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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 01-13-2013, 05:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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In Cab engine assembly

Well, my truck had the head gaskets go so I decided to take on the job of repairing the truck myself. I did not take many pictures of the removal as I was trying to get to the heads quickly and send them off to the shop for repair.

So being fairly new to working on diesels and not wanting to mess this up, I'm going to take it slow, post some pictures of my progress and hopefully get some advice along the way.

So far this is what my truck looks like.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...dscn1067-2.jpg

And the engine bay

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...dscn1059-2.jpg

I hope I'm not in over my head.
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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a picture of the parts littering the floor.
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Seems like you have a nice shop set up there. How did you deal with getting the rear head bolts off ? Seems to be one of the biggest issues to deal with.
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Tom..you didn't say what yr/miles? Point is...due to easy access now, are you planning on changing/upgrading other parts? Best guess is, you've had prior wrenching experience even if diesel limited.

Parts of floor look familiar, except my pile was alot higher. Tec. took most of front end off mine to do h.g. etc.(under warr.) for easier access. That's how done at the time, today don't know? Anyhow, tks. & good luck on you project.

btw..you may have seen, but some good reports here on DIY h.g. install etc. Use search if needed.
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Seems like you have a nice shop set up there. How did you deal with getting the rear head bolts off ? Seems to be one of the biggest issues to deal with.
Thanks, I live in North Eastern Canada so I'm just really happy I have heat. I did a lot of reading on this site and others to figure out how to tackle to rear bolts. For the Drivers rear lower I purchased the snap on tool P/N SRD35 torque adapter. Worked very slick, worth it's weight in gold. The Passenger side I found quite difficult. With the heater box in I could not remove 4 of the bolts. I ended up removing the fender wells to gain access and see how to split the heater box and move the condenser out of the way. I did not want to open my AC and cause more problems for myself. Once the box was split, condenser moved out, then all the bolts were easily accessible.

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Tom..you didn't say what yr/miles? Point is...due to easy access now, are you planning on changing/upgrading other parts? Best guess is, you've had prior wrenching experience even if diesel limited.

Parts of floor look familiar, except my pile was alot higher. Tec. took most of front end off mine to do h.g. etc.(under warr.) for easier access. That's how done at the time, today don't know? Anyhow, tks. & good luck on you project.

btw..you may have seen, but some good reports here on DIY h.g. install etc. Use search if needed.
The truck is a 2006 with 125,000 miles. Funny thing is I have had this truck for about 100,000 miles and it has been babied the whole time, and here I am ripping it apart for a blown gasket.

My plan is to upgrade anything/repair as money permits. There is a lot of space now, and I do not want to go back in. So far my list includes ARP head studs, updated dummy plugs and standpipes, updated STC fitting, Fumoto coolant drain valves, coolant filter, EGR delete. I know there is more, I just can not remember.

I have a small bit of experience on gassers and motorcycles, this is the biggest project I have taken on. I just hope this truck starts up when I'm done

I tried to organize the parts as I took them off. As parts are cleaned, inspected and refinished, I bag them and find a safe spot, like the truck bed.
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Today was the start of cleaning, prepping and painting of some parts.

Here is a picture of the AC unit moved to allow for access.


Engine cleaned and ready for a little paint.
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3c791a0d.jpg

A picture of the frame painted. I used a rust converter the a rust encapsulator from Eastwood, seemed like a good product, will be hitting it with some undercoating.


Painted valve cover. Going with Dupli-color Detroit Diesel Alpine green.


Upgraded from plastic CAC tube to metal


My heads are still out, I hope to get them back next week.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:26 AM   #7 (permalink)
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That thing is going to look marveloius when you are finished, nice to see this kind of thing being done. Didn't read your post that closely but I hope you are replacing the oil cooler at the same time. Mine was done by a shop which did the cab-off procedure and it all turned out well, good luck with yours.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Nice job you're doing there. I did the same job, replacing head gaskets and leaving the cab on. It was quite the experience and I'm glad I took it on. It took some thought and ingenuity to get it right and in the end (ya, some "hiccups") it worked out awesome. I too took many pictures for reference and I wrote down things, as I went along. Good luck with your truck, it's looking great so far.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Turn engine over by hand several revolutions with injectors out after rockers and all valve train is in place. Lifters can extend and not compress when stationary and you can bend pushrods cranking it over. Turning engine over a few turns will let lifters settle and you're good to go.
This is one of the most common reasons to get really frustrated and angry after HG job on a 6.0.
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:52 AM   #10 (permalink)
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T....Curious, prior to teardown, what were symptoms indicating bad h.g.? Did both blow or just one? Tks. for update & looking good (so far).
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:31 AM   #11 (permalink)
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That thing is going to look marveloius when you are finished, nice to see this kind of thing being done. Didn't read your post that closely but I hope you are replacing the oil cooler at the same time. Mine was done by a shop which did the cab-off procedure and it all turned out well, good luck with yours.
Thanks, I will be replacing the oil cooler with a new one, I made sure to do a coolant flush before I started to tear into the engine.

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Nice job you're doing there. I did the same job, replacing head gaskets and leaving the cab on. It was quite the experience and I'm glad I took it on. It took some thought and ingenuity to get it right and in the end (ya, some "hiccups") it worked out awesome. I too took many pictures for reference and I wrote down things, as I went along. Good luck with your truck, it's looking great so far.
Thanks, this is definitely a new thing for me, I'm sure there will be bumps along the way. I hope the more organized I am the better.

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Turn engine over by hand several revolutions with injectors out after rockers and all valve train is in place. Lifters can extend and not compress when stationary and you can bend pushrods cranking it over. Turning engine over a few turns will let lifters settle and you're good to go.
This is one of the most common reasons to get really frustrated and angry after HG job on a 6.0.
Thanks for the tip Jimmy, I will pen this into my build sheet. I have a friend who just recently had Ford do a head gasket job, and he had to take it back in for running rough. Ford replaced the injector, turns out it was a bent pushrod.

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T....Curious, prior to teardown, what were symptoms indicating bad h.g.? Did both blow or just one? Tks. for update & looking good (so far).
The only real symptom I had was loss of coolant. When I was towning my trailer the coolant would leave via the degas cap (externally), in the winter I would lose coolant internally, I would catch this whenever I noticed I had no cabin heat. Everything else was good, i.e deltas. When I took off the L/H head the cylinders were dry and clean, when I removed the R/H head coolant came spilling out and the cylinders were full of coolant.

Still waiting on my heads, so I'm cleaning, inspecting and painting in the meantime.

Here are a couple of pictures of my new oil cooler assembled.





Slow going, but still moving forward.
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Turn crank so no piston is at TDC when putting heads on. If the lifter extends and doesn't go down as you assemble then the pushrod will bend then. Turning over by hand after heads are on, better if left overnight before turning over, will let them bleed down. If you get to a hard spot stop and go backwards almost two revs and then forward again to see if the hard spot goes away via lifter releasing.
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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It has been a while, but I have my heads back with new guides, cleaned, machined and a few new valves.




A couple of images throwing on the springs. I used some engine assembly lube during assembly.






Head finished with all of it's valves.


head taped and ready for paint.
.

Tomorrow will be time to install the head.
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Dieselsite coolant filter,
EGR delete,
Scangage2,
one piece STC fitting,
Updated standpipes and dummy plugs,
'03 metal CAC tube,
OEM finned diff cover,
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Turn engine over by hand several revolutions with injectors out after rockers and all valve train is in place. Lifters can extend and not compress when stationary and you can bend pushrods cranking it over. Turning engine over a few turns will let lifters settle and you're good to go.
This is one of the most common reasons to get really frustrated and angry after HG job on a 6.0.
If you look at the front of the damper there is a dowel pin in it. You want that pin in the 6 o'clock position prior to torquing the heads down. This ensures nice even pull down to where the head is fully seated, since you need to torque the rockers prior to the head studs. That's right out of the factory manual. I'd further recommend, as stated, turning the engine thorugh a couple of revolutions once everything is torqued down to the first torque step, like 80lbs/ft. for studs. This way if there's an issue you can deal with it now. If all's good, and it should be, torque them down the rest of the way. I got that advice from bismic, and am glad I did. I've read a lot of posts my guys who bent pushrods, etc. All avoidable, but that one little step gets left out of so many videos and posts.

To spin the engine I made a plate out of 1/8" or 3/16" plate steel (can't remember/didn't measure it just had the scrap laying around, either would suffice) that bolts to the three holes in the damper, then founder center and welded a junk 1/2" drive socket I had laying around to the center. Took maybe an hour to make. Goes into my toolbox in the 6.0 drawer next to my glow plug boot puller and IPR socket, both of which I also made. Also flanked by the 11/16" 12 point deepwell socket I had to buy for the head stud nuts (no one stocks these here in DE, had to order this) and the 12mm Allen key socket I needed for the stand pipes & dummy plugs (Pep Boys had this, I was freaking amazed).
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Today work progressed well. Although I'm pretty slow at the best of times.

I cleaned out the bolt hole on the rocker boxes with a tap. There was a lot of sand in the holes from when the were blasted.


Exhaust manifold installed on the head. I ordered some exhaust gaskets from Tousley Ford on recommendation from the members on the org. Thanks


Rocker box and lifting eye installed, along with my home made lifting bracket.
[IMG]http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/tom_power1/DSCN1108_zps190c7139.jpg[/url]

Engine ready to receive head. new OEM head gasket, started is installed, transmission fill tube in place
[url]http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/tom_power1/DSCN1107_zps6b102512.jpg[/IMG]

Head installed, ARP studs torqued, fulcrums, pushrods installed, and injectors in place.


A pic of a new oring kit for the injectors.


Next on the list is the HPOP. Orings removed, ready for new ones.
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...psed4e98de.jpg

HPOP with new top oring and one piece SCT.


The passenger side was a lot easier than the drivers side. Before I set the drivers head in place I set in place the exhaust pipe that goes from the manifolds to the turbo. I also remover the wipers, cowlings, and a small bracket that the cowling wire bundle sat on. This allowed me a little more room for the hoist chain.


Here is a pic with the new oil cooler and IPR installed, also in place are the oil rails. The updated standpipes are sitting in the rear hole and dummy plugs in the forward hole. they were later torqued down as I needed a 12mm Allen socket to complete the operation.


I left the glow plugs out and was able to turn the engine by hand for about 3/4 of a rotation. It felt like the engine was hitting a brick. I back it up, then went forward to see if I could make it move further. It took about six tries, but I was able to get the motor the rotated. I continued to rotate for about five turns.
My question here is did I hurt a push rod by forcing the engine back and forth by hand. I'm wondering if I should have waited for the lifter to bleed down.
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ARP Studs,
Scan gage II,
Dieselsite coolant filter,
EGR delete,
Scangage2,
one piece STC fitting,
Updated standpipes and dummy plugs,
'03 metal CAC tube,
OEM finned diff cover,
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