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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 02-24-2013, 07:01 PM   #31 (permalink)
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The thing is Diesels are pretty stout. You can damage stuff that might be catastrophic in a gas engine, just replace what broke and a Diesel's good to go. I remember many times on boats burning a piston and just pulling the one that failed (the good thing about engines that big is they are individual head and cylinder divorced from the crankcase casting so they can be serviced a lot easier), replacing the piston and firing her back up with no problems, banging like a champ again. My grandfather had some Manns in a 60' sport fish he had built that made like 1,100HP each. They'd push that thing to 50 knotts. You could smoke a speedboat in any kind of chop because the big hull cut through it and they'd have to either tack or get beat to hell. Those things were wicked, but I think they ran a little too close to the ragged edge. Weren't super reliable. Knowing what I know now I think they were overfueled.

Back to the matter at hand though, I'd just stay stock. The construction of the pushrod isn't what caused the failure. Set that damper dowel pin at 6 o'clock and install a new pushrod and torque everything down. If you want to be super safe pull all the glow plugs and roll it through like 4 revolutions (that'll get you two camshaft revolutions) and if everything is smooth you should be good to go.

I knew a guy once had a 440 in a Dodge truck that he overrevved and bent a pushrod, pulled it out, hammered it straight, put it back in, and drove the truck like that until he sold it. It actually ran fine, no smoke noise, etc. It all depends on the valve angle. If they're more or less straight up and down in the cylinder like our 6.0s if the piston smacks a valve it just closes it without damage, other than the pushrod which is the fuse that has to give. Another reason to stay stock is to keep that fuse the way it is. If it was less likely to bend you might damage something harder to replace like a lifter or the cam, etc.
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'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:17 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Thanks for your insight TKO, you make a lot of good points for staying stock. I turned it over by hand yesterday hoping that the passenger side would be OK. It seems good.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:07 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Yikes!

Tom,
I have been following your lead. I am going to knock out the head studs as soon as i can take some leave. i was feeling pretty confident about it (even picked out a paint color) until i saw the bent pushrod...
Do you know what happened? i saw that you did the manual revolutions with the engine first.
thanks for the good work!!
Steve
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:00 AM   #34 (permalink)
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What would have been the root cause of the pushrod bending? I've only seen it when valve sticks open and gets into the piston. In this case, would it have been a lifter sticking open and forcing the valve into the piston? If so I think I would do a compression test to see if the valve was bent.

Brian
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:43 AM   #35 (permalink)
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If everything was torqued down without the engine in the proper position, relative to crank orientation, the valve gear does not torque down evenly. The Ford manual tells you how important this is, actually stating that engine damage can occur if this isn't followed. At the proper position you'll notice that the rockers more or less torque down evenly. Out of position you end up with a valve that is all the way open and you try to push it open by torquing the rocker down. It isn't designed to be actuated like this, rather its supposed to opened fully with everything torqued down, so that it comes off the seat gradually as the cam lobe moves the pushrod up in a measured, smooth motion. My guess is that by not observing this the pushrod gets bent slightly on the install, and then fails in short order in operation. Effectively you are putting the pushrod in a vice and tightening the vice down, even with the lifter bled down. All it would take is a little kink in the pushrod. Once that happens the thing is a time bomb, because its been pushed beyond the point where it can simply spring back. Then it is actually more likely to just continue to bend than it is to work properly, because it takes less force to keep bending it than it would to do its proper job. Take a piece of steel tubing and try to bend it. Pretty hard, even for thin wall, small stock. Now put a kink in it by putting it in a vice and bending it just enough to get a bend started. Now try to bend it. Bends like a paperclip. That's what you're dealing with.

Its the same concept as torquing a rocker down on a gasser with non adjustable rockers with the cam up on the nose for that valve. Usually you break the rocker bolt trying to get it torqued. In my younger, dumber days my buddy and I did this on his '95 Cobra because we didn't know what we were doing. Fortunately we got the broken bolt out easy enough and learned our lesson; only torque them while the valve is closed.

The 6.0 has two bolts so its less likely to do that, especially if you draw the rocker down with the head stud first (which you aren't supposed to do either FYI). If everything is right the rocekrs should only be maybe 1/8" off their pads in the rocker carrier prior to torquing them down. They should tighten up easily by hand prior to torquing. Then you torque the head studs down in three steps. I like to torque to the first step, then rotate the engine by hand through like 4 full revolutions to verify that everything works smoothly. If it does I finish the torque sequence for the other two steps. If it doesn't I'd be able to figure out what the issue was prior to doing all that work (yanking that wrench to 245 lbs/ft is rough work even for a guy my size and strength). If you noticed in an earlier part of this thread he was concerned because the engine had a tight spot in it when he went to turn it over. He even questioned if he hurt it. My thoughts were maybe, maybe not. Unfortunately we now know the definitive answer.
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'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:50 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grewells View Post
Do you know what happened? i saw that you did the manual revolutions with the engine first.
thanks for the good work!!
Steve
TKO makes a good point. When I put the motor together, I installed the rocker fulcrums as per the manual with the harmonic balancer in the proper position. The only thing that may make sense is when I placed the push rod it did not sit in the cup, but rather on the edge on the lifter. I also made the mistake of turning the engine over by hand with the oil rails and valve covers on. Thus not allowing me to view the valve train in action. I will be turning the engine over by hand this time without the oil rail or valve cover installed.

A kink makes sense to me. Maybe when it fetched up the first time when I turned it over by hand, it kinked a little. Then while driving the truck, the push rod weakened to critical. I was able to drive the truck for about 20 minutes before the banging started.

I checked the lifter with a boroscope and the piston. it looks good. I will grab a compression tester and check the cylinder tomorrow.

Thanks everyone for the help, I really hope to have her running with a couple of new parts.
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ARP Studs,
Scan gage II,
Dieselsite coolant filter,
EGR delete,
Scangage2,
one piece STC fitting,
Updated standpipes and dummy plugs,
'03 metal CAC tube,
OEM finned diff cover,
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:03 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I was paranoid about that too, because you can't see that the pushrod is in the lifter cup. I wiggled and spun all mine to make sure they were in that cup.
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'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, Warren Diesel 175cc injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:20 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Parts and special tool are ordered, should be here next week. My work has decided to deploy me on a tasking for a week.

When I get back I'll update the process and the outcome.
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Scan gage II,
Dieselsite coolant filter,
EGR delete,
Scangage2,
one piece STC fitting,
Updated standpipes and dummy plugs,
'03 metal CAC tube,
OEM finned diff cover,
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:37 PM   #39 (permalink)
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waiting patiently!
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Old 03-14-2013, 02:52 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Ok back from deployment, parts and tools are in, time to get my truck running.

Here is a picture of the new parts from Tousley Ford next to the bad parts.


When I ordered the rocker arm, it came as an assembly containing a new clip, copper coated ball and a single fulcrum.


Before I installed any parts I spun the engine by hand several times, ending with the dowel hole in the dampner at the 6 o'clock position.

Next I placed the push rod with the copper coating facing up. This time I made sure the push rod was seated in the lifter cup by spinning the rod several times.


The special tool to install the arm. This was a little expensive, but worth its weight in gold. Took longer for me to install the tool then to replace the arm. Super slick. OTC 303-1170 Rocker Arm Release Tool 303-1170


Here is the tool in action, install it in place of the injector, use the injector hold down bolt to secure the tool to the engine. install the plate on top and start cranking.


New rocker arm installed, I used some engine assembly lube to hold the ball in place on the arm, and some lube on the top of the rod. Injector installed with glow plug removed to verify compression. I also turned the engine over by hand and watch the movement of the valve train, just to make sure everything was working properly.


A pic of my remote starter hooked to the battery and the single yellow wire with I think a purple or green stripe, key was left in the "off" position.


A pic of the diesel compression tester and adapter used. OTC 5021, OTC 6660.


More to follow tomorrow. Hope to have it started.
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2006 F-250 SD Lariat,
ARP Studs,
Scan gage II,
Dieselsite coolant filter,
EGR delete,
Scangage2,
one piece STC fitting,
Updated standpipes and dummy plugs,
'03 metal CAC tube,
OEM finned diff cover,
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Old 03-14-2013, 05:01 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Tks for update. Would be great to see your completed report/pics saved & moved to "6L FAQ". Meantime, we're breathless with anticipation awaiting the big start.
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Old 03-14-2013, 05:49 PM   #42 (permalink)
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^^^^^ AND HOW!
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:36 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Here is a pic of the compression tester and adapter installed on the engine. Easy install, worked pretty good.


Checked the compression and got 380. This was consistent with the other cylinders.


With the compression test done, I remover the injector and replaced the o rings. I probably did not need to do this step, but I was concerned with the copper seal.


After I installed the injector I bumped the engine over with the remote starter to make sure the valve train worked smoothly. Oil rail installed, along with standpipe and dummy plug.


Valve cover on, showing the bolt pattern.


CCV and FICM brackets installed.


It is starting to come together. FICM installed.


Hose to route the CCV to the back of the truck. I used a 3/4" PVC 90* plumbing elbow. In this position I found it was very difficult to install the air box piping properly. I eventually rotated the elbow towards the firewall to gain the necessary clearance. I'm going to clean it up a little better later on.


Installed the degas bottle, coolant hoses, and lastly the battery cable. Jumped inside and hoped for the best. Hit the starter, took about 2x 10 seconds of cranking and she fired right up. Sounded nice, ran smooth.

Time for a test drive. I took the truck out, let it warm up, checked the engine for leaks then proceeded to drive. After a 10 min easy drive at 25 MPH, I took it up to 45 MPH for 20 mins. Pulled over, checked for leaks. Ran awesome, better than new. Next I hit the highway at 60 MPH for about 20 mins. I think we are good to go.

I decided to leave the fan stater off, so that If I ever have to change the serpentine belt on the road it would not be a PITA. To take care of the electrical connector I cut a small slit in the rubber weather stripping, pushed the connector in, drilled two small holes and used a zip tie to secure the wiring away from the blades. Seems to work pretty good.


Here is a pic of the finished engine bay.


I'm so happy to have my truck back up and running, She runs better than new, gas mileage is back up and no coolant puking.

Thanks to everyone who helped me take this on, this forum is awesome. I would not have attempted this without the great people on this site. I now know my truck better and look forward to more improvements. I can 100% say that in cab head studs are doable with patience, the right tools, and of course beer.
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2006 F-250 SD Lariat,
ARP Studs,
Scan gage II,
Dieselsite coolant filter,
EGR delete,
Scangage2,
one piece STC fitting,
Updated standpipes and dummy plugs,
'03 metal CAC tube,
OEM finned diff cover,
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:52 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Early on your said " I just hope this truck starts when I'm done ? " Big relief & job well done eh! tks.
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Old 03-15-2013, 03:04 PM   #45 (permalink)
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It is a huge relief, and thanks to everyone for helping me out.
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2006 F-250 SD Lariat,
ARP Studs,
Scan gage II,
Dieselsite coolant filter,
EGR delete,
Scangage2,
one piece STC fitting,
Updated standpipes and dummy plugs,
'03 metal CAC tube,
OEM finned diff cover,
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