6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
thats kinda funny i am having a no start when warm and am trying to figure out how to test mine as well! what MY is your truck?
2003 ford Excursion 6.uh-oh, i had put alot of time into the thing over this last weekend new oil cooler and fuel pump cleaned my EGR cooler that i was going to delete but it was a bullet proof so i left it alone and reconditioned my turbo the only thing i didn't replace was my HPOP was driving and it was running good but then out of no where it just DIED the devil took my truck again lil bastard!!! i pray it's just the IPR valve cause i really don't want to take the truck apart again i was using muscles i never knew i had leaning over that engine compartment.. well lets hope we can get assistance
ya i hear ya on the muscles i have been on mine (early 04 sd) now for 3 days and my chest hurts from leaning on the truck. but oh well...... no i have been doing some resarch on the ipr bench test and it sounds like it cant really be done out of the truck. Its sounds to me like an air test, take out the icp hook up your air listen for the leak( if you have one) then have some one turn on the key and the valve should open if you dont hear a difference its because you have a bad ipr... i tihnk thats how it works anyway if i'm wrong someone will step in. good luck and post your results
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- Early 04 F250 PSD Lariet 4x4
- Mile Marker hubs
- Dimond Eyes 4 inch turbo back
- Muffler delete
- ADP basic solutions kit
- Blue spring/ 6.4 banjo bolts
- Scan gauge II
- New HPOP
- Sinister coolant filter kit
- Rotella T6
okay so i just figured it out and its just like i said leave the ipr in take two wires and will work...... strip the ends ball it up take off the wiring harness push the ends of the wire in the valve make sure they are not touching i looped the other two striped ends and put the negative on d/s batt and hooked up my ait to the icp added air i could hear the air i touched the + wire to the +terminal and boom! no air so now i know the ipr valve is good so i have to keep hunting.
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- Early 04 F250 PSD Lariet 4x4
- Mile Marker hubs
- Dimond Eyes 4 inch turbo back
- Muffler delete
- ADP basic solutions kit
- Blue spring/ 6.4 banjo bolts
- Scan gauge II
- New HPOP
- Sinister coolant filter kit
- Rotella T6
okay so i just figured it out and its just like i said leave the ipr in take two wires and will work...... strip the ends ball it up take off the wiring harness push the ends of the wire in the valve make sure they are not touching i looped the other two striped ends and put the negative on d/s batt and hooked up my ait to the icp added air i could hear the air i touched the + wire to the +terminal and boom! no air so now i know the ipr valve is good so i have to keep hunting.
well if thats not your issue then it has to be HPOP other than a messed up wiring harness the only thing that would stop the injectors from firing is the FICM, wiring harness IPR valve and the HPOP... is there a way to test the HPOP? i just read the same thing about the testing the IPR valve so we're in the same boat. i'm just hoping mine is the IPR PLEASE let it be that
i dont know of a way or read of a way to test a hpop system i think its one of those if its bad its bad kind of things
I just don't want to tear everything out again... it's not hard but dang laying over that compartment makes for a long day if all i had to do was take the turbo out i would be fine but the intake, turbo, oil filter housing and then bam $500 later for the part... how about the HPOP orings? i have this style HPOP
Here is how I tested my HPOP. I purchased a test guage(5000psi), hose and fittings(hydraulic grade). From Pure Diesel.com($80). Pulled the ICP and attached the test gauge. I had changed the pigtail on my IPR so I used the old connector and put a momentary switch on it and attached to 12vdc. Used a remote start button from NAPA to crank the engine. Actuated the IPR(no more than 30 sec.) and read the guage while cranking. You need at least 500 psi to start.
If you have low readings you will have either a leak in the hp oil system, bad IPR/electrical or a bad HPOP.
Make sure your oil level is up. These trucks have an oil level sensor on them. (won't start if you have low oil)
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2003 F350 King Ranch, crew cab, long box
Mods: 4" Exhaust to the back, Edge Attitude tuner, Toyo tires, Custom front bumper
Here is how I tested my HPOP. I purchased a test guage(5000psi), hose and fittings(hydraulic grade). From Pure Diesel.com($80). Pulled the ICP and attached the test gauge. I had changed the pigtail on my IPR so I used the old connector and put a momentary switch on it and attached to 12vdc. Used a remote start button from NAPA to crank the engine. Actuated the IPR(no more than 30 sec.) and read the guage while cranking. You need at least 500 psi to start.
If you have low readings you will have either a leak in the hp oil system, bad IPR/electrical or a bad HPOP.
Make sure your oil level is up. These trucks have an oil level sensor on them. (won't start if you have low oil)
I know the oil level is fine i just did alot of work on my truck swapped oil cooler and cleaned my bulletproof egr cooler flushed and oil change new filters all the way around. this happened after
Quote:
Originally Posted by trukdoc
or thin oil or really dirty oil or a restricted oil filter...
just changed the oil, flushed coolant and replaced all fuel and lube filters (engine and tranny) after replacing everything the only thing i didn't touch was the HPOP
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lil bastard!!! i pray it's just the IPR valve cause i really don't want to take the truck apart again i was using muscles i never knew i had leaning over that engine compartment.. well lets hope we can get assistance
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