Can I Install New Head Studs With Out Removing Head - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 11-08-2008, 07:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Can I Install New Head Studs With Out Removing Head

Can I install new head studs with out removing the head and replacing the head gasket? I have a 05 F-250 with a 4" strait pipe exhaust egr up pipe delete, CFM intake elbow and running SCT Street Tune. I have been experiencing coolant blow off from the over flow tank when pulling loads between 7-12K no whistling from the over flow tank. Itís only loosing about 1\2 gallon every 750 miles. So can I just change the studs to ARP or is the head gasket bad.

This is my first time posting. I searched to see if I couldnít fine an answer already out there didn't see one. Any suggestions would be much appreciated
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Old 11-08-2008, 08:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you've already blown past the head gasket then it should be replaced. A couple of people on the board have swapped to studs without pulling the heads but their gaskets weren't leaking.
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Old 11-08-2008, 08:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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There are arguments on both sides of this issue. I personally would NOT replace head bolts with studs without changing the head gaskets. My argument is that you need to clean the threads in the block and you can't do that with the heads in place. Also IMHO you "lose the seal" that the original torque provided. But then again I been "turnin wrenches" for a "while" and it wouldnt be much more than a weekend "project" for me, and thats the way I was taught..."untorque head bolts= new head gaskets" ..

Just my opinion
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Old 11-08-2008, 08:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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There are arguments on both sides of this issue. I personally would NOT replace head bolts with studs without changing the head gaskets. My argument is that you need to clean the threads in the block and you can't do that with the heads in place. Also IMHO you "lose the seal" that the original torque provided. But then again I been "turnin wrenches" for a "while" and it wouldnt be much more than a weekend "project" for me, and thats the way I was taught..."untorque head bolts= new head gaskets" ..

Just my opinion
Yes. But if you just do one bolt at a time, the head should stay sealed shouldn't it? We did a 6oh on a genset that way. One bolt at a time torqued to, I can't remember what, maybe 150. Then after the last one we torqued in sequence up to what-ever the studs required. Maybe 250ish. I can't remember the numbers right now. But I agree with someone above. If the gaskets are already compromised then they need replacing.
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Old 11-08-2008, 09:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Replacing bolts with studs without changing the gaskets is just asking for leaks in my opinion, especially when you obviously already have a leak, which is evident by your coolant loss.
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Old 11-08-2008, 09:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Yes. But if you just do one bolt at a time, the head should stay sealed shouldn't it?
It might....... but I would hate to find out otherwise while tugging up a hill a ways from the house or dealer. For me it's worth the peace of mind, but like I said I don't pay labor, just parts ( and those at a discount )
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Old 11-08-2008, 11:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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And if your gaskets are already blown, there's a 99% chance your heads are warped. So they need to come off.

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Old 11-09-2008, 09:51 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Ok you convinced me ill do the head gaskets. Not real familiar with diesel engines though. So is there any thing else I should Replace while I am there (without spending 5k) I have heard of injector cups some times leaking is this a common problem?
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Old 11-09-2008, 10:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Again there will be many opinions on this. I would get a "head set" and replace anything that the gasket set allows. TAKE YOUR TIME and if you can get a set of service manuals great!! It will have all the information you need. If there is something you can't figure out..ask here and it will be answered!!!
IDK about the leaking injector cups, some one more familiar will probably chime in
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Old 11-09-2008, 08:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yes. But if you just do one bolt at a time, the head should stay sealed shouldn't it?
You would not be torquing the head in the correct pattern.. Most item should be removed in reverse torque order..

I have had those caps leak on the top of injector but I cant remember if they are available separate.
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I just finished this task--removing cab, to get heads off. Definitely have the heads checked out for warpage and leaks. If one is warped beyond .005"--needs to be replaced. I had one with a leaking fuel injector sleeve, all four sleeves replaced (4.00ea) and head was resurfaced (.004"), however the other one had a crack in the fuel injector port above the sleeve--replaced. Word of wisdom from this experience--be sure and check all push rods are inserted properly before you put the high pressure oil rail back on by manually turining the motor over--I did not do this step and ending up bending one push rod, cost me 250.00 for a new injector I did not need.

Also, I found this link on the forum that was most valuable during my repair...

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pu...20/S5OMAIN.HTM

good luck.
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Old 11-09-2008, 10:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Yep, I agree definately pull the heads and take them to a machine shop to be checked. Once you get as far as replacing the bolts, there's not much more time involved in pulling the head off. I would be nervous as hell trying to replace one bolt/stud at a time as even the workshop manual says that if one bolt is removed they all need to be replaced along with the gasket.

I just got done doing oil cooler/egr cooler/head gaskets. My truck had 151k miles on it so I went ahead and repalced the water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt, and glowplugs while I had it all out. I was going to replace the starter and alternator too but ran out of funds.

FYI-After replacing everything and cranking and cranking it finally started after building up enough pressure to fire the injectors. I thought I was good, but the next time I went to start it it took 20-30 seconds to start. I thought I nicked an oring or something and had a high pressure oil leak. Then I ran across a TSB related to hard starting/long cranking times after servicing the high pressure oil system. I can't find it right now but basically it says that it's related to trapped air in the HP oil system. The solution is to take it out and run it hard from 25MPH to 50MPH twelve times. It worked for me.
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Old 11-09-2008, 11:00 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Also, I found this link on the forum that was most valuable during my repair...

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pu...20/S5OMAIN.HTM

good luck.[/quote]



Does anyone have the link for the 2003 service manual?
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Old 11-10-2008, 09:44 AM   #14 (permalink)
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https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pu...20/S3OMAIN.HTM
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Old 11-11-2008, 08:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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thanks, this is a great help. I could not find the ICP in there though, but with the direction with pictures that were posted, I should be able to tackle it.
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