM drain plug, Britebox, EZ-Down tailgate, BedStep, MBRP 5" cat-back (6" tip), Putnam class V hitch with 1upUSA bike rack, TransferFlow 30 gal toolbox tank + 46 gal midship tank = 76 gals total with Stanadyne Performance additive and FPPF cetane improver... the rest is all stock you nig-nogs. 64k miles, 1600+ hours.
Waiting for "BigTurbo" to help me install: Dieselsite Trans filter kit.
Your exhaust system can be changed without a lift but I would either put the front end on some jackstands or drive it up on some blocks/ramp to give you room. You will either have to cut the downpipe off as high as you can reach or remove the transmission crossmember and support the transmission while you remove it. I recommend cutting, it is much easier and gives you room to wiggle the downpipe around (it will be a bear getting that out but the new one will slide right in..).
BTW, your longbed has a 38 gallon tank on it.
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
What is the stock diameter of the turbo downpipe? 3", or 3.5"? Is there any advantage to going to a 4" diameter downpipe w/ re: mileage and/or EGTs?
I'm close to settling on a set of gauges: Auto Meter's GS series. I think I can handle the pyrometer install no problem, the boost seems pretty straight forward if you take your time and do it well, and trans temperature looks like a straight forward process as well.
I would like an in-the-cab fuel pressure gauge: is there a solution for that? Or would a mechanical gauge on the cowl be required? I don't want fuel in the cab if I can avoid it.
Is there an "easy" way to hook up an electronic engine oil temperature gauge, or would I need to install a bung for a probe like you do the EGT probe?
Water temp I understand is "easy", as there is supposed to be a freeze plug that can be swapped for a sensor housing on the side of the engine block.
Is the stock oil pressure gauge trust-worthy? I have read the trans temp gauge is a joke, so I wonder about all the gauges now. I had the PD check my speedometer, and it's spot on at 35-40 MPH.
Sunday I'm installing the coolant filter kit that arrived last Wednesday night, addressing the tranny filter leak and probably doing an oil/oil filter change.
Thanks in advance!
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2004 F-350 Lariat, ~ 131,000 miles
2WD Crew Cab, Long bed, Dually, 6.0L PSD, Automatic
Done: Sirius Satellite Radio; Coolant Filtration System; Prodigy Brake Controller; 4" Turbo-Back Exhaust, cat delete; FoMoCo "Blue Spring" upgrade; Galaxy DX959, Astatic mic & Wilson 1K; Edge Insight CTS; ARP head studs, FoMoCo head gaskets, FoMoCo oil cooler, EGR delete, HPOP, IPR; HFCM Updated Drain Plug;
To Do: ISSPRO Fuel Pressure Gauge, R&R all suspension bushings, Preventative Maintenance
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2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
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