6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
My 2003 PSD is in the shop right now at 89,000 miles with its first problem ever. The mechanic has told me that it is the EGR cooler and they are replacing it this week. My question is what is an EGR cooler and what does it do? Also the mechanic mentioned that he had to clean a lot of carbon out of it, is this something that will go out every 80,000 miles because of carbon deposits or are you supposed to clean this thing every so often. Sorry for the long post, I tried to do a search on this but only came up with "is it head gaskets or EGR cooler" threads.
EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) is a way of controlling/reducing the amount of oxides of nitrogen (NOx) emissions by effectively quenching the combustion temperature. It does this by introducing some oxygen-poor exhaust gas into the air intake stream. Less oxygen content means less burn means less burn temp which means less NOx formation.
That's a glossy explanation for a fairly complicated situation, but it covers the basics.
Now, on turbo diesels, controlling the inlet air charge temperature is important as it directly influences exhaust gas temperature -- and if EGT is too high, it can cause damage to expensive bits downstream -- such as the turbocharger. So to keep the EGR from spiking the inlet air charge temp (IACT) too high, the EGR gases pass through a cooler that knocks a bunch of heat out and transfers it to the coolant. This drops the EGR gas temp from as much as 1000F to 500F or lower.
That's a lot of heat, obviously. 900-1200 BTU/minute isn't unheard of. To give you an idea of how much heat that is, my home's heating furnace kicks out about 1250 BTU/minute, which is sufficient to heat a 900 sq. ft. house with minimal insulation (it's old [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]), even in Michigan winters.
There have been some issues with EGR coolers cracking along some of the brazed joints, which causes a leak. The later ones are less likely to have this happen, so your replacement cooler should last a good long while.
Hope this helps,
Former Cooling Guy
'99.5 F350 Lariat CC SRW 4x2, 7.3L 4R100
'99 Mustang Cobra, SCCA Solo2 E Street Prepared
'97 Dodge Neon, SCCA ITA/STU/EP Club Racing
Thanks for the quick and informative reply.
I just got another call from the dealer. I had them investigate a small oil leak I found on the bellhousing when changing oil, not even a leak really just a damp spot. They tell me this leak is caused by a seal above the starter and the engine has to be removed to replace this seal. I am going there after work tonight to talk to these guys, has anyone ever had their engine removed to fix an oil leak???? Holy cow.
Bed Plate - Quote "The 6.0 has a cast iron cylinder block and heads, but instead of having a familiar one-piece block, the 6.0 has a split crankcase. The main part of the block contains the cylinders and upper main bearings. The lower part, called the bedplate, is one piece that contains all of the lower main bearings. Below the bedplate is the aluminum upper oil pan assembly, which acts as a windage tray (baffle) and contains a passage to supply oil from the pickup tube to the lube oil pump--no more long pickup tube to leak and suck in air. The lower oil pan is the sump and bolts to the upper oil pan. The engine oil cooler is intergrated with the oil filter base and is now in the valley of the block instead of being bolted to the side."
NEVERL8, I too have a spot under the starter where every now and then I see a single drop of oil. No drips on the barn floor or at work (backed into same place every day) no wetness on the tranny or bell housing... just the head of one bolt about an inch away from the starter.
I plan on watching it closely as I have lots a warranty miles left, but for now nobody's gonna lay a hand on it.
BTW, last time I went into the dealer to buy wiper blades, they had a PSD with the cab off working on the motor... I would puke if I ever saw mine decapitated like that!
Keep posting, Good luck and welcome to TDS !!!!
2006 F-250 XLT FX4 PSD 6.0, Born in Kentucky 10/05. 4X4 Crew, auto, 3.73, Tow Command, Dark Slate Gray, Oil Guard bypass filtration system and Cyclops no-Start.
*2012 BOSS 302, Blaze Yellow
*1993 F250 4X4, 5.6L farm truck
*2008 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO X2
I agree Dizzy, I would hold out as long as I could to not have the cab lifted. My '05 had the cab off twice for head gaskets. They replaced them once and they went again. The second time is when they studded them and they were good after that.
Thanks for all of the responses guys. The warranty running out is what I am worried about. I think I only have about 6 to 7 months of warranty left, I got my truck late 2002. I guess I need to think about if I want to let them do this.
Let them do the fix. I had the same problem, and they pulled the engine and replaced all the bottom end gaskets. Engine has been dry ever since. Took them a week though, it is a labor intensive process that you would NOT want to pay for out of your pocket...... Since they are going to pull the engine to fix(which means draining antifreeze, etc), its a good time to get to know your mechanic, and have them do other preventative maintenance while the engine is out. I wasnt sure they would recharge the coolant system with distilled water, so I brought that in, as well as a new oem airfilter. They used the stuff I brought them.
Neverl8, I agree with Dave, if your warranty is close to over, fix it. 1 week is quick. Both times mine was in they took 10 days and 12 days. The Techs don't get paid what it is worth to fix these trucks so they do it around other better paying jobs. I don't blame the guys one bit. We all need to make the most money we can to support our families and fun so don't get mad at the guys if they take longer than expected. Just be patient and let them fix it properly if you have it done. Rush them and they might rush and make mistakes.
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