Hi guys, my friend Jim and I addressed these very issues not long ago. Jim took his 05/6.0 Excursion in to his local mechanic to have all of his leaf springs changed and Bilstien shocks put on, he picked it up and drove to my house about 90 miles one way. We were doing some things at my house and I needed to go to the parts store, he wanted me to try out his new suspension, turn the key WTS, "cliiiick", dead Optimas less than a year old! Pulled off the ground cables and load tested both batteries, passenger side kaput, driver side okay but put on charge while we go exchange the dead one. New bat in, hook up grounds and fires right up but the alternator is only putting out about 12.8 volts, not enough to maintain the batteries. Back to the parts store, test alt guy says it is okay, we buy a new one anyway and put it on, 13.1 volts without anything but the engine running, not enough in my book, 13.6-14.2 is what I look for. A bit of research turns up Ford for whatever reason decided to put 60 amp alternators on everthing a long time ago, if you have one with a higher output it was ordered special like an ambulance or put on aftermarket. With a bit of reasoning for wattages I saw a way to solve the barely enough battery charge with a higher output alternator. A place local to Jim had a 200 amp alternator for a good price and we put it on with an extra charge cable (to carry the higher amperage) that a local stereo guy made for $10, problem solved. Now when driving after start up the voltage is up and as you drive the voltage varies very little.
The 6.0 belt is a major job to change, the tensioner has a "lock", to use it pull the belt up like you mean it and on the front of the tensioner is a small button to push in to lock,( ask to see one at you local parts store off the engine if it will make it easier for you to locate the button). The belt change will be easier if you have a lift as you need to work from the top and bottom, you can do it on the ground if you have 2 people one on top and one diver. The fan shroud is one of the biggest obstacles to deal with, it has the places to be cut but when Jims mechanic did it he did not use them.
Hope this helps.
Here is a 200 amp for a good price on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290366769866&ssPageNam e=STRK:MEWAX:IT
2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
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