Engine Mounted Fuel Filter Cover--PITA to Remove - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 07-15-2009, 09:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Engine Mounted Fuel Filter Cover--PITA to Remove

Is there a special tool for taking this cover off? I started with a 1/2" drive socket extension and that ended up cracking the plastic around the top part. Ended up getting it off by less than conventional methods. But after putting it back on, it appears to have a crack all the way through and will have to be replaced. The dealer wants $72.00 for this crappy thing!!
Anyone else have problems getting theirs off?

Thanks,
Chris
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sorry about your bad luck there. I've been using a 1/2" extension for years with no issues. Sounds like maybe it was tightened too much last time.
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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.... or possibly cross-threaded
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I usually use the proper size socket (don't recall of the top of my head,think it's 24mm) instead of using the ext.I found that the ext seemed to put more pressure on it.The socket gets more area of a bite.
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Both 24mm or 15/16 will work
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Chris..less than coventional means..sounds like u used a hammer. Ive used 1/2" ratchet since new..mine still ok. I think there's one made from metal or billett alum. but dont recall where I saw. Geez..$72. no wonder they get call stealerships. Better luck next time.
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Sounds like an install issue. With an O-Ring seal the cap only has to snug up to the housing. The spec is 14Nm, 120 lb-in, or 10 lb-ft. The O-Ring is what seals the cap. In Ford literature it states that over torque will crack the cap. The threads are not an interference thread, you just relying on the crush of the O-Ring.

If you want an aluminum cap, they are available aftermarket. The issue with this is if you have someone install the cap and they are too aggressive the danger is to crack the housing, a much more expensive repair.

I usually put a light coat of Vaseoline on the O-Ring to help install it so it doesn't chafe or get a cut on install, and it keeps it lubricated and free of corrosion so it's easier to work with later.

Another thing I did during the first replacement was to use a marker and put a line across the cap and housing after torqued to sped. This way I can just tighten the cap to the line and not need to use a torque wrench each time. The 120 lb-in is just to let you know the edge of the cap has hit the housing.
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Check out your local wrecking yard for a replacement - there's nothing magic about a new one.
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Old 07-16-2009, 11:20 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks guys, i suspect that it was overtightened the last time i had it changed at a lube shop. I am now doing all my own maintenance. Never thought about using a socket since the top is square. Called the wrecking yards they had nothing, but found one through Carquest for $43. Will be up and running again this afternoon.
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Old 07-16-2009, 02:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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For 72 bucks u can probably get a billet cap with a port to monitor fuel press.
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Old 07-16-2009, 03:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69cj View Post
For 72 bucks u can probably get a billet cap with a port to monitor fuel press.
Yep, DieselManor has them for less than $50.

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