Block heater - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Go Back   Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties > 6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain

6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

TheDieselstop.com is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-14-2013, 09:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Derkperk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 258
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Block heater

Hey guys. I've been having issues with my block heater tripping my gfi on my garage outlet. I've switched cords and circuits without a change. Wondering if one of you can check the resistance of your heaters to compare with mine. I get 14.9 ohms when it's cold. Any other input would be appreciated.
__________________
'05 F250 Lariat Crew Shorty Dark Stone FX4
AFE, MBRP single 304 4"w/ test pipe
ARP's w/ stock gaskets, Air Dog II 165
Driven Diesel Reg Ret fuel Kit
RCD Delete, 180/75's, 68mm VG Blow Jobby
Innovative Diesel Tuned SCT X3
Diesel Site coolant filter, Insight CTS
Overhead Auto Meters, Leveled
Homebrew traction bars
35x12.50x20 ATZ's on Ultra Mako's
Derkperk is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-14-2013, 10:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
Lifetime Supporting Member
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
MikeL46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 1,433
My Photos: (14)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
That sounds about right for a 1000W heater.

Mike
__________________
04 E-350 Ext. 6.0L PSD 4.10LS 9700# w/driver
D70 Full floating rear axle from a cutaway van
Sportsmobile camper conversion w/penthouse top
140A Alternator. 125W solar panel. Sportsmobile off-road trailer.
115615 miles. 16.65 mpg average
From Cal to Alaska, Key West, Labrador/Newfoundland and points in between
Salem Kroger coil spring 4wd conversion - 4" lift
05 F350 front axle and aluminum wheels 275/70-18 tires.
46 Gal tank - harpooned pump vent tube.
Scangauge. DieselSite Coolant Filter@72K. Fumoto valve. Amsoil dual remote oil filter setup.
MikeL46 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-14-2013, 11:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
rforsythe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 200
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
*Any* moisture will trip the GFCI. Condensation/dew from the atmosphere has done it for me. One trick is I tuck the cord back into the cavity after plugging it in, this keeps any nighttime precip from getting in there and seems to help with condensation/frost for whatever reason.

This drove me nuts for a while, but just not leaving the connection hanging out in the breeze generally works for me.
rforsythe is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-15-2013, 02:25 AM   #4 (permalink)
Member
 
mattspersic@gmail.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 47
My Photos: (1)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via Skype™ to mattspersic@gmail.com
Some GFIC Comments

You might have a pinhole sized breech in the insulation. Usually resistance won't cause a ground-fault GFIC trip (low resistance will trip on overcurrent). I've found the breech is usually at the cord grip (where it mates to the molded plug or heater body). If it is an old heater, there might be moisture or leakage inside (i.e. current leakage from element to fluid or exposed to interior moisture to metal case). A simple Ohm measurement won't detect this (you could use a Megger or 1000 V insulation tester *but* I'm not sure megging-it on the vehicle is a good idea ... I know the ECM/ECU won't like being nearby! and you might fry an I/O port.)

If it is an old GFIC breaker, the breaker could be bad (even a new one) - I've replaced a few in my job. Things like old drills can sometimes get a flakey GFIC to trip. You might check the torque on the GFIC breaker terminals - if the GFIC trips after a few minutes or more, loose terminals might be causing heating of the breaker and it will trip. Our customers check screw terminals annually with a FLIR thermal imaging unit (just tightening is no longer recommended because you over torque and stress the metal year after year).

Try an extension cord through a window to a known good bathroom or Kitchen GFIC outlet or another GFIC circuit. If it doesn't trip, I'd replace the breaker. It could also be the wiring from that GFIC breaker - especially look for a poorly bonded neutral (white) or ground wire in EVERY junction box. Poorly bonded hots (black) generally don't cause ground faults. Make sure that someone didn't add a GFIC outlet on the same circuit with the GFIC breaker (you can't use the two together).

Good Luck. Let us know what you find.
mattspersic@gmail.com is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-15-2013, 07:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Derkperk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 258
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Hey thanks guys. I have tried different circuits and different cords. I thought about megging it but wasn't sure about the trucks electronics.
Both gfi outlets trip nearly instantly. I always keep the plug covered and stuck back behind the bumper when not in use. What does it take to remove the heater? Is there a c clip or snap ring that holds it in? I'll try and pull it this weekend.
__________________
'05 F250 Lariat Crew Shorty Dark Stone FX4
AFE, MBRP single 304 4"w/ test pipe
ARP's w/ stock gaskets, Air Dog II 165
Driven Diesel Reg Ret fuel Kit
RCD Delete, 180/75's, 68mm VG Blow Jobby
Innovative Diesel Tuned SCT X3
Diesel Site coolant filter, Insight CTS
Overhead Auto Meters, Leveled
Homebrew traction bars
35x12.50x20 ATZ's on Ultra Mako's
Derkperk is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-15-2013, 07:19 AM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Derkperk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 258
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
The moisture thing brings up a good point. We recently moved and I am now parking the truck in detactched, unheated, dirt floor barn. Oh, it's killing me, I know! The dang dirt floor keeps everything so damp in there. I'll put the truck out for the weekend and recheck. Thanks guys.
__________________
'05 F250 Lariat Crew Shorty Dark Stone FX4
AFE, MBRP single 304 4"w/ test pipe
ARP's w/ stock gaskets, Air Dog II 165
Driven Diesel Reg Ret fuel Kit
RCD Delete, 180/75's, 68mm VG Blow Jobby
Innovative Diesel Tuned SCT X3
Diesel Site coolant filter, Insight CTS
Overhead Auto Meters, Leveled
Homebrew traction bars
35x12.50x20 ATZ's on Ultra Mako's
Derkperk is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-15-2013, 08:05 AM   #7 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
ritschner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Burnet,TX
Posts: 1,275
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via AIM to ritschner
You can buy a good 20 amp HD Leviton outlet for $5. If you think GFI,s are troublesome, try Arc-fault breakers.
__________________
White 06 F350 Lariet CC 2WD DRW Tow Boss, Timbren SES, Bilsteins, Smiths Ultimate Bedliner, RK Tool Box, CondensorGuard, IntakeMod, S&B Intake, SEIC, Banks 4"TB, Accufab, Edge Attitude CS, Blue Spring Mod, Rebuilt FICM, STC and Standpipe update, Harpoon Mod, Coolant Filter, Glove Box Light, Hood Insulator, Rewired Mirror Heat, Seat Heater Indicator.
ritschner is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-15-2013, 08:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Derkperk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 258
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I don't have arc faults in the house, thank god, I have heard they can be a bee-atch. Swapping the gfi may be an option...
__________________
'05 F250 Lariat Crew Shorty Dark Stone FX4
AFE, MBRP single 304 4"w/ test pipe
ARP's w/ stock gaskets, Air Dog II 165
Driven Diesel Reg Ret fuel Kit
RCD Delete, 180/75's, 68mm VG Blow Jobby
Innovative Diesel Tuned SCT X3
Diesel Site coolant filter, Insight CTS
Overhead Auto Meters, Leveled
Homebrew traction bars
35x12.50x20 ATZ's on Ultra Mako's
Derkperk is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-15-2013, 10:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
Member
 
mattspersic@gmail.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 47
My Photos: (1)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via Skype™ to mattspersic@gmail.com
Add a circuit.

If you have a blank slot in your circuit breaker panel, it would be quick and easy to just add another breaker (non-GFIC) and run a piece of conduit out to the barn (I think you said it was a barn or dirt floor structure) with a outlet... maybe even branch off and add one at the end of the driveway. It might not meet your local electrical codes, so you may have to remove it if you ever want to sell the house. If you do add a new breaker, pick a leg opposite to some load that will be operating at the same time (i.e.: if the truck is plugged in at night, use the opposite leg that something else that runs at night is on, like a heat tape, refrig, et cetera). You could also get a cheap old Intermatic pool timer and wire it in so you don't heat the truck all night and it just goes on at 3 a.m. before work. I'm looking at building a house this summer and I am absolutely putting outlets under the eves for Christmas lighting and heat tape and at the end of the driveway for the truck and motorhome. I think those are the important things that builders so put in homes. Sorry, I digressed. Good luck.
mattspersic@gmail.com is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties > 6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



Wheel & Tire Center

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:14 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.