Black smoke and limp mode, now no start! - Diesel Forum

Larchy · 11-27-2012, 10:41 PM

Hey guys, my wife was driving our '05 excursion pulling a horse trailer just getting onto the freeway when it started dumping black smoke and had no power, limp mode I assume. She said it didn't run rough, stumble or buck, just no power. The more throttle the more smoke with no more power. She limped it back home and parked it. I was out of town working and could do nothing 'til I returned home weeks later. By that time the batteries were dead, charged the batteries and tried to start, almost started but didn't. Kept the charger on to help but after that first attempt it never even came close to sounding like it's even trying to start. Just cranks, but sounds very labored.
Hoping these symtoms will give you guys in the know a good idea where I should start. Thanks in advance for all the insight, you guys are the reason these 6.0's keep going!!

Jeff

2 Stroker · 11-27-2012, 10:59 PM

I would start with some new batteries, weak or bad batteries will kill the FICM then that means more $$$$ I would pull the EGR valve to see what it looks like check your boots hot side to see if they have a hole in it plus you may have a turbo sticking. Need some gauges every 6.0 needs them because the ones in the dash just look good and take up space. Need to run cetane boost in the fuel and once a week drive it like you stole it to keep things working.

2 stroker

Larchy · 11-28-2012, 05:55 PM

Thanks for the reply 2 stroker, so I pulled the codes and got one that indicates the EGR. P1335, EGR Position Sensor Minimum/Maximum Stop Preformance. Does that code indicate what the problem is or just lead me to the next step. I haven't had to deal with the EGR since my warrenty has expired, I know it was fixed/replaced by ford, but that was well before 100k, now it's a 140k. What do ya think. You metioned pulling it to check it, not sure what to look for or what I can do when its pulled? I'm going to check that as well as the other stuff you mentioned, just hoping that code tells all that needs to be known.
Thanks,Jeff

djshum · 11-28-2012, 06:27 PM

Yes, pull your egr valve and inspect for carbon build-up and valve hanging open. Also check for coolant on intake, egr cooler leaking into intake will cause valve to stick.

2 Stroker · 11-28-2012, 11:34 PM

Jeff
If you don't know how to pull the egr valve these boys will give you a few tips
6.0L power stroke egr repair - YouTube
2 stroker

Larchy · 12-03-2012, 12:24 AM

Pulled the EGR and it didn't look too bad, just a bit of build-up but valve seemed to move free. Cleaned and replaced. had the batteries load tested and even though they are fairly new and fully charged they came up bad! put some good batteries in it and I was able to get it started but only ran for a short while and died but didn't sound too good while it ran. I pulled codes and got the FICM code P0611 which I've been getting for quite some time now, like over a year. but it never seemed to affect the way the truck ran, the voltages always checked out ok and ran fine, I pulled it at one point to check for obvious bad components but all looked good.
Also pulled the boot off the turbo and it spun sweet, so with no apparent EGR or turbo issues and the fact that I've had the recurring FICM codes, I feel like the move is to go ahead and pull the FICM and get it repaired as it has to be done anyway and hopefully that will be the culprit and fix my problem.
Any thoughts are appreciated, does anyone know what the affect of a bad FICM is while driving, is it consistent with my black smoke no power issue?
Also I think I'm going to send my FICM to the guys at FICMRepair.com, anybody have any thoughts on that?
Thanks guys, Jeff

Iam4MSU · 12-03-2012, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larchy

I pulled codes and got the FICM code P0611 which I've been getting for quite some time now, like over a year. but it never seemed to affect the way the truck ran, the voltages always checked out ok and ran fine, I pulled it at one point to check for obvious bad components but all looked good.
Also pulled the boot off the turbo and it spun sweet, so with no apparent EGR or turbo issues and the fact that I've had the recurring FICM codes, I feel like the move is to go ahead and pull the FICM and get it repaired as it has to be done anyway and hopefully that will be the culprit and fix my problem.
Any thoughts are appreciated, does anyone know what the affect of a bad FICM is while driving, is it consistent with my black smoke no power issue?
Also I think I'm going to send my FICM to the guys at FICMRepair.com, anybody have any thoughts on that?
Thanks guys, Jeff

I just had the same smoking hard start no power problem. Ed at FICM repair did wonders for me. Go ahead and get the ATLAs 40 upgrade. I also removed the intake manifold and boiled it out, Cleaned the EGR Valve, R&R the EGR cooler and Oil Cooler and added a coolant filter among other things. Plus a Blue Spring mod.

bismic · 12-03-2012, 06:43 AM

EGR position sensor - minimum stop performance "P1335" is a code that can come from anything from turbo, ebp sensor or plugged tube, icp issues, high pressure oil issue, low side oil volume issue, FICM concerns (especially low voltage), failing injectors, low battery voltage or alternator issue, fuel pump, egr valve, damaged MAP sensor or hose, etc. To know for sure will require more troubleshooting.

The batteries, alternator. and FICM sound like the best place to start since the EGR valve looked OK and the P0611 code.

BTW - some say that you can eventually ruin injectors by not promptly repairing a weak or damaged FICM.

03powerstrokeuser · 12-03-2012, 07:15 AM

Also get some guages double quick, a must when you run a 6.0 !!! It will read the ficm voltages for ya without having to go inside it...Then you can pull codes and trouble shoot the thing and also have a real time heads up on the vitals.I run the Scanguage 2 and love "em' or edge works well... Also ... let ED do the ficm and tune it while it's there. Heck of a guy with the BEST customer service AND plenty of insight on the 6.0 and what it takes to run it A LONG TIME...btw Bad batts are a known ficm killer!!! b

Larchy · 12-03-2012, 10:20 AM

Good stuff guys, thanks for all the great info! I'm going to ship the FICM off to Ed today and get brand new batts. I'll let you know how it all pans out once I get it back and installed. Hope I didn't do other damage as bismic cautioned, but it is what it is now and I'll have to deal with it as I it comes.
Thanks again, Jeff.

Larchy · 12-26-2012, 11:34 PM

Got the FICM back from ED within 2 days of sending it, finally just got time to install it. Fresh batteries and the charger on to help and first few tries, no start. Sounded like the cranks got just a little faster each time, so just after I was about to abandon it for the night I gave it one last try, cranked for a bit then fired like thunder and purred!! Thanks ED at FICMrepair.com!

New issue though, PO673, cyl 3 glow plug circuit. Any thoughts or coarses of action to narrow it down to what part of the circuit. I'm going to do some searching when I get the time, but if you guys could point me in the right direction you'd save me some time which is what I'm lacking the most these days.

Thanks to those who helped, hope all this will help others.

Jeff

dieselmac · 12-26-2012, 11:59 PM

Start out by giving the GP wiring a good inspection for chafes, nicks, etc...

There's 2 ways you can go after that:
1) Ohm out the harness and GP to find the culprit. The GP will give you ~0.5 - 2 Ohms resistance.

2) Don't waste your time figuring out if it's the harness or GP. Just replace both for about $100. ~$45 for the harness and ~$10 for each GP. If it turns out to be a GP, you will almost definitely ruin the harness trying to remove it. It's so close to the exhaust, the rubber boots degrade with time and you'll tear them up removing them. And if it's just the harness, why not go ahead and replace the GP's why you're in there?

#3 will be the second cylinder from the front on the passenger side.

Let us know when/if you do it. There's a few tricks to make the job a lot easier.

On edit: There is a small chance it is your GP Control Module (GPCM). It's very rare that it would cause a single cylinder DTC, but there's been 2 reports I can think of in the last few months where the owner did all the above and ended up replacing the GPCM to fix the problem. They went straight to option 2, though. A little diagnostic work will lead you to the right conclusion.

Iam4MSU · 12-27-2012, 01:10 AM

It is best to pull the fenderwell out to get to the glow plug harness. I made a small u-shaped tool to pull the harness plugs out of the rocker carrier. The passenger side is harder to do than the driver's side.

Larchy · 12-27-2012, 11:37 PM

Quote:

The passenger side is harder to do than the driver's side.

Of course it is!!

Hey dieselmac, could you elaborate on "ohm out the harness". I'm very interested in increasing my understanding of these types of electrical issues/testing. Also I would appreciate the tips you mentioned on doing the job, I will definately be tearing into it myself first chance I get. I like your advice of just doing both while I'm there but want to be able to test to know as you suggested.
Thanks for the help.