Considering trading an '08 Dodge Hemi for 6.0L F250/F350? Good or Bad? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Considering trading an '08 Dodge Hemi for 6.0L F250/F350? Good or Bad?

Hi guys, my husband and I own an 08 Dodge 1500 Hemi, its a good truck but we are purchasing a camper, and while the camper is only about 6000lbs, we have considered just moving to a larger truck to have for the long run if we upgrade or for pulling other things in the future. We found an 07 F250 with the 6.0 we are interested in. Now we have owned a 7.3 and they are the best engine gas/diesel in my opinion, but have heard nothing but horror stories on 6.0. I wanted to know how true these are? Would this be a good move or bad? The one we are looking at has some records with it and at 97k miles it had an EGR valve replaced for what its worth?
Let me know thoughts. Thanks.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 03:00 PM
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The "horror stories" are , in my opinion, overblown...but when they happen can be EXPENSIVE.
I have owned mine for 3 years now. an 04 f350 CCLB 4x4.
what has been done is:
EGR delete **
new FICM (fuel injection control module)
blue spring mod **
coolant filter **

the items marked with ** are items that all 6.0's should have done for reliability.

you could call your local diesel shop and get prices to have these items done or if somewhat handy you can do them yourself. items like the coolant filter system is pretty easy. the EGR delete and blue spring mod are a bit more involved.

Head studs people say are "mandatory" but if you keep the boost numbers in check, as in NO TUNERS on it...run it normal and monitor your engine numbers you do not need head studs... mine doesn't have them and i have 165k miles and I tow an enclosed trailer weighing about what your camper will weigh...and many out there do not have studs...but many do.

If you were to put a tuner with high HP tunes and try and run up your local mountain pulling your camper at 80 mph...i believe you could expect problems without new head studs.

If you can know what to look/feel for thru this and other powerstroke forums you can make a wiser choice.
If you know someone with a powerstroke, trake them with you on a test drive...bring there monitoring system and hook it to the new truck and watch those numbers.
coolant vs oil temps (aka deltas)
look at the degas (coolant overflow) bottle...look for bubbles indicating head gasket issues.

others will chime in i am sure.
i just touched the tip of this iceburg.

but overall i would not avoid this truck only because it is a 6.0 liter.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 03:12 PM
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bottom line, you're taking on a hobby. If that's what interests you, certainly you can make sure it's not going to have the common issues or fix them if they're already there. But paying somebody else to do it is too expensive and hard to find somebody you can trust to do it right, so if you don't want to spend time learning about/working on your own truck, then you should avoid the 6.0L (or 6.4L either).

Anybody considering "EGR Delete" should be aware that it is illegal for on road use anywhere in this country. Of course there are lots of them out there but you should be aware when you delete, you ARE breaking the law. If you get inspections, or if you ever want to sell it, you may need to put it back in.

When treated to fix the problems, it's an awesome engine, and the Ford truck is going to make you smile after that piece o' crap Dodge.

As for the V10... if you really need the truck to work, don't think twice about gas, it's just not gonna make you happy. That's why no industry application requiring real work uses it. Diesel all the way. I even found a VW TDi before they found a way to "fix" the DieselGate cheating, and the dealer will never get their hands on it...

Last edited by Idahoser; 05-18-2017 at 08:39 AM.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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which is the lesser evil - 6.0 or 6.4? We really just wanted the V10 but they are few and far between anywhere our way.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 06:15 AM
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The 6.0 is by far the lesser evil. The 6.4 has all the same issues as the 6.0 (its basically the same engine) with more emissions junk hanging off it to fail and cause problems, and it has a more complicated turbo system to fail and cause problems.

Regarding the EGR delete, the only state I've ever heard of having an issue with it is CA. In CA they do a visual inspection under the hood and the inspectors know what they are looking for. Emissions vary state to state. Many states have no emissions testing for vehicles over 8600lbs GVWR. Even if they test emissions the EGR not working won't matter as it does nothing at idle. The only concern is visual inspection, and you really have to look to tell if the cooler is there or not, and most importantly you have to know what you are looking at. Technically emissions are a Federal standard, but since the Federal government doesn't want to spend any money on enforcement they have left it up to the states to run their own emissions testing programs. I'm all for clean air, but if you know how the EGR works you realize that it is in operation almost never, and it can potentially destroy an engine. To my mind its unfair that the end user has been saddled with this. To each his own, but mine is gone.

Regarding head studs. They are mandatory if you want to prevent a failure. Tuning may exacerbate the issue, but the underlying issue is a design flaw that allows the heads to lose their clamp load on the block over time, allowing the gaskets to seep under load. There are only 10 bolts holding each head on the 6.0. The same as a small block Ford, the same as a GM LS series engines. Those gas engines have head gasket issues when people put forced induction on them, and those as gas engines running maybe 7-11psi of boost. Diesels make a lot more cylinder pressure because there is more energy in Diesel fuel, and then you are putting near 30psi on top of that. If IH had used studs maybe it would have been okay, but instead they used Torque To Yield bolts to make assembly line production easier. Those bolts are installed in a state where they are in essence partially failed already. This is why they cannot be reused. I'm not going to get into a metallurgical discussion here, but the bottom line is that after so many cycles the bolts fatigue and fail to spring back when loaded and bye, bye head gasket. There's no set amount of time this will take. I've seen them blow at 40k miles; I've seen it take 220k. But fail they eventually will.

Should you buy a 6.0 truck? Personally I think yes, because the irrational fear people have of these engines has ensured they sell cheap. You need to buy it knowing that to make it truly reliable you may need to sink another $5-$6k into it. But from '03 onwards there's nothing else I can recommend that has the capabilities of a 6.0 truck that is going to be any better. The newer Diesels are just much more complicated that the old ones and you're never going to get that same level of inherent reliability from something that has twice as many parts. Emissions and the quest for power has mandated electronic engine controls, etc. But its not all bad. The SD series of trucks is a great platform. Its tough and truly heavy duty, not just a 1/2 ton with a bigger engine and axles as they used to be. The transmission is awesome in these trucks. They have good brakes. They have a lot more comfortable interior. As a two rig they are great.

On the V10, pass. Basically they make no power AND get bad gas mileage. Not a good combination in my book. They also sometimes shoot spark plugs across the engine compartment just for fun like all the modular engines.

'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, RCD 175/30 injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 07:00 AM
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What TKOPerformance said...I second that.

its a good motor.
may have issues at some undetermined point in time (or may not),
no emmissions crap,
comfortable,
you can get them cheaper than others,
powerful and reasonably quiet (vs a 7.3 or older cummins of the same vintage)
EGR delete & Federal emmissions rules...well unless you live in Cali (or some other intrusive inspection state) i would not give that a second thought.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 08:06 AM
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TKO nailed it.

Plan to spend some more money on the 6.0 if you get it.

As for the V10 i can speak from personal experience. The truck is under powered for a super-duty application and fuel millage is horrendous even when not pulling anything. Going from the 5.7 Hemi to a F250 V10 you will be underwhelmed at best. The only application I'd consider a V10 for is a dedicated tool body and there are better platforms than that out there. In addition to this the heavier 6.0 will handle(sway/stopping) better because it has more weight to command the load.

I see you have had a 7.3 before which means you are familiar with the powerstrokes but I believe you will be surprised at how much more stopping power the 6.0s and newer have. I love my ol' 7.3 but i wish it had the stopping power of the newer trucks.

1997 F250 Heavy Duty 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 Crew Cab, SRW, Automatic E40D
BTS Valve Body
Tru-Cool Trans Cooler
4" Turbo Back Diamond Eye Stainless Exhaust
Tymar Air Intake
TS Six Position Chip (stock,High Idle, +50, +75, +100, +120)
Tymar HPX line in hand but no installed yet
285/75r16 BFG All-Terrain KO2
ARE LSII Custom Color Tonneau bed cover
Color match Rhino spray in bed liner
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Better To Be Tried By 12 Than Carried By 6
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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I really appreciate all the help so far guys! I just want to throw out there the trucks that are in the running that we are considering trading for and I just want to see what you guys think:

2006 F250 SB 6.0 Lariat crew
2006 F350 LB 6.0 Lariat crew
2009 GMC Sierra Denali AWD 6.2 crew
2013 Chevy Silverado 1500 Crew 5.3 (3.42 gears)

What do you all think? Our first goal was to trade up to a crew from our quad cab, 2nd was maybe more pulling power, which not sure if the Sierra or Silverado really are but they say they will do 9800 whereas our dodge says 8200.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 09:28 AM
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Will this truck be a daily driver? Or Just a weekend tow animal?

1997 F250 Heavy Duty 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 Crew Cab, SRW, Automatic E40D
BTS Valve Body
Tru-Cool Trans Cooler
4" Turbo Back Diamond Eye Stainless Exhaust
Tymar Air Intake
TS Six Position Chip (stock,High Idle, +50, +75, +100, +120)
Tymar HPX line in hand but no installed yet
285/75r16 BFG All-Terrain KO2
ARE LSII Custom Color Tonneau bed cover
Color match Rhino spray in bed liner
------------------------------------------
Better To Be Tried By 12 Than Carried By 6
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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Mainly towing on weekends. We drive it around town some through the week also.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 09:46 AM
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Preference in this order (all things being equal; relative price/condition/millage):

2006 F250 SB 6.0 Lariat crew - will pull and stop it like it is nothing

2006 F350 LB 6.0 Lariat crew - will pull and stop it like it is nothing but is a lot more vehicle to maneuver and park

2009 GMC Sierra Denali AWD 6.2 crew - will pull it okay but it will be noticeable when accelerating, also GMs are lighter thus handling and cross winds will be hairier

2013 Chevy Silverado 1500 Crew 5.3 (3.42 gears) - I wouldn't wont to pull it far or often with this truck. It would be ok to pull it to the local camp ground once in a while but it doesn't have near the weight and stopping power as the 6.0's


All that said it comes down to your budget, condition, and cost of ownership. With the diesel you are looking at $120+ each service vs $45 each service with the gassers.
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1997 F250 Heavy Duty 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 Crew Cab, SRW, Automatic E40D
BTS Valve Body
Tru-Cool Trans Cooler
4" Turbo Back Diamond Eye Stainless Exhaust
Tymar Air Intake
TS Six Position Chip (stock,High Idle, +50, +75, +100, +120)
Tymar HPX line in hand but no installed yet
285/75r16 BFG All-Terrain KO2
ARE LSII Custom Color Tonneau bed cover
Color match Rhino spray in bed liner
------------------------------------------
Better To Be Tried By 12 Than Carried By 6
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 12:33 PM
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I would be looking for a truck with the major updates already done. They are not that rare.

Updates need to be listed with the 6.0 descriptions.

ie: You can check for studs by looking along lower edge of valve cover.

Get a scan gauge 2 and check engine data on test drive. you want a 7-10 degree oil to water temp delta.

Find the "bullet proof" list on here for a check list.

If it has studs there is a good chance the rest has been corrected too.

Studs are the big expense. I probably wouldn't buy without that ? have to be below book to consider without studs.

2005 F-350 PSD 5R110W SRW CC LB FX4 244k Lariat
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.SCT Livewire w/ pyro, Ed's FICM w/40 tune, T-6, Delo ELC, ARP Studs, EGR delete, STC mod, Oil cooler replaced, Coolant Filter, Blue Spring mod, Stand pipes, Turbo oil supply & drain upgrade, Steel CAC pipe to manifold IPO OEM plastic (yes it cracked) replaced a boot here and there, at this point all injectors have been replaced with OEM rebuilds, all glow plugs and both GP harnesses, BW Pocket Flares, Rebuilt trans.

Last edited by rideraa; 05-19-2017 at 07:46 AM.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Relentless007 View Post
I see you have had a 7.3 before which means you are familiar with the powerstrokes but I believe you will be surprised at how much more stopping power the 6.0s and newer have. I love my ol' 7.3 but i wish it had the stopping power of the newer trucks.
I don't understand when you say stopping power. All the 6.0L and 7.3L SRW trucks have the same braking system, so should stop in basically the same distance given the same truck/trailer combination weight. [on edit] Oh, now I understand. You're comparing to an OBS 7.3L, which doesn't have 4 wheel disk brakes like the SuperDuty trucks do.

To throw in my 2 cents on the OP's topic. Trading a Dodge in on ANYTHING would be an upgrade.

But I agree with Relentless007's order of preference on the trucks being considered. If you've got an acre and a half to turn around in, the the LB Crew would work, but only if you really need the long bed.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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), AIS,
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regulated return,
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Last edited by klhansen; 05-18-2017 at 07:42 PM.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 05:29 PM
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I also agree with Relentless007's order of preference. Bottom line, nothing pulls like a Diesel, and combined with the 5R110 trans the other vehicles are not even really in the same league with the 6.0 trucks, especially for towing. The GMs have weak kneed front axles. If you ever have to work them hard they blow the housings apart. The 6.0 trucks have a solid front axle. Not ideal for handling and ride quality, but nearly indestructible.

'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, RCD 175/30 injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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I found an 08 F250 with the 6.4L, that one would be worse over a 6.0? Are there any other trucks that I should look at for towing? Doesn't have to be diesel.
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