6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
Hello all, new user here. I have been reading this forum for a while but never posted. 2004 F250 with 6500 miles no problems until today. This morning when I pulled out of the driveway, I noticed no power and turbo "farts" when I let off the accelerator. It got a little better as the truck warmed up so I headed to the nearest dealer 25 miles away. The did their diags and said I had too much exhaust restriction. My exhaust is a Magnaflow 4" turbo back dual. I said I don't think so you better try again. After 3 test drives, they finally replaced the EGR value and reflashed to the newest for the 2004. Truck now runs great again. Also sounds better too.
Now the good part. During one of the test drives, the top turbo hose blew off ( the rubber one on top) When it let go, it made a nice "dent" in the hood. The body shop says it will have to replace the entire hood because the dent can't be repaired. I saw the estimate for $975. Luckly the dealer is paying for it. So I guess the moral of this story is if you have no power, don't floor it. Let the dealer do it.
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2004 F250 XLT CC Sport True Blue 6.0L PS with Torqshift 4X4,Magnaflow 4" Turbo Dual
EGR just went on mine. At 31,500. Started farting at first, then farted and loss of power, then farting, loss of power, and thick black smoke.
Unpluged the EGR and presto, was back in business. Just got it replace under warranty and they said they put in a new design,(don't know if that is BS or not)
You might want to double check that "new design" b/c I don't think the new EGR valve in the 2005 motors is backward compatible to a 2004 motor. Maybe a tech can jump in with better information.
Mine went " south " at about 8500 miles. Dealer replaced it and I just turned 23000. So much nicer to just replace components than to tune 4 barrels to get it going again. Don't even get the shirt dirty.
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Wolf
Kentucky built 2004 Silver F-250 XL Reg Cab PSD, 4X2, bench cloth seat,air conditioning, 6 spd Manual, 3.73 LS,Line-X , FORD receiver, Prodigy brake controller,towing option,( put together on Monday, March 29, del April 9 2004) 62000 miles
Correct, the 2005 EGR valve is not backward compatible, but there is an updated one for the '03/'04 motors:
"2003/04 Lack of Power, Runs Rough, Check Engine Light on With EGR Codes:
Some trucks may exhibit exhibit the above symptoms, as well as have excessive white or black smoke, and may have the following EGR valve code(s): P0401, P0402, P0403, P0404, P0405, P0406. Diagnostics for the EGR valve have been updated, as has the EGR valve--P/N 4C3Z-9F452-A. Broadcast Message 3614, SSM 18362."
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2004 White F350 XLT, CC, SB, 4x4, 6.0L Auto, 3.73LS, Camper Pkg, Skid Pkg, Edge 2" Mini Spring Pack, Bilsteins, MBRP Exhaust, FluidAmpr, Elite Regulated Return (55 psi), Airdog, Weld Evo Velociti & LT285/75-16
Built: 11/03/03
you can also pull the stupid designed and not needed part out and clean it every once in awhile too if you wanted. I do it every weekend, takes about 6 minutes and about a 1/4 can of carb cleaner, not a real big deal. oh, and my egr has been replaced 4, maybe 5 times, so I clean it now instead of getting a reflash and new egr.
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04 6.0, volant intake, 4 inch exhaust, NOR-CAL TRUCKS custom 13 inch lift, GOLDENFOX CUSTOMS interior-dark gray suede insets with light gray leather, GOLDENFOX CUSTOMS paint-two tone candy with stripe, NO BADGES, KAR TUNZ custom stereo, 20 inch chrome weld commandos with 40" toyo's, 4:56 gears, and some fast stuff by DJ
Yes, I did that myself once - what a mess. But, EGR code (P0403) went away and its run great since. I went ahead and got myself the new one as a backup. I'll keep it on the shelf a while in the hopes that Ford will recall and replace them. If not, once we move to ULSD it will go in to replace the old one.
Mark
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2004 White F350 XLT, CC, SB, 4x4, 6.0L Auto, 3.73LS, Camper Pkg, Skid Pkg, Edge 2" Mini Spring Pack, Bilsteins, MBRP Exhaust, FluidAmpr, Elite Regulated Return (55 psi), Airdog, Weld Evo Velociti & LT285/75-16
Built: 11/03/03
If the 05 EGR is not backward compatible ( meaning 03-04 ), does that mean the dealer has to keep two part numbers in stock. And what part of the valve makes it " incompatible " ????? I am sure the " intake manifold " is the same on a 05 as the 04 ? EGR valves appear to be the leading cause of negative commentary here on TDS
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Wolf
Kentucky built 2004 Silver F-250 XL Reg Cab PSD, 4X2, bench cloth seat,air conditioning, 6 spd Manual, 3.73 LS,Line-X , FORD receiver, Prodigy brake controller,towing option,( put together on Monday, March 29, del April 9 2004) 62000 miles
I wouldn't presume the manifolds are the same. I've read they replaced the throttle plate with something else to facilitate EGR flow, and this may be what is forcing a different EGR valve:
It would seem unreasonable to modify a manifold to accomodate a " bolt-on part " that changes design. Specially now that it is obvious the bean counters are a pivotal part in the design process. Having two different manifolds being carried in the inventory must be more expensive than carrying two different EGR valves. I know that soot build-up is a great problem with these things and I am curious as to what the engineers at FORD did to mitigate this ( or just make the EGR part of a 36K maintenance ??? )
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Wolf
Kentucky built 2004 Silver F-250 XL Reg Cab PSD, 4X2, bench cloth seat,air conditioning, 6 spd Manual, 3.73 LS,Line-X , FORD receiver, Prodigy brake controller,towing option,( put together on Monday, March 29, del April 9 2004) 62000 miles
DSI-
What did you do? Just crush the sensor so that it doesn't flow?
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2008 F350 CrewCab Longbed, Black on Black, 12 inch Modified Rize Lift, King Coilovers in Front, King Reservoirs Front and Back, 40 inch Nittos, Amp Steps, 4.88 Gears
not at all.. the EGR has 2 upper passages, that flow into the intake, 2 middle passages that flow from the exhaust side, then the plunger on teh botton that opens into the intake also. I cut the plunger off, then cut the remaining piece of the plunger's shaft off, then welded the plunger back to the bottom of teh valve. the upper 2 passages i took small pieces of tin, cut them to the right shape, then welded them in.
the valve still opens and closes like it always has, so all of the internal sensor's still check out and see that it is hooked up. but i still get 1 code [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] insufficiant flow. but i got my 3psi of boost back and have a clean intake [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
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'04/03 F250 6.0/Torqueshift XLT Crew Cab... 4in, 4.10's, 315's on weld's, Stud's, O-Ring's, Injector's, Fuel Mods, AFE Intake, and a MagnaFlow Exhaust...
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I just posted something on disconnecting electrical wire from EGR. Have you tried this? Worka great.
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mine had been unplugged since the truck had around 1500 miles on it... but unplugging it did take 2-3psi of boost away and set 5 codes on my truck, i now have one code and all my boost.
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'04/03 F250 6.0/Torqueshift XLT Crew Cab... 4in, 4.10's, 315's on weld's, Stud's, O-Ring's, Injector's, Fuel Mods, AFE Intake, and a MagnaFlow Exhaust...
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