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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super-Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

       
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Old 10-24-2009, 08:34 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by teamroper60 View Post
Not sure what oil pressure the "dash test" is capturing but it is either way low for the HPOP (needs to be at least 500psi to start) or way high for the low pressure side...
Yeah, couldn't tell you. I don't know where that oil pressure is measured. Maybe that's what the oil pressure goes down to, after cranking. When I turn the engine over, the screen on the odometer goes blank, so I don't know what the oil pressure is, while it's cranking.
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Old 10-24-2009, 10:44 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Strokin' 6.0 View Post
Checked all three FICM fuses...#20 and #103 under the dash are okay, and the 10a mini fuse under the hood is okay too. I ran the dash test....oil pressure is 235psi after cranking, fuel pressure is 49psi, the tach is over 100rpm when cranking, batteries are 11.9v when cranking and 12.65v when not cranking.

Indications, in my opinion, are leading to the FICM. The lack of injector buzzing is telling me that there is no electricity going to the injectors=dead FICM, I think.

My bet is you are correct. This drawing/clip of the FICM may help you spend the $$$$ knowing ya did the right thing
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Old 10-25-2009, 07:41 AM   #48 (permalink)
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This sounds like what mine started doing 2 days ago. Starts loud then rough idle and if you give it gas it misses until it warms up a little then it is fine, happens only in the morning when its cold. Where can I find a FICM my truck is 30K out of warrantee. Seriously thinking of dumping this thing
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Old 10-25-2009, 12:41 PM   #49 (permalink)
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This sounds like what mine started doing 2 days ago. Starts loud then rough idle and if you give it gas it misses until it warms up a little then it is fine, happens only in the morning when its cold. Where can I find a FICM my truck is 30K out of warrantee. Seriously thinking of dumping this thing
Lots of used FIMC's on EBAYfor $ 250 to $ 350. Problem is you have no idea if they have seen the low vehicle voltage which is death to FIMC or how long they had they crappy Ford flash which was death to FIMC.

I am gonna bite the bullet and buy a new one from Ford at $ 650 to $ 750 can't find a new one anywhere on the net.

Remember, it still has to be programmed = more $$$$$

If I had it to do all over again and could swing the payment of a new truck I would dump it !!!!

And I been a Ford man for a longggggg time.
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Old 10-25-2009, 02:02 PM   #50 (permalink)
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...I am gonna bite the bullet and buy a new one from Ford at $ 650 to $ 750 can't find a new one anywhere on the net...
Mike,

My understanding is that Ford does not sell new FICMs, only reman'd ones. I know Siemens makes the FICMs for Ford, so I wonder if you can actually get a new one from them?

And, yeah, you still have to shell out the dough to have it reprogrammed. I hear that Eric at Innovative is the man to see about that...wish I still lived in Maryland; I was a stone's throw from him.
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2004 F-350 CC DRW LB FX4 4x4
Oxford White/Arizona Beige
King Ranch Package
Herrin Hauler Package
5R110 Torqshift
4.10:1 Dana 80 Trac-Lok
9,200lbs GVW
Reman'd 6.0L @43,956 miles
Reman'd Turbo @54,814 miles

Wishin' I still had my '05 2500HD CTD Ram
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:11 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Strokin' 6.0 View Post
Mike,

My understanding is that Ford does not sell new FICMs, only reman'd ones. I know Siemens makes the FICMs for Ford, so I wonder if you can actually get a new one from them?

And, yeah, you still have to shell out the dough to have it reprogrammed. I hear that Eric at Innovative is the man to see about that...wish I still lived in Maryland; I was a stone's throw from him.

Yep. You ARE correct. Ford charges $ 675 for a reman, with a $ 100 core charge for return of old one. THEN it needs to be programmed. Ford will charge $ 130 to flash it (If they have your truck) or $ 1100 to remove, install and flash.

I am shipping mine to Eric at Innovative Diesel for $200 custom tune without all the ford junk programs. Then I will install it Myself.
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:19 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Since I have the Chrysler extended warranty (you read it right), AND I'm low on cash right now, I don't have the luxury of sending the new FICM off to Eric...I wish I did. Maybe I can talk my independant mech into sending it to Innovative and just include the charges into the warranty repair.
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2004 F-350 CC DRW LB FX4 4x4
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King Ranch Package
Herrin Hauler Package
5R110 Torqshift
4.10:1 Dana 80 Trac-Lok
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Reman'd 6.0L @43,956 miles
Reman'd Turbo @54,814 miles

Wishin' I still had my '05 2500HD CTD Ram
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Old 10-27-2009, 01:40 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Strokin' 6.0 View Post
Since I have the Chrysler extended warranty (you read it right), AND I'm low on cash right now, I don't have the luxury of sending the new FICM off to Eric...I wish I did. Maybe I can talk my independant mech into sending it to Innovative and just include the charges into the warranty repair.

Good thinking. SOMEBODY has to program the FICM. If your independent mechanic can't do it it will have to be done by either FORD or Eric. Fords algorithms are full of power robbing, fuel eating garbage. Erics are not.

If he wants FORD to do it they will insist on having the entire truck (tow bill + programming).

It would be cheaper on your warrenty company to send it to Eric IMO.
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Old 10-28-2009, 10:42 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Cold starting and blue/white smoke

I had and have been having the same problems - in the morning, regardless of the outside temp, winter or summer, I have a cold start problem. This past June I took the truck to the local FD and they diagnosed with a bad FICM. This actually worked and fixed the problem on the blue/white smoke - for a while. I still have the cold start problem where it will crank and crank and...crank then fire up. If I don't let it warm up for 3-5 minutes before leaving the driveway it'll blow that blue/white smoke until it is completely warm. I took it back to the dealer, they kept the truck overnight and told me they couldn't find anything wrong. They actually told me that they had too many man hours into diagosing the problem... I thought that was what I was paying for (even though it's under warranty). The cold start issue is really gettin on my nearves. Since I still have two years left on the warranty I guess I'll let the damn thing blow up and have them replace my motor.

2006 F350 Lariat Crew Cab, 64,000 Miles
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:42 AM   #55 (permalink)
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I had and have been having the same problems - in the morning, regardless of the outside temp, winter or summer, I have a cold start problem. This past June I took the truck to the local FD and they diagnosed with a bad FICM. This actually worked and fixed the problem on the blue/white smoke - for a while. I still have the cold start problem where it will crank and crank and...crank then fire up. If I don't let it warm up for 3-5 minutes before leaving the driveway it'll blow that blue/white smoke until it is completely warm. I took it back to the dealer, they kept the truck overnight and told me they couldn't find anything wrong. They actually told me that they had too many man hours into diagosing the problem... I thought that was what I was paying for (even though it's under warranty). The cold start issue is really gettin on my nearves. Since I still have two years left on the warranty I guess I'll let the damn thing blow up and have them replace my motor.

2006 F350 Lariat Crew Cab, 64,000 Miles

I say find a new damn dealer....what a crock of horse hockey...too many hours into diagnosing the problem...who do these dealerships think they are? I always hear the complaint from service managers that the service department doesn't get paid what it should, when a warranty repair comes in...what I read into that is that they get paid what the Warranty folks say the repair manual says the job should take, and not however many hours they spend on it. That would motivate me to fix it right the first time, so it wouldn't keep coming back. It's one of the reasons I stopped going to a Ford dealer and started going to an independant mech....my truck was spending weeks at a time sitting in the dealer's lot, because they had too many other trucks with recurring problems too.

Sorry, I just get hot under the collar, when I keep hearing these stories.
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2004 F-350 CC DRW LB FX4 4x4
Oxford White/Arizona Beige
King Ranch Package
Herrin Hauler Package
5R110 Torqshift
4.10:1 Dana 80 Trac-Lok
9,200lbs GVW
Reman'd 6.0L @43,956 miles
Reman'd Turbo @54,814 miles

Wishin' I still had my '05 2500HD CTD Ram
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:45 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MortgageGuru View Post
I had and have been having the same problems - in the morning, regardless of the outside temp, winter or summer, I have a cold start problem. This past June I took the truck to the local FD and they diagnosed with a bad FICM. This actually worked and fixed the problem on the blue/white smoke - for a while. I still have the cold start problem where it will crank and crank and...crank then fire up. If I don't let it warm up for 3-5 minutes before leaving the driveway it'll blow that blue/white smoke until it is completely warm. I took it back to the dealer, they kept the truck overnight and told me they couldn't find anything wrong. They actually told me that they had too many man hours into diagosing the problem... I thought that was what I was paying for (even though it's under warranty). The cold start issue is really gettin on my nearves. Since I still have two years left on the warranty I guess I'll let the damn thing blow up and have them replace my motor.

2006 F350 Lariat Crew Cab, 64,000 Miles

IMO it suree "sounds like" your glow plugs are not working. Here is a PDF on how to check them. Also a simple test is to put a clamp on ampmeter around the harness at each lower side of your valve pan covers (going to the glow plugs). It should pull high amps >50 to 150 when key come son per timing scheme in the PDF.

Your GPCM can be bad and throw ZERO codes.
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