EGR Bypass Kit - is it the only Solution?

[DunaticSuzyQ]

Has anybody had a resolution to their burning coolant problems? I ask because, sadly, mine is doing the same thing now that I'm 60 days out of the 5 year warranty (about 86,000 miles)!

Coming home from a trip pulling our fifth wheel 250 miles to our usual camp spot, we smelled coolant burning. We stopped and found it slightly wet at the degas cap and along the side. Bought a new cap at NAPA, started off, and it smelled worse! A turbo whine too for about 1-2 miles.

Got home, replaced the whole degas bottle thinking perhaps a new cap, put the pressure on a seal in the bottle or something, took the trailer back out -- 15 miles from home there is the smell again while pulling the trailer. We don't see any white smoke, no green moisture in the exhaust, no coolant in the oil. We only have standard Ford gauges -- dummy gauges so they only go so high and stop -- no over-heating or red light/service indicator coming on. Minimal loss to coolant (not even really detectable except for the obvvious smell).


I'm concerned about putting in at the dealership for fear it will become one of their usual hunting expeditions -- on my nickel this time and Las Vegas in general is not the most reputable kind of place to have work done. Can anybody recommend good honest 6.0 diesel mechanic in Las Vegas? Or, at least, what should I make sure they are checking when I bring it in to the dealer?

Radiator?
EGR cooler?
Head gasket?
Head studs?
Oil cooler?

I've heard about having a EGR bypass kit installed because this is perhaps a known issue with Fords without a permenant fix, but would rather just have it fixed and operate like a SuperDuty Towing Machine I thought I bought.

Besides, if we bypass, how to get a smog test for dmv?

Please add/modify the list and add any thoughts -- the only thing I feel I can do now, is be well-informed.

Please chime in all you Ford guys. I don't want to switch trucks -- I'm down to just a few payments left and don't want to start all over Dodge or Chevy issues.

Sorry for the wordy subject, but desperately need help! Thank you!

[JIM_C]

Suzy, I'm sorry to hear of your troubles. Has the truck ever "puked" coolant any other time pulling the trailer? Seems like the 04s were more prone to this.
If not then I think it's the head gaskets. If that is the case, I would definitely recommend replacing the factory head bolts with ARP head studs when the new head gaskets are installed.
I also recommend blocking off the EGR cooler but I don't know if you'll pass the sniff test (are you sure diesels are emissions tested?). I THINK you would, and I recall one report on these boards of a person smog testing their EGR-bypassed 6.0 and it passed with flying colors.
When the problem is fixed I'd also recommend a coolant filter like the one sold at thedieselsite.com. That will keep particulates out of the coolant and, hopefully, prevent the coolant passages in the oil cooler and EGR cooler from clogging and failing.

[Strokin' 6.0]

I would love to hear from folks who have "upgraded" their EGR system. I'd like to see numbers, ie: Increase in reliability (decrease in failures), MPG gains, EPA sniffer results, etc...

If the sniffer passes these trucks with the upgraded systems, then the question must be asked, why in the hell do these engines have EGRs to begin with?????, aside from the obvious, "Because it's the law". If the vehicle is passing emissions, then there is no need for this useless emissions crap.

[DunaticSuzyQ]

Well - the truck went into the dealer and they came back with a cost of $3800 for egr cooler and oil cooler and once we replace those two, then we can see if you need new head gasket or head . . . .

I talked to another "diesel mechanic" in town who tells me the oil cooler is isually not the culprit, you will probably need new head gasket and egr -- that will be $5000 please.

So now I'm even more confused --

DIESEL MECHANICS -- WHAT IS "USUALLY" THE CAUSE - EGR Cooler, Oil Cooler and if the engine never over-heated or show signs of coolant out the exhaust, what's the likely hood of needing a new head?

[BP6.0]

I am not a diesel tech, but I can asure you that the oil coolers are the culprit. I am having a remote oil cooler installed tomorrow. When I first went in and talked to the tech, I asked him about the EGR cooler, he showed me a oilcooler that just came out of a truck, it was so plugged with gunk when he put a garden hose up to it was weeping water out of the discharge on the oilcooler, he said that is why EGR coolers fail. Being that I live in CA I decided to leave it in. The mechanic does alot of work on the side for a third of the cost, so hopefully you can find a cheaper route. For instance he is going to put the remote oilcooler in as well as the updated STC fitting ( now the threaded fitting) and the updated d-rings, which is a seal in between the branch tubes and the stand pipes also known for failing, all of this for $600.00. Not to bad in my book.

[hooknline]

Originally Posted by Strokin' 6.0

I would love to hear from folks who have "upgraded" their EGR system. I'd like to see numbers, ie: Increase in reliability (decrease in failures), MPG gains, EPA sniffer results, etc...

If the sniffer passes these trucks with the upgraded systems, then the question must be asked, why in the hell do these engines have EGRs to begin with?????, aside from the obvious, "Because it's the law". If the vehicle is passing emissions, then there is no need for this useless emissions crap.

FWIW..my egr has been unplugged for 125k miles. I had the egr cooler and oil cooler replaced at 50k and fixed the problem after I got it back from the dealer. Off road only of course.