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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super-Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

       
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Old 10-21-2009, 05:02 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I already know what wrong with it, though.


You ready for it?



















........................

















IT'S A !!!!



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Old 10-21-2009, 08:35 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strokin' 6.0 View Post
Too late on that, Mike, but no worries, I'm reading some good posts, which give me good ideas to suggest to the mech, when I see him. Of course, he'll look at me and say, "Well, since you seem to know it all, you fix it", and I'll shut up at that point.
Make sure your mechanic is aware of this FORD procedure:



My dealr tech said he had never heard of it
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File Type: pdf Cold Start Service.pdf (154.8 KB, 37 views)
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Old 10-21-2009, 09:52 PM   #33 (permalink)
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My 07 is at dealer right now for a cold start, rough running cold issue.

They found the FICM to be bad and are replacing it (under warranty), should get it back tomorrow, we'll see if they got it solved.

Doug
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Old 10-22-2009, 02:47 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Mike, thanks for the .pdf...I'll hand it to the mech.

Went out today to start the truck, after it had been plugged in....now it doesn't start at all....it still turns over, but it just doesn't fire anymore.

FICM?

Injectors?

HPOP?

ICP?

Who the hell knows? I'll find out November 6th.
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Reman'd Turbo @54,814 miles

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Old 10-22-2009, 10:22 PM   #35 (permalink)
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[quote=LocoMike;1797339]
Quote:
Originally Posted by King Rancher View Post

Humm, it's got me thinking. It is a fact that pressure is not an indicator of viscosity (flow).

Ford has my truck right now and is charging me $ 150 for just a diagnoses (I am totally out of ideas) and that is after $ 126 for a total reflash

Make ya a deal......

Report back on your oil change and I will report back on what Ford says.

Glad I have my AE to weed out what I expect them to say


Well after 3 days at Ford dealer and $300 later it is worse than ever. They reflashed all the modules with the latest Ford software and spent 2 hrs on the Ford IDS system.

Basically they said we don't know what it is and can't fix it cause your EGR delete is screwing up thier diganostic software.
I paid the bill, grabbed the keys and ran like hell.

I am changing back from Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 to straight mineral based Rotella) tommorow. reason being is beacuse it is the ONLY thing that has changed since 03 with no symptoms..............................
Has anyone had any troubles with the Synthetic Rotella 'Diesel' ????
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:29 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LocoMike View Post
Has anyone had any troubles with the Synthetic Rotella 'Diesel' ????
No. And I doubt it is your problem either, since it normally helps with the very symptoms you are experiencing. I still believe it is an injector issue.... Sticking spool valves, scored plunger and barrel, something like that....
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:31 PM   #37 (permalink)
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[quote=LocoMike;1798117]
Quote:
Originally Posted by LocoMike View Post



Well after 3 days at Ford dealer and $300 later it is worse than ever. They reflashed all the modules with the latest Ford software and spent 2 hrs on the Ford IDS system.

Basically they said we don't know what it is and can't fix it cause your EGR delete is screwing up thier diganostic software.
I paid the bill, grabbed the keys and ran like hell.

I am changing back from Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 to straight mineral based Rotella) tommorow. reason being is beacuse it is the ONLY thing that has changed since 03 with no symptoms..............................
Has anyone had any troubles with the Synthetic Rotella 'Diesel' ????
WELL........ NEW INFORMATION:

I drained the Synthetic Rotella 15W40. REPLACED with Motorcraft 15W40.

The truck started with no problems (but it was above 70 outside today). I will report back when it is a "cold start", basically below 50 F.

Still have problems at WOT (lots of BLUE smoke) but I am working on that.
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Old 10-23-2009, 01:05 AM   #38 (permalink)
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[quote=LocoMike;1798122]
Quote:
Originally Posted by LocoMike View Post

WELL........ NEW INFORMATION:

I drained the Synthetic Rotella 15W40. REPLACED with Motorcraft 15W40.

The truck started with no problems (but it was above 70 outside today). I will report back when it is a "cold start", basically below 50 F.

Still have problems at WOT (lots of BLUE smoke) but I am working on that.


So it is an improvement .. I am glad it actually did something in the right direction. Evryone on here was kind of cutting me down about it, except for you LOCO .. thanks and I hope it actually works.Its amazing that thin(synthetic) oil flow might be the cause of it. and incase you are under warranty(100,000 engine) don't tell your dealer you were running synthetic, because depending on how hard up they are they might call you out on that if something happens. by the way, where you from. your having weather like me. I am in Tennessee
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Old 10-23-2009, 07:40 AM   #39 (permalink)
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hey dougjpr how was your truck acting when you took it in. when the ficm is bad how does your truck act or does it not start at all? thanks.
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Old 10-24-2009, 01:15 PM   #40 (permalink)
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[quote=King Rancher;1798190]
Quote:
Originally Posted by LocoMike View Post



So it is an improvement .. I am glad it actually did something in the right direction. Evryone on here was kind of cutting me down about it, except for you LOCO .. thanks and I hope it actually works.Its amazing that thin(synthetic) oil flow might be the cause of it. and incase you are under warranty(100,000 engine) don't tell your dealer you were running synthetic, because depending on how hard up they are they might call you out on that if something happens. by the way, where you from. your having weather like me. I am in Tennessee
sorry again for highjacking the post

Thanks to all !!! Sure is nice to have folks to run things by and all of your input is really apprecciated.

My 'theory' is the Rotella SYNTHETIC was foaming. I love Rotella oil and ran it for 130K miles in my prior 7.3. Just think there was a problem with the anti foaming additives in the Rotella Synthetic. There was an immediate change when I went back to the Motorcraft oil. Please don't turn this into 'an oil war forum', just relating to MY 6.0 fiasco.

I use an AutoEngenuity program and my DESIRED Injector HPOP gets matched by the ACTUAL HPOP pressure so I rule out pump, leaks and regulator.

My AE Tool just datalogged that under high RPM (injectors firing fast) the main power from the FICM is dropping down to 46 Volts. Ford spec calls for 48 to 50 volts. FYI... my problem now is a stutter/stumble/ misfire with no codes anytime above 2500 RPM. aka FICM working harder/firing faster.

I am now looking for the best price on a NEW FICM to obatin, get flashed then send to Inovvative for the custom program.

I am still open to all the good ideas and info you folks send my way !!!!!

AND PLEASE DON'T FORGET THE GENTLEMAN WHO BEGAN THIS POST
Attached Images
File Type: jpg FICM Power at 2500 RPM .JPG (157.4 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg FICM WOT.JPG (131.7 KB, 5 views)

Last edited by LocoMike : 10-24-2009 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 10-24-2009, 05:17 PM   #41 (permalink)
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[quote=LocoMike;1797356]
Quote:
Originally Posted by King Rancher View Post

Humm, it's got me thinking. It is a fact that pressure is not an indicator of viscosity (flow).

Ford has my truck right now and is charging me $ 150 for just a diagnoses (I am totally out of ideas) and that is after $ 126 for a total reflash

Make ya a deal......

Report back on your oil change and I will report back on what Ford says.

Glad I have my AE to weed out what I expect them to say
__________________________________________________ ______________
NEW INORMATION:

After 3 days at Ford dealer and $300 later it is worse than ever. They reflashed all the modules with the latest Ford software and spent 2 hrs on the Ford IDS system.

Basically they said we don't know what it is and can't fix it cause your EGR delete is screwing up thier diganostic software.
I paid the bill, grabbed the keys and ran like hell.
__________________________________________________ ______________
I am changing back from Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 to straight mineral based Motorcraft tommorow. Reason being is beacuse it is the ONLY thing that has changed since 03 with no symptoms.......................
Has anyone had any troubles with the Synthetic Rotella 'Diesel' ????
__________________________________________________ ______________
NEW INFORMATION:

I drained the Synthetic Rotella 15W40. REPLACED with Motorcraft 15W40.

The truck started with no problems (but it was above 70 outside today). I will report back when it is a "cold start", basically below 50 F.

Still have problems at WOT (lots of BLUE smoke) but I am working on that.

Thanks to all !!! Sure is nice to have folks to run things by and all of your input is really apprecciated.

My 'theory' is the Rotella SYNTHETIC was foaming. I love Rotella oil and ran it for 130K miles in my prior 7.3. Just think there eas a problem with the anti foaming additives in the Rotella Synthetic. There was an immediate change when I went back to thee mororcraft oil. Please don't turn this into 'an oil war forum', just relating to MY 6.0 fiasco.


I use an AutoEngenuity and my DESIRED Injector HPOP gets matched by the ACTUAL HPOP pressure so I rule out pump, leaks and regulator.

My AE Tool just datalogged that under high RPM (injectors firing fast) the main power from the FICM is dropping down to 46 Volts. Ford spec calls for 48to 50 volts. FYI... my problem is now a stutter/stumble/ misfire with no codes anytime above 2500 RPM.


I am now looking for the best price on a NEWFICM to obatin, get flashed then send to Inovvative for the custom program.

I am still open to all the good ideas and info you folks send my way !!!!!

Last edited by LocoMike : 10-24-2009 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 10-24-2009, 05:49 PM   #42 (permalink)
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No buzzing sound

Normally, when I KOEO, I hear a buzzing sound for a second or two, which is the Injector Electrical Self Test. Today the weather is warmer, so I went out to see if the truck would start.....no buzzing noise=no Injector Electrical Self Test.....

=FICM is dead?
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Oxford White/Arizona Beige
King Ranch Package
Herrin Hauler Package
5R110 Torqshift
4.10:1 Dana 80 Trac-Lok
9,200lbs GVW
Reman'd 6.0L @43,956 miles
Reman'd Turbo @54,814 miles

Wishin' I still had my '05 2500HD CTD Ram
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Old 10-24-2009, 06:37 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strokin' 6.0 View Post
Normally, when I KOEO, I hear a buzzing sound for a second or two, which is the Injector Electrical Self Test. Today the weather is warmer, so I went out to see if the truck would start.....no buzzing noise=no Injector Electrical Self Test.....

=FICM is dead?

Check the fuse. Your FICM could be dead (should be 48 to 50 vdc) output if recieving battery voltage input. Or....... your fuse could be blown. Of course a bad FICM could blow the fuse as well !!!

Here is a schematic........

Last edited by LocoMike : 10-24-2009 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 10-24-2009, 07:57 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Checked all three FICM fuses...#20 and #103 under the dash are okay, and the 10a mini fuse under the hood is okay too. I ran the dash test....oil pressure is 235psi after cranking, fuel pressure is 49psi, the tach is over 100rpm when cranking, batteries are 11.9v when cranking and 12.65v when not cranking.

Indications, in my opinion, are leading to the FICM. The lack of injector buzzing is telling me that there is no electricity going to the injectors=dead FICM, I think.
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2004 F-350 CC DRW LB FX4 4x4
Oxford White/Arizona Beige
King Ranch Package
Herrin Hauler Package
5R110 Torqshift
4.10:1 Dana 80 Trac-Lok
9,200lbs GVW
Reman'd 6.0L @43,956 miles
Reman'd Turbo @54,814 miles

Wishin' I still had my '05 2500HD CTD Ram
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Old 10-24-2009, 08:03 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strokin' 6.0 View Post
Checked all three FICM fuses...#20 and #103 under the dash are okay, and the 10a mini fuse under the hood is okay too. I ran the dash test....oil pressure is 235psi after cranking, fuel pressure is 49psi, the tach is over 100rpm when cranking, batteries are 11.9v when cranking and 12.65v when not cranking.

Indications, in my opinion, are leading to the FICM. The lack of injector buzzing is telling me that there is no electricity going to the injectors=dead FICM, I think.
Not sure what oil pressure the "dash test" is capturing but it is either way low for the HPOP (needs to be at least 500psi to start) or way high for the low pressure side...
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