6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
Is there a special tool for taking this cover off? I started with a 1/2" drive socket extension and that ended up cracking the plastic around the top part. Ended up getting it off by less than conventional methods. But after putting it back on, it appears to have a crack all the way through and will have to be replaced. The dealer wants $72.00 for this crappy thing!!
Anyone else have problems getting theirs off?
I usually use the proper size socket (don't recall of the top of my head,think it's 24mm) instead of using the ext.I found that the ext seemed to put more pressure on it.The socket gets more area of a bite.
__________________ 3/28/03 F250 6.0L PSD ,TORQSHIFT,CC,SB,FX4,LARIAT
Charcoal Gray/Black,
Tint,RhinoLined,Sirius,Roll&Lock,Strobes,
SCT X3 Custom Tuned by Innovative,
MBRP Stainless 4" Turbo Back,
ISSPRO Pyro,Boost, & Trans Gauges
Prodigy Brake Controller,Remote Start and Turbo Cooldown,
High Idle Mod., PM-13A on the Oil Pan,
HFCM Plug Upgrade,DieselSite Coolant Filter,
Energy Suspension Bushings,& Stanadyne every tank
Chris..less than coventional means..sounds like u used a hammer. Ive used 1/2" ratchet since new..mine still ok. I think there's one made from metal or billett alum. but dont recall where I saw. Geez..$72. no wonder they get call stealerships. Better luck next time.
Sounds like an install issue. With an O-Ring seal the cap only has to snug up to the housing. The spec is 14Nm, 120 lb-in, or 10 lb-ft. The O-Ring is what seals the cap. In Ford literature it states that over torque will crack the cap. The threads are not an interference thread, you just relying on the crush of the O-Ring.
If you want an aluminum cap, they are available aftermarket. The issue with this is if you have someone install the cap and they are too aggressive the danger is to crack the housing, a much more expensive repair.
I usually put a light coat of Vaseoline on the O-Ring to help install it so it doesn't chafe or get a cut on install, and it keeps it lubricated and free of corrosion so it's easier to work with later.
Another thing I did during the first replacement was to use a marker and put a line across the cap and housing after torqued to sped. This way I can just tighten the cap to the line and not need to use a torque wrench each time. The 120 lb-in is just to let you know the edge of the cap has hit the housing.
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Jack
Former Vehicle Test Manager - Friction Products
03 F350SC 4x4 6.0 Auto 5/30/03
Truck Modifications below in Pictorials on Facebook. Search in Google - Facebook TooManyToys
Thanks guys, i suspect that it was overtightened the last time i had it changed at a lube shop. I am now doing all my own maintenance. Never thought about using a socket since the top is square. Called the wrecking yards they had nothing, but found one through Carquest for $43. Will be up and running again this afternoon.
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2004 6.0 E350 Quigley 4x4 w/ Sportsmobile Conversion.
285/75R16 BFG AT/KO. 3.73 Gears.
Dieselsite Coolant Filter.
Aluminess Front/Rear Bumpers.
125W Solar Panel.
Sportsmobile Trailer on 285/75R16 BFG AT/KO tires w/ dual deep cycle marine batteries, water pump, 10 gal water storage, air compressor, storage box & 15W Solar Panel.
Wiring Harness Recall - 15K miles
EGR Valve replaced @ 30K miles
Oil & EGR Coolers replaced @ 62K miles
Tank delamination - Reconditioned by Gas Tank Renu @ 62K miles
Vacuum Pump replaced 69K
SnowMan Mod / Door Seal Mod
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