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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 01-09-2011, 12:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Changing Thermostat

I have a 2004 F-350. I think I need to change my thermostat. In the winter I have been running a cold front since new. In the summer time my normal temp is 182. This morning I had to go to work for an emergency. I did not have the truck plugged in. It was 22 degrees. I started it and left. I got 10 miles from home and my temps were 172. I slowed down to go through a town and by the time I got through it my temp was 166. When I got to work, which is 18 miles my temp was 177. My question is, what do I need to do this change? I was going to do it this morning and then I read that I might have a thermostat that is all one peice and come out with the housing. Is that true? I have a warranty on the truck so maybe I should just let the dealer do it. The only thing is I have to pay for diagnostics and that will probably be 80 bucks. Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-09-2011, 01:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
My question is, what do I need to do this change? I was going to do it this morning and then I read that I might have a thermostat that is all one peice and come out with the housing. Is that true?
Yes its one piece. Should need a 8mm socket with swivel and extension and something to take the upper hose clamp off. And of course drain your radiator down. T-stat is around $30ish dollars. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.
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Old 01-09-2011, 02:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169 This is the part # for a 06 i would think it should be the same for an 04.
2 stroker
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Old 01-09-2011, 04:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Well, the ford dealer was not open so I got one from National Auto. It really don't matter since it seems to be beyond my abilities to change it and it is going back. I have replaced whole engines in cars, but this looks impossible. There is a bracket on top of the thermostat that holds the exhaust back pressure sensor. Then there is the fuel line that is right above the back nut. Even with the swivel socket there is not enough room to get on this nut. I do not even want to get into removing fuel lines. It looks like it goes to the dealer.
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:12 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I had the thermostat changed today, but was told I need to change my oil and egr coolers. My engine temp is now 191, but the oil went up to 205. I made an appointment to get them changed. I guess I should get a coolant filter. Would that have helped?
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:30 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004fx4 View Post
I have a 2004 F-350. I think I need to change my thermostat. In the winter I have been running a cold front since new. In the summer time my normal temp is 182. This morning I had to go to work for an emergency. I did not have the truck plugged in. It was 22 degrees. I started it and left. I got 10 miles from home and my temps were 172. I slowed down to go through a town and by the time I got through it my temp was 166. When I got to work, which is 18 miles my temp was 177. My question is, what do I need to do this change? I was going to do it this morning and then I read that I might have a thermostat that is all one peice and come out with the housing. Is that true? I have a warranty on the truck so maybe I should just let the dealer do it. The only thing is I have to pay for diagnostics and that will probably be 80 bucks. Thanks for the help.

change the thermostat is pretty easy but with the warranty you may want to let the dealer do it and flush the cooling system to have it on record
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:38 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by timbo2 View Post
change the thermostat is pretty easy but with the warranty you may want to let the dealer do it and flush the cooling system to have it on record

It seems my warranty does not cover any coolers. Only the water pump, so it is out of pocket. I just wonder if I should invest in a coolant filter for the future.
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Tele/HTD/lighted mirrors
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yea i would put a filter on your coolant and dump the ford gold for ELC.. where are you at 2 stroker?
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06/10 ARP studs, turbo back silverline, new head gaskets, new oil cooler, upgraded turbo drain, fuel pressure reg upgrade, coolant filter, high idle mod, harpoon mod, pre-pump spin on fuel filter,ELC coolant, 6.4 banjo bolts, CCV reroute.

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Old 01-11-2011, 12:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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It seems my warranty does not cover any coolers. Only the water pump, so it is out of pocket. I just wonder if I should invest in a coolant filter for the future.
if its been in there awhile i would still have it flushed
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Old 01-11-2011, 04:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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if its been in there awhile i would still have it flushed
This may help you make up your mind



This is very important information check link at bottom



Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwar
Does the lack of silicate have any adverse affects??? Not to ask a dumb question but why would ford continue to use a coolant that causes serious issues with its engines???

Does the 6.0L come from the factory with the ford gold or something from international???

(QUOTE) Posted by PGreenSVT at Powerstroke.org

Can't explain away Ford's logic. International uses Fleetrite ELC. Think about it. Whats is another silicate? Sand immediately come to mind. What is sand? It's an abrasive. Besides that it turns to a gell from the heat as it goes through the egr cooler trying to carry off the heat from high egt's resulting in the sludge that clogs the oil cooler. There is a substanial body of evidence supporting this.

Not having silicates is a positive thing. It has no adverse affects. ELC coolant is good for 300k miles without any additives and extendable to 600k with an additive pack at 300k. The new Delo ELC is good for 750k miles or 8 years extendable to 1 million miles.

I think it pretty much speaks for itself.
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I'm on a campaign man. That Gold cxxp is killing our trucks and people need to know. It is the cause of the biggest problems we have with the 6.0 and the bad reputation the 6.0 has. And it is pretty cheap and easy to eliminate. People should know this. So yeah, I'm beating that drum. The other drum is the need to monitor ECT and EOT before you blow your egr cooler and head gaskets.

I just did a flush with Fleetrite Restore, VC9, lots of flushing, installed a coolant filter, and switched to ELC. Im curious to see what my coolant filter will look like after the first 500 miles, I know there is still most likely some cxxp in there still as I still have the stock EGR and oil cooler at 34k miles but I doubt there will be anywhere the abount that we see out of most of the posts with opened up coolant filters.

I recently installed the DieselSite.com coolant filter kit on my 2006 6.0. The kit came complete with everything you need and also came with the new billet aluminum filter head, looks really sharp.

PGreenSVT, dude you need to change your screen name to "ELC FOR LIFE!"

But I agree I just switched to ELC also, either way it cant be any worse than the gold, for those of you that have doubts just scrape the bottom of your degas bottle, thats the same cxxp thats clogging your oil cooler. When I did my flush I pulled my degas bottle and scrubbed it with a bottle brush, that cxxp is like glue.
also read this




(QUOTE) Posted by PGreenSVT Powerstroke.org





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is the deal with the 6.0. Any good tuner (person writing your tunes) is not going to give you a tune that is going to tear up your truck. There are trucks all over the place running 400-420 rwhp with 750-800 rwtq all day long without problems.

Yes the 6.0 is known to blow head gaskets. This is why it happens. The Ford Gold coolant contains silicates. The silicates are not able to handle high EGT's generated by a good load or relatively high boost when run through the EGR cooler. They break down into a jell like sludge and fall out of suspension. This crud gets caught up in the tiny coolant passageways of the oil cooler. As the cooler clogs up it restricts coolant flow to the egr cooler. Now the egr cooler doesn't have enough coolant to carry off the heat generated by high EGT's. The limited amount of coolant in the egr cooler flash boils causing high pressure in the cooling system and the truck pukes coolant from the degas bottle due to the pressure. (it has to go somewhere)
Your uninformed Powerstroke owner is not monitoring his coolant temps and oil temps so he doesn't know whats going on and he keeps driving it this way. The problem get worse, the pressure causes the egr cooler to rupture. Now the egr cooler is leaking coolant into the intake manifold which then runs into the cylinders. Again the high combustion temps cause the coolant to vaporize. This causes unacceptably high cylinder pressure, the TTY head bolts stretch due to the additional pressure and there go your head gaskets.

Ok now you know the problem. Here's the cure. Get a good engine monitoring solution like the Edge Insight so that you can monitor your ECT and EOT. If those temps get more than 15* apart at normal cruising when at normal operating temperature your oil cooler is clogging up. Rebuild it now to prevent all that down stream damage from occurring. Flush that Ford Gold coolant cxxp out of your engine with a couple bottles of Restore. This is made specifically to clean out that silicate residue. Now refill it with a silicate free Cat EC-1 rated ELC coolant. This removes the silicates that clog the oil cooler from the equation. If you live in an area where you don't have smog inspections delete the egr system. If you can't delete it replace the egr cooler with the cooler manufactured by Bulletproof Diesel. This is vastly superior to the Ford oem egr cooler and it will not fail on you. If you find that you need to replace head gaskets replace the TTY head bolts with ARP studs and use black onyx (Victor Reinz) head gaskets. If you have to replace the egr cooler always replace the oil cooler. That is the source of the problem.

Now that you have addressed the common problems that scare the hell out of people, get an SCT tuner (i like the X3) and install some custom tunes and drive the heck out of it. DO NOT baby it. The Powerstroke hates this and will rebel with turbo issues.

Turbo issues are also common repair points with the 6.0. People like to complain that it's because the VGT turbos are pieces of junk. This is not so. The VGT vanes in the turbo need to be exercised regularly. This means making them go through there full range of motion. So put your foot in it regularly and let is see some full boost runs. That will keep your VGT vanes from getting all sooted up and freezing up because of the soot. Again, that is what happens when you baby it. Put you foot in it and you will have less problems. Lay out of it and try to milk it for mileage like you would a gasser and you're going to have turbo issues. Don't let it sit either. That is also the kiss of death to the turbo. The unison ring rusts up and again you have turbo problems. So now that you know you need to give your turbo a regular work out to keep it happy, give it a proper cool down as well. Just whipping into your parking place and shutting it down will lead to coking the bearings and again major turbo issues. Running a good synthetic oil will help here immensely because it handles heat so much better and resists coking. But always let your turbo have time to cool down. This is one of the reasons you need a Pyrometer (EGT gauge), Let the EGT come down to 350* before shutting your truck off. This only takes a couple of minutes, especially if you take it easy on it for the last couple minutes of your trip. If this is too much hassle for you get a turbo timer that will automatically delay shutdown when you turn off the key to allow the turbo to cool down.

Injectors. Fords injection system HEUI fires the injectors with High Pressure Oil, to the tune of 4,000psi at Wide Open Throttle. Maintenance is critical here so you can not let your oil maintenance slide like you can on a gasser. It will kill your injectors. The injectors also are known to suffer from something that we call stiction. That is when the oil side spool valve of the injects hangs up or sticks when cold until the truck warms up. I believe this is caused by varnish buildup that is common to dino oils, especially those containing paraffin. Using a good synthetic oil will take care of that because it actually cleans the engine as it lubricates. If you do find yourself with some injector stiction add a couple of bottles of Rev-X to your oil. It has cleared up 99.9% of the trucks it has been used on. 2 bottles run around $70. A new injector is about $250-$290. Be anal about keeping your oil clean and fresh and changing your fuel filters regularly. The other thing that kills injectors is low fuel pressure. The fuel pressure needs to stay above 45psi at all times and is typically set around 52 psi from the factory. Well the Factory fuel pressure regulator spring is weak and looses it's tension over time and can't maintain adequate fuel pressure. There is an updated rebuild kit that uses a better, stronger spring. Installing this spring will bring your fuel pressure up to about 62 psi and solve that. Get a fuel pressure gauge. It's important.

So that covers the frequent complaints with the 6.0. They are all well known at this point as are the solutions. Does it suck we have to fix Ford's blunders? Heck yes it does. But again we know how and once done you will have a very reliable robust truck that is well worth the effort. So address the issues as you can and enjoy your truck. It is a dynamite vehicle. I love mine.


If you like pictures have a look here.

Replaced oil cooler still difference in temps - Page 21 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum


ELC is the coolant recommended and used by International for this engine. .


Coolant Flush for changing to ELC

Drain coolant by removing lower radiator hose. Drain block from plug on drivers side of the block. Remove the thermostat. Replace plug in block and put lower hose back on. Put thermostat housing back on without thermostat. Fill with distilled water. run for 5 minutes then drain as above..Fill and run 5 more minutes drain. Put in 3/4 to 1 gallon of Restore an top with distilled water. Drive it for an 60-90 minutes then drain. Flush 2 times with distilled water or whatever it takes to come clear. Put 2 qts of VC-9 or 3/4 to 1 gallon of Restore+ cost less and fill with distilled water. Drive it for about 60-90 minutes. Drain and flush after. Flush 3 more times with distilled water untill it come out clean. Replace thermostat or put in a new one. Put hose back, make sure block plug is tight. Add 3.5 gallons of ELC concentrate and top off with distilled water. Make sure to run engine for 5 minutes between flushes to circulate the water good. Have heater on set to hi while doing this to flush the heater core too. new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169 04 and 05 may be the same #


Delo is the one that i have good for 750k





ChevronTexaco Delo Extended Life Coolant System, Coolant/Antifreeze Categories: Fluid
Material Notes: Features
Delo Extended Life Coolant/Antifreeze products are heavy duty engine coolants that use a patented organic corrosion inhibitor technology called carboxylates. The product line consists of Delo Extended Life Coolant/Anti-Freeze Concentrate, Delo Extended Life Prediluted 50/50 Coolant/Anti-Freeze and Delo Extender.
Delo Extended Life Coolant/Antifreezeconcentrate is ethylene glycol based and contains Chevron`s patented carboxylate technology. This product does not contain conventional inhibitors like silicates, nitrates, amines, phosphates or borates. Delo ELC concentrate can be used for initial fill or top up but it must diluted. It should be used full strength for freeze point adjustment.
Delo Extended Life Prediluted 50/50 Coolant/Antifreeze is a 50/50 mixture of Delo Extended Life Coolant/Antifreeze concentrate with deionized water for freeze protection down to -37C and boil over protection to 129C with a 15 lb pressure cap. Delo ELC Prediluted 50/50 is recommended for top up and can be used for initial fill.
Delo Extender should be added to Delo ELC at 500,000 miles/10,000 hours/4 years to reach a coolant service life of 1,000,000 miles/20,000 hours/8 years. The amount of Extender needed is based on the volume of the cooling system. Extender should only be added once during the service life of Delo ELC.
Applications
The patented carboxylate technology in Delo ELC can be used in on-road, off-road and stationary engine applications. Delo ELC protects all cooling system components and has proven over years of field testing and customer use to improve water pump life and improve heat transfer. The inhibitors in Delo ELC do not readily deplete and for this reason there is no need to add SCAs or test the coolant/antifreeze as is required when using conventional coolants requiring SCA additions.
In service Delo ELC is recommended for use out to 750,000 miles/15,000 hours/8 years. If even longer service intervals are desired then the addition of Delo Extender at 500,000 miles/10,000 hours/4 years will extend the service life to 1,000,000 miles/20,000 hours/8 years. When using Delo ELC it is not recommended that supplemental coolant additives be used. If an accidental addition of SCAs should happen it will not create any operational issues. Additions of SCAs to Delo ELC increases the overall cost of maintenance and adds inhibitors that are not needed for ELC to perform at maximum levels of protection. Delo ELC products are dilution tolerant up to 25% percent with other non-Delo ELC products or water. Dilution of more then 25% will reduce the extended life properties of this product. When using Delo ELC it is recommended that the product freeze point be maintained between -12F and -62F. If the freeze point is higher or lower than the range specified it is an indication that water or concentrated coolant has been added to the system. To adjust freeze point for over or under concentration use the tables at the end of this document.
2 stroker





__________________
06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
Edge Insight CTS with Expandable pyro
AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge 0-100
Sinister Fuel Pressure Adapter
Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
WOT 58lbs Idle 62-64lbs Just Right
HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade
Ford Cetane boost every fillup
Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Dieselsite Coolant Filtration System
Dieselsite Boots
Delo ELC Coolant
Tow Command
Upfitter Switches
Pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
Roll-N-Lock bed cover
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB (sold it)
1700 Super Chip
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp-4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
Tymar Intake
A pillar EGT,Boost,Trans
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