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Engine running warm etc 214 eon 239

2K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  bismic 
#1 ·
Ok so I had a used motor put in my 6.0, had them replace oil cooler with a doorman. Figured it would clog and would need to replace. Only have 1000 miles since getting it back and starting to get warm already. Unload 40 mile run 55degree weather its running 210-216 etc and 239ish eot. Towed a 2000 pound trailer and was running 218 ect with overload fan coming on every few minutes and eot at 240ish. Dealer checked heads and studded before installing.dealer supposedly flushed system before filling with cat coolant. Have a bpd egr cooler installed as well. Any suggestions on where to start. I'm running out of money :crying:
 
#2 ·
The Dorman oil cooler is junk. Sorry, but it is just the facts!
 
#3 ·
Poor decision on my part for sure, it's going to be costly. Could a thermostat, radiator cause the elevated cooling themps. Besides the delta split seems a bit high. Dealer told me coolant temps were normal.just concerned about the oil temp
 
#4 · (Edited)
The coolant temps seem high to me also, so you may have several issues. Towing 2000 lbs is nothing. I guess the radiator could be clogged - not sure how you would confirm that. Also, make sure the belt isn't loose.

The thermostat might be a problem, but the bigger issue is the high oil temp. That is not a thermostat issue. There is a remote chance that your water pump could be weak, but the most probable cause is the oil cooler. There is an oil cooler bypass valve (at the base of the oil filter housing). It could be leaking by. IIRC the EOT sensor is positioned such that it reads the temp of the oil downstream of where this bypass ties in. You might google this while I try to remember the threads that discuss it.

Oil cooler bypass valve (from BulletProof Diesel)
Product Code: 90100115
https://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=90100115&CartID=1

Several options to increase cooling (coolant temps). There is a manual switch modification so you can turn the fan on high when you want it, and a mod to install a 7.3L fan clutch.

https://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/Fan_Clutch_Adapter_6_0L_to_7_3L_Ford_Diesel_p/6502213.htm
 
#12 · (Edited)
The coolant temps seem high to me also, so you may have several issues. Towing 2000 lbs is nothing. I guess the radiator could be clogged - not sure how you would confirm that. Also, make sure the belt isn't loose.

The thermostat might be a problem, but the bigger issue is the high oil temp. That is not a thermostat issue. There is a remote chance that your water pump could be weak, but the most probable cause is the oil cooler. There is an oil cooler bypass valve (at the base of the oil filter housing). It could be leaking by. IIRC the EOT sensor is positioned such that it reads the temp of the oil downstream of where this bypass ties in. You might google this while I try to remember the threads that discuss it.

Oil cooler bypass valve (from BulletProof Diesel)
Product Code: 90100115
https://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=90100115&CartID=1

Several options to increase cooling (coolant temps). There is a manual switch modification so you can turn the fan on high when you want it, and a mod to install a 7.3L fan clutch.

https://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/Fan_Clutch_Adapter_6_0L_to_7_3L_Ford_Diesel_p/6502213.htm
The high oil temp is also not related to the radiator.

As I said - maybe the water pump, but I doubt it. Not sure how you would prove one way or the other though.

Your oil cooler is plugging or the bypass valve leaking are about the most likely two causes.

Cheapest thing to "try" is a replacement thermostat (for the elevated water temps) and to replace the bypass valve (or at least remove it and inspect).

Also, you could drain all the coolant out to inspect it, and/or try backflusing the oil cooler (collect the material backflushed to see what is in there).

Best of luck.
 
#5 ·
You might want to consider getting a coolant filter installed asap in case there is more debris in the cooling system than the dealer flushed out. Especially if you end up doing the cooler again with an OEM one. You want to make sure it will be your last for a very long time. If you can get some miles on the engine with the filter installed and changed it a couple times to be sure it's clean before you do the cooler again (assuming that ends up being the issue), that would be some good insurance for a long healthy life of the next cooler...
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
I do have a coolant filter. Installed. Going to change the filter shortly. Here is my thinking, I put a cheap oil cooler in, dealer flushed and clogged. I am hoping that this is the case and a flush then new filter solves my issues. My biggest fear is that there is a hg issue as well. I had the dealer check my heads and reinstall with new gaskets and studs. Coolant levels remain the same as I received it 1800 miles ago. But I did notice my coolant filter leaking and the filter and bypass plug( coolant system pressure?) hopefully not. I ran the truck today on a 200 mile run to pick up a few rolls of carpet, on avg I was running 210-218 ect. And 230 eot. Fan would come on and ect would drop, never exceeded 220. It's been 80 degrees here in ca at the moment, but I need to get this fixed before summer as I have a boat and utv I tow. I have found a fleet mechanic will to do the oil cooler and flush for $1000. Seems to be a great deal, my biggest fear is doing this and it not being the issue
 
#8 · (Edited)
First thing is to try to confirm that the temperature sensors are reading properly. TFT, EOT, and ECT should all read within a degree or two after a 20-24 hour cold soak. I assumed that they were OK because the numbers you posted "tracked" each other, but need to confirm.
 
#11 ·
After sitting temps were all even at 68 outside temp 59
Could a radiator,water pump, or thermostats cause me the higher coolant temp of 210 and then causing my higher oil temps. 20 degree delta u loaded runs just under 230.
Can a cooler clogg in less then 1500 miles?
 
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