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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super-Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

       
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Old 06-29-2009, 01:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Engine died while hauling equipment, now won't start

04 F350 dually pulling a 30' goosneck with about 10,000 lbs of tractors.
Just crested a hill when I noticed no power and engine died. There were no bangs, clunks, or other noises and didn't notice any smoke. Motor turned over about 2 or 3 times and seemed to lock up. Pulled it home and after a couple of hours tried starting, again engine turned over a few times and stopped. Long story short, bought truck year 1-1/2 yrs ago with 50k on odometer. After having engine trouble found out that 4 injectors were bad and also has a remanufactured motor with warranty voided. Dealer out of business by now and I have replaced all 8 injectors, last 4 injectors and egr valve were last fall and all was well until yesterday.
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Old 06-30-2009, 09:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hpop? Cps?
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I change oil every 5k (Rotella Syn. 5W-40), fuel filters every 10k (Ford Filters Only), air filter every 30K (Ford Filter Only), Changed trans. oil/filter & diffs. oils at 50K. Mostly highway miles & some around town.

From 5/23/09 - 6/19/09 At 62K miles & 9 months out of warranty, I spent $8K b/c of & getting this X fixed; 3 Ford Dealers in 3 dif. states replaced: EGR Valve, Cleaned Turbo Pipes, IAT,Map Sensor, ICP, VGT, (Cleaned Turbo -Compression ring still sticking), Replaced Turbo. On 6/19/09 I bought Ford Ext. War. 4yrs./48k.

Buy your Ford Factory Ext. Warranty.


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Old 07-03-2009, 03:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Not elgible for extended warranty from Ford. When I return I plan to take it to a major Ford truck repair shop in KC for diagnosis. If head gasket blown & piston(s) replacement required am looking at optional motors to drop in. Does Cat make anything available that anyone knows of?
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Old 07-03-2009, 04:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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By no power do you mean no boost? Might want to take a sample of the coolamt to ford and have them test it for exhaust gases.
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Old 07-03-2009, 04:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Have you noticed any exhaust smoke?
Any loss of coolant?

The only way to check for combsution gasses is to run it hard and then check for combustion gasses at the degass bottle. It will not tell you anything if you just get a sample of the coolant to test.
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Old 07-03-2009, 06:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If motor locked up, sounds like hydrolock which could be blown egr cooler. Don't try that again. Maybe you havn't bent any rods etc. Get to garage for proper diagnostics.
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Old 07-13-2009, 07:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Dealer found one cylinder full of antifreeze, removed glow plug and removed liquid. Said it was due to bad EGR cooler tubes and want to replace oil cooler at the same time. Nothing a checkbook won't cure! $2200.00
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Old 07-13-2009, 07:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Make sure they are replacing oil cooler kit as well when they do egr cooler or you will be replacing another failed egr cooler in a short period of time.
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Old 07-13-2009, 09:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Did you take it to Midway Ford in KC? They really know their stuff there.
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Old 07-13-2009, 10:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yes, its at Midway. They seemed pricey but they work on more trucks than most dealers ever see. Had a co-worker drive from KC to Oregon and had the oil pump go out while out west. Dealer out there wanted $1500 to diagnose the problem and estimated 35-$4500 to repair. He had it freighted back to Midway, diagnosed and repaired for $1700. Shelling out the $ hurts but it's easier to take when its done right.
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Old 07-13-2009, 11:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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hello I am new to this but I have alot of experience this the wosre engine ever produced-the 6.0L.By the way Ford is in the settlement phase with several ambulance services over repairs for these engines.I will share some of the things that I have learned.
1.EGR-very expensive to replace at the dealership, but it only has two bolts and one wire plug, replace it and clean our the tube with Sea Foam brand penetrating spray and you will only spend about $400.00
2.Air conditioners-if you leave the engine idleing for any period of time make sure that you have a high idle on your truck and USE IT every time.The compressor gets hot and build up head pressure and blows the compressor.Also Ford swears that there is no metal pieces that get into the AC system, but yet again they are wrong so change everything that can be changed when replacing the compressor.
3.When cranking wait until you do not hear the pumping sound!!!This is very important.
4.Cam shaft sensor-this thing hets water on it and shorts out regularly,and again ford does not know why.If your truck will not crank this may be the reason.But keep in mind this will give off an engine code, but if there is no code and it still will not crank DEMAND that they check the crank shaft sensor because it does not put off a code but will not allow it to start and most dealership mechanics will not do this because the manuals do not say to.Trust me.
5.If you continue to have fan motors go out, dont waste your time with a Ford replacement because they will not last, I know this sound crazy but a fan motor off of a snow plow works great and produces more air flow. Not sure what type it is but will let yall know later when I get the rest of info.
6.About once a month do yourself a favor and get out that can of Sea Foam brand penetraing spray and crank the engine and set the high idle and take the air intake loose behind the filter and spray this stuff into the intake for about 30 to 45 seconds and let the truck run for 30 minutes or however long it takes it to get good and hot-this cleans the EGR valve,turbo and intake and keeps it from Coking up,something Ford claims they can do with the Turbo. It is going to have a strange smell coming out off the exhaust but dont worry, after this your fuel mileage will increase and it will have more power.Take my word for it I have not replaced a EGR valve since we started doing this, before we were changing them about every six months and that has been about 2 years now.
7.also keep an eye on your coolant level if you start seeing it low and no leaks be prepared to change the EGR Cooler, dealerships here charge about $4k but I found a great mechanic that does it for about $2K. If this happens make sure they soak the intake in some type of parts cleaner to get all that junk out of it,something the dealers will not do.
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Old 07-14-2009, 06:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Will Sea Foam harm your turbo when sprayed down the intake?

I used it on my Scout a long time ago, but this is a totally different beast.
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Old 07-14-2009, 07:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by southarkems@sbcglobal.net View Post
hello I am new to this but I have alot of experience this the wosre engine ever produced-the 6.0L.By the way Ford is in the settlement phase with several ambulance services over repairs for these engines.I will share some of the things that I have learned.
1.EGR-very expensive to replace at the dealership, but it only has two bolts and one wire plug, replace it and clean our the tube with Sea Foam brand penetrating spray and you will only spend about $400.00
2.Air conditioners-if you leave the engine idleing for any period of time make sure that you have a high idle on your truck and USE IT every time.The compressor gets hot and build up head pressure and blows the compressor.Also Ford swears that there is no metal pieces that get into the AC system, but yet again they are wrong so change everything that can be changed when replacing the compressor.
3.When cranking wait until you do not hear the pumping sound!!!This is very important.
4.Cam shaft sensor-this thing hets water on it and shorts out regularly,and again ford does not know why.If your truck will not crank this may be the reason.But keep in mind this will give off an engine code, but if there is no code and it still will not crank DEMAND that they check the crank shaft sensor because it does not put off a code but will not allow it to start and most dealership mechanics will not do this because the manuals do not say to.Trust me.
5.If you continue to have fan motors go out, dont waste your time with a Ford replacement because they will not last, I know this sound crazy but a fan motor off of a snow plow works great and produces more air flow. Not sure what type it is but will let yall know later when I get the rest of info.
6.About once a month do yourself a favor and get out that can of Sea Foam brand penetraing spray and crank the engine and set the high idle and take the air intake loose behind the filter and spray this stuff into the intake for about 30 to 45 seconds and let the truck run for 30 minutes or however long it takes it to get good and hot-this cleans the EGR valve,turbo and intake and keeps it from Coking up,something Ford claims they can do with the Turbo. It is going to have a strange smell coming out off the exhaust but dont worry, after this your fuel mileage will increase and it will have more power.Take my word for it I have not replaced a EGR valve since we started doing this, before we were changing them about every six months and that has been about 2 years now.
7.also keep an eye on your coolant level if you start seeing it low and no leaks be prepared to change the EGR Cooler, dealerships here charge about $4k but I found a great mechanic that does it for about $2K. If this happens make sure they soak the intake in some type of parts cleaner to get all that junk out of it,something the dealers will not do.
I know you don't have as much experience as you think you do. I have been working on ford diesels for 13 years and agree with nearly none of your statements. A/C compressors failing from idling and high pressures????? Pumping sound when cranking???? Camshaft sensor shorting out, or is it crankshaft sensor??? Either way, neither one will cause a no crank. This engine has an electronically controlled viscous fan clutch...there is no fan motor. I have never, and will not start to, spray anything in turbo inlet. If coolant level is low, it could be an egr cooler. I would recommend a COMPLETE diagnosis. If it led to an egr cooler, the oil cooler HAS to be replaced. If you mechanic is doing the repairs that cheap, I would suspect he is not replacing all required parts, or he works for peanuts.
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Old 07-14-2009, 07:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i can assure you i may not be a mechanic but since i started using the sea foam we have not replaced anymore turbos or egr valves and if you dont let the high pressure oil pump cycle before it cranks it will tear something up.i do not have any formal training other than out of my ass pocket, as for your 13 years i congratulate you but these are things that i learned from a fleet mechanic who works for a nation wide company that runs these crappy engines and this is what they have learned from trial and error and from the engineers who admitted in a depostion for the class action lawsuit that the engine has numerous flaws.i never claimed to be an authority but inly a small business owner who happens to network with several fleet managers that work on this junk every day. and by the way if the head pressure in the ac gets to high and the air flow is not adequate it will blow the compressor or is it just a fluke that i have replaced 5 of them before we started using the high idle and now it has stopped....mmmm.the vehicles that i am talking abot are not your average vehicles they idle for long periods of time,now i understand that you may be a senior tech with ford but ford trained you and ford makes money off the repairs.as for the crankshaft sensor it will not give you a code, and when coolant fluid gets on the crankshaft sensor it will short out.

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Old 07-14-2009, 08:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
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i can assure you i may not be a mechanic but since i started using the sea foam we have not replaced anymore turbos or egr valves and if you dont let the high pressure oil pump cycle before it cranks it will tear something up.i do not have any formal training other than out of my ass pocket, as for your 13 years i congratulate you but these are things that i learned from a fleet mechanic who works for a nation wide company that runs these crappy engines and this is what they have learned from trial and error and from the engineers who admitted in a depostion for the class action lawsuit that the engine has numerous flaws.i never claimed to be an authority but inly a small business owner who happens to network with several fleet managers that work on this junk every day. and by the way if the head pressure in the ac gets to high and the air flow is not adequate it will blow the compressor or is it just a fluke that i have replaced 5 of them before we started using the high idle and now it has stopped....mmmm.the vehicles that i am talking abot are not your average vehicles they idle for long periods of time,now i understand that you may be a senior tech with ford but ford trained you and ford makes money off the repairs.as for the crankshaft sensor it will not give you a code, and when coolant fluid gets on the crankshaft sensor it will short out.
The high pressure oil pump is driven off the cam gear, there is NO cycling to it...there is NOTHING to tear up. There is an A/C pressure cut off switch that STOPS the compressor from running when pressures reach high levels to prevent any damage. There is also a pressure relief valve on the A/C manifold that will release excessive pressures if they would get to high from a failed cut off switch. I have never seen a crankshaft sensor fail yet...except for one that I damaged myself. (yes, I do make mistakes) Thank you for the congrats on my 13 years, but that wasn't my intent. My intent is to caution other users of some of the "repair procedures" you have stated.
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