Cab Removal for Head Stud Install - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 12-21-2008, 01:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cab Removal for Head Stud Install

Hi everybody, I have a 03 F250 6.0 with the stretched head bolts/ bad gaskets. I have done a lot of research on the topic over the last month and have ordered a majority of all of the parts to repair the blown gaskets. I fully intend to swap the head bolts with the ARP head studs. I saw something today on another forum that made me cringe; someone said that the cab has to come off for the head stud install.

It makes plenty of sense to me that more clearance is required with the head studs as the heads now guide onto the block with the studs going through them. Whereas with the stock head bolts, the heads come in and out any which way is easiest and safest without the cab getting into the way.

I am a confident enough mechanic to get the job done, I was attempting to cut down on costs by avoiding having a shop or dealership do the work. I enjoy working on the truck and I won’t be rushed through the whole process at all, I just lack the tools needed to pull the cab.

Is it completely necessary for the cab to be lifted at all, let alone be removed, in order to install the head studs? Or can this job be completed without having to move the cab at all?

Thank you very much for your time and help and I greatly appreciate whoever responds.
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Old 12-21-2008, 05:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Remove the cab or remove the motor, your choice. Some have reported doing it without removing the motor or cab but in my opinion your access is so limited that it would be difficult to do a good job. The parts are heavy and the 250ft. lbs. of torque would be hard to apply while standing on your head.
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Nope, you don't have to remove the cab but it would make things alot easier.

There's only a few of the studs that will cause you trouble and they are the ones on the back. I think there was 3 on the left side and 1 on the right side that I had issues with. All you need to do is not install those studs into the block, just drop them down into the head and secure so they are about 1/2" from coming out of the bottom and sit the head down. Then you can tighten down the studs into the block.

I would imagine that you could do all of the studs this way if you wanted to as the dowels are going to line everything up anyways.
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Old 12-22-2008, 07:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I would pull the cab. Breaking loose the head bolts is difficult with the cab in the way. Re-torquing the new studs would be difficult with the cab in the way.
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Old 12-22-2008, 07:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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My ARP studs are being installed today. THe cab is up the in the air!
It's actually a whole lot easier if you can do it that way.
If you don't have the big lift, you might be able to get it done with 4 heavy-duty floor jacks and some jack stands. I've heard about some other guys doing it that way. (you'll need some cribbing to get the support for bringing it up high enough)
You really need a little extra clearance to get the back studs installed and tightened properly.
The 245lbs is some serious torque!
The guy doing mine had the cab in the air in about an hour or so.
I helped in advance by disconnecting all the gages, back-up camera, aux tank pump wires, and alarm wiring. All the after-market stuff that would really slow the guy down.
The heads are heavy! It's a lot better to be able to get in there to remove them...
Good luck!!
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Old 12-22-2008, 08:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It can be done as per the workshop manual, with the cab on. Taking the cab off makes things 10 times easier but requires a lift or alot of ingenuity. Once the evaporator case is removed the right side is a breeze. The left side takes a little effort but can be done without hacking anything up.
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Old 12-22-2008, 08:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I thought I was going to have to have head work donw on my Excursion and was concerned about the dealership removing the entire body form the frame. I was assured that on Excursions, they do not pull the body or the motor, so YES it can be done, but it is more difficult...
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Old 12-22-2008, 09:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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As per the workshop manual, the living document that dictates in detail on how to perform repairs, outlines the procedure clearly for cylinder head removal on all F-series, Excursions, and E-series. For 2003-2007 F-Series and Excursions within those years. Nowhere does it state to remove the cab in any other those cases. The only time engine removal is required to service the cylinder heads is on an E-series. Starting with the 6.4L in 2008, a cab off procedure was introduced BUT there are cab on versions of all repairs that would require the cab to be off a 2008 and up F-series. Alot of techs choose to remove the cabs on 6.0's, but that's to their discresion. If a dealer tells you that the cab HAS TO COME OFF a 6.0, tell them to read the workshop manual. I can e-mail you the workshop manual section in PDF format if you have questions.
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knightgang View Post
I thought I was going to have to have head work donw on my Excursion and was concerned about the dealership removing the entire body form the frame. I was assured that on Excursions, they do not pull the body or the motor, so YES it can be done, but it is more difficult...
And this is what it looks like when they do it the easy way. Easy access, easy to work on.

Head Gaskets and Studs Photo Gallery by Steve Orel at pbase.com
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Old 12-23-2008, 02:31 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks

I really appreciate all the replies, it helped quite a bit.

Because of the lack of resources and free cash to spend on a shop I am goign to take a stab at doing it without removing the body or engine. Like a few of you said, its possible to do it this way as the ship manual says so. I'll be starting this friday, right after christmas! Hopefully it goes well and if not I'll be back up here getting your guys' opinions and help.

Thanks again, I really appreciate it!
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Old 12-23-2008, 04:55 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Make sure that you have the heads checked for warpage. good luck!
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Old 12-23-2008, 06:00 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chillinthemost View Post
Remove the cab or remove the motor, your choice. Some have reported doing it without removing the motor or cab but in my opinion your access is so limited that it would be difficult to do a good job. The parts are heavy and the 250ft. lbs. of torque would be hard to apply while standing on your head.

You deff can do heads without removing the cab...you have to remove just about everything around the motor INCLUDING the heater/ac (hint..hint)
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Old 12-23-2008, 06:02 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by macmaniac1 View Post
Make sure that you have the heads checked for warpage. good luck!


x2 GET THEM HEADS CHECKED!!!
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Old 01-02-2009, 02:14 AM   #14 (permalink)
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You can do the job without removing the cab. I've seen it done in a timely fashion by breaking down the HVAC box on the passenger side and then removing the motor mounts and tilting the engine forward by letting it down with a jack. WHOLE LOT EASIER than removing the cab! Plenty of room to work on the headbolts.
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:06 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jbrou27 View Post
You can do the job without removing the cab. I've seen it done in a timely fashion by breaking down the HVAC box on the passenger side and then removing the motor mounts and tilting the engine forward by letting it down with a jack. WHOLE LOT EASIER than removing the cab! Plenty of room to work on the headbolts.

When I heard about removing the cab to work on the heads I immediately thought about removing the engine mounts and lowering the engine for enough clearance. To me, this seems like it would be the easiest. however, I'm no tech nor have I done any work on my PSD, so I could be wrong. I'm sure there is someone that has tried this with or without success.
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