6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
This is my first diesel that I have owned and I love it. I used to be located in Cali and I did notice a couple of times last year when it was really cold (for Norcal) that it would take a long time to warm up, the tranny warmed up way before the engine did. I took it into the dealer and they said this was normal, that the tranny will be warm before the engine. Well, now I have relocated to N. Idaho and with winter now upon us, my temp gauge will make it to the first mark if I am lucky by the time I get into work, which is about 9 miles, 4 miles city and 5 miles freeway, and it is only 26F outside. It is an 04 4X4 auto and it doesn't seem normal to me. I am at 35,400 miles and the warranty is almost up. Is this temp reading normal or should I take it in to the dealer. Will they cover it? I did report this last year when I only had about 20,000 on it, but the dealer in NorCal was crap and they just blew me off. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] I don't know what to do.
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honestly, it sounds about normal. I live in Cal and my truck stays cold for quite awhile. You could take it to the dealer jsut to save your mind, but they will probably test the guage to make sure it is working properly, but outside of that, I doubt they would do much. the only otherr thing, does it have coolant in it? start there, then take 'er in. theres not a lot youo can really do
04 6.0, volant intake, 4 inch exhaust, NOR-CAL TRUCKS custom 13 inch lift, GOLDENFOX CUSTOMS interior-dark gray suede insets with light gray leather, GOLDENFOX CUSTOMS paint-two tone candy with stripe, NO BADGES, KAR TUNZ custom stereo, 20 inch chrome weld commandos with 40" toyo's, 4:56 gears, and some fast stuff by DJ
I live in Northern US and it takes about 3 miles of driving for the temp. gauge to start to move. You have 3 gallons of coolant to heat up. You can block off some of the radiator to improve the heat up, but be careful not to block off too much. I find that the 6.0 heats up much faster than the Cummins Dodge. I recall that Ford advertised some sort of faster heat up feature on the 6.0 when it came out in 03.
2005 F350 Super Duty extra cab Lariat Automatic, 4WD,FX4, dark Torreador Red with ARE cap (Ford buyback replacement for a leaky 03 XLT). 2005 F350 XLT Crew Cab Dually, 2004 F250 XL Super Duty reg. cab, 2005 F450 Box, 2005 F450 Dump bed, 2006 SLT Supercab dually, 3 2006 F550 supercab Dump beds, Custom 2006 F550 4 door Lariat 4X4 super hauler,2 2008 F450 crew duallies (and a whole lot of HD diesel equipment), and a 2006 Z06 for fun.
Yep, diesels only warm up when they're working. At idle they'll take forever. Frankly your 9 miles of driving isn't working it very hard! The 6.0 definitely heats up faster than the 7.3L did, but 9 miles isns't enough for either one.
If you desperately want cabin heat during your drive, you might try plugging in the block heater. That would at least give it a headstart in the morning.
The upside of all this is that it shows how much more efficient diesels are. There just isn't as much waste heat to throw around into the heater core, like there is with a gas engine.
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I wouldn't call improper heating up a sign of efficiency, I would call that a bad design of the cooling system. Come on, a truck that is designed and sold in the 21st century should throw reasonable heat when it is only 26F out! That isn't even cold, what about when it really gets cold, like -25F, then that truck would be completely unsafe to drive since the front windshield would not be able to keep clear. That is unacceptable. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sick.gif[/img]
I don't think it is unreasonable for a $45k truck to be able to keep the passengers warm in the winter. There must be something than can be done to improve it.
Friends don't let friends drive Chevy.
Funny to see this thread, Just yesterday my 05 6.0 with 17,000 miles decides I did not need heat. It is about 20 degrees here lately! Anyway , temp needdle would not move off the bottom. Found the thermostat had stuck open. replaced and all is fine again. I refused to take it in to the dealer and just ended up eating the cost. I don't need any surprises when I get it back.
I also have about a 9 mi. drive (all city) to work everyday. At 26F it will be pretty much up to temp in 5 to 6 mi. and putting out max heat.
I do have cold front grill inserts installed, but I doubt they are making that much of a difference. The transmission gauge always comes up to temp well before the engine. If you are barely getting above the cold mark and not getting any significant heat in 9 mi., then I would agree that you do have a problem and should take it in to a good dealer and have it checked.
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If I crank my 03' up about 10-15 minutes before I leave the house then the heater will be kicking mildly warm after about 2-3 miles. I find myself turning the heat dial down a bit after about 6-7 miles. Temp has been in the teens.
Yesterday morning it was 34, it took 7.4 miles to get to operating temp. A little later it was 40, took the VW TDI took just over 4 miles to get to operating temp. My friend says his Dmax takes forever to warm up also. Itís the nature of a diesel and it IS because itís more efficient in using up the heat it creates.
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I wouldn't call improper heating up a sign of efficiency, I would call that a bad design of the cooling system.
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Then I guess you need to call up Ford, Chevy and VW and tell them their cooling systems in their diesels are poorly designed.
You probably do have a problem. It was -25 F here this morning and with have the truck plugged in overnight and idling for about 3 minutes before I left I was up to normal operating temperature in about 3 miles or so. Like everybody else will say if you want it to warm up quicker plug it in with a timer.
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What is your 9 mile drive to work like? If you're puttering around at a constant 45 MPH and 1200 rpm, it's not going to warm up fully. My drive is 2.5 miles at 45 with two stop signs, needle doesn't move, then 22 miles on highway. I'm 5 miles onto the highway before it reaches operating temp, longer if I drive conservatively (below 2k rpm). It's been about the same since new regardless of weather.
I'd also be concerned about soot buildup unless you work it regularly too.
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I have been plugging it in, every night since thanksgiving, the first week we had mild weather, in the mid 20's in the morning, truck wouldn't warm up to the first mark on the gauge with it plugged in ALL NIGHT. The last couple of days it was 6F in the morning, same thing plugged in barely moved off cold. My drive is 2 miles city, 45mph, then 5 miles hwy 75mph, and then almost 3 miles city again. I have seen the gauge slowly move up on the highway which is fine, it would then indicate that it is a cold weather b***h like everyone is saying, but then I see the gauge going back down to cold, which would indicate the thermostat is open and flowing coolant to the rad instead of the bypass circuit. If it is a cold weather b***h and slow to warm up then the temp would just sit there and not go lower but continue its slow rise. Correct?
What I will do is this weekend remove the t-stat, suspend it in water and increase the temp, record when the t-stat opens, if it opens premature then there is a problem, if it opens on spec then my truck is the way it is and I will have to find ways to increase the heating, either put in a cab heater, block off the rad, or whatever else I can do.
As for the design of the cooling system if this is indeed NORMAL behavior then yes it is a BAD DESIGN, it is not even cold yet, if it goes to -25F I would be better off and warmer driving my snowmobile to work. Just because every vehicle out there does it the same doesn't make it right. When a cooling system is designed it needs to be designed for ALL PARAMETERS, both hot temps and cold temps. If the thermostat is too weak for the pressure and flow of the water pump and can't hold back the coolant from the radiator then that is a flaw. This is the 21ST century, why are they still using some mechanicle POS with a spring to regulate our engine temps, I think the auto industry could come up with something a little better than that. Remember the auto industry is there to make money selling cars, they only reason they do any improvements are for competitive reasons or government regs that make them -- smog laws, etc. Since all the others are cold blooded as well there is no incentive to make a better product until they need to. Just like the diesel horsepower wars, the 06s have more torque only because Dodge and GM have upped the ante. Competition and sales inspire improvement and development.
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