6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
I just got my F250 6.0L Turbo Diesel to Montana. It has been negative degree weather everyday and my truck doesnt want to start right away. It takes several times to get the engine to turn over. The truck came with a block heater so last night i plugged it in for the first time but this morning, the truck was still cold and struggled to start. How do i know if my block heater is working and keeping my engine warm?
It's probably working, if you have guages, the coolant and oil temp gauges will be warm. Probably anywhere from 50 to 100 degrees.
2006 F250 King Ranch FX4 - (Build date Sept. 2005)
6.0L (Engine Build date Sept. 21 2005)
Dark Copper w/ Beige accent
Short Bed, Crew Cab, Sun Roof, Power Rear Window
18" KR wheels, Camper Package, Tow Command
Mods: Shaker 500 Stereo, Alpine MRV-F450 amp, Line-X, Edge Insight, MBRP 4" Turbo Back Exhaust, Diesel Site Coolant Filter, Blue Spring upgrade, Removed Ford Gold Coolant, Fuel Pressure Guage
Do you have anything but stock guages? ralderman was not referring to the stock guages. As long as I've owned my 6 liter, plugging it in has never had a visible effect on the stock guage position after a cold soak. During sub-zero temps, I can easily tell if my block heater is working-the truck starts up better, but it sounds like it's missing terribly because of the lack of distribution of heat from the block heater. what i mean is.... the side with the heater element is warmer than the other side, so upon cold start, as the engine fires through it's firing order, the cylinders on the drivers side bank make more noise than the ones on the pass side(heated) bank. You may need to check your power source, or make sure you're using an appropriate cord. Better to use a lower guage (thicker) cord, and shorter length.
__________________ 2003 RED F-250 Lariat FX4
SuperCab, Short Box, 6.0L, Torqueshift
"1991" Sun-Lite Pop/Up Slide-In Camper
137,000 as of 1/26/2012
3/19/11, Converted to (red) Delo ELC, new bottle & cap, all temps reading good, orig EGR & OIL coolers, probably thanks to the coolant filter, and previously frequently flushed Motorcrap Gold.
you should be able to grab the upper radiator hose and feel if its warm. Mine is quite toasty even in sub zero weather...
2005 F350 6.0L Lariat FX4 CC LB SRW 4x4 | ARP's | BulletProof EGR | Sinister Coolant Filter | Blue Spring | High Idle Mod | 4" Exhaust | B&W Turnover
2003 2500HD 6.0L XC LB SRW | B&W Turnover | Mortally Wounded in Tree vs. Truck Season #2, with a elbow/trunk drop to the midsection, running longzies
Case 580SE Extenda-Hoe 2wd
I'm running the Edge Insight and at 15* if i plug mine in, in 3 hrs it will be up to 90* another thing what wt oil are you running in cold weather use a 5w40 and they like Syn oil right now i'm useing 15w40 Amsoil but i will be switching over to a 5w40 for the next winter will change around Oct-Nov the only time mine really runs is when it is pulling my 5er the rest of the time i use my 97 i have the best of both worlds
06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
Edge Insight CTS with Expandable pyro
AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge 0-100
Sinister Fuel Pressure Adapter
Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
WOT 58lbs Idle 62-64lbs Just Right
HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade
Ford Cetane boost every fillup
Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Dieselsite Coolant Filtration System
Delo ELC Coolant
Pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
Roll-N-Lock bed cover
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB (sold it)
1700 Super Chip
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp-4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
A pillar EGT,Boost,Trans
Check the resistance across the two prongs of the heating element once you unplug the cord from it. It should measure somewhere between 12 and 17 ohms (Ford Specs). If your outside of that range then you need a new heating element; also make sure that there is little to no corrosion on the two prongs as this could cause an issue (in heater performance and resistance measurements). If the resistance measurement is within that range your block heater cord may have something wrong with it. You can check the resistance of your cord poles, which each should measure dang close to 0 ohms. Hope this helps.
I only plug mine in when it goes into the teens. And as 2stroker said you only need it plugged in for 3 hrs prior to starting.
Simplest test you can do to check the heating element it is when you plug it in you should notice a small arc in the receptacle of the extension cord because of the 12Amp load of the heating element being connected to the feed (120VAC) .
I've got a scangauge2 and my ECT is around 80-90 in the morning. People call them block heaters but in actuality the heater element is just keeping the coolant in the block warm and its drawing quite a few amps wile its doing it too.
Thats another reason why a lot of guys hook up timers so as to only turn them on 3 hours before you start her up.
2005 F250 XLT SC, LB
6.0 Torqueshift 3.73LS 4x4 T/C
Trk Bld: 02/05/05 KY
Eng Bld: 02/03/05 Indianapolis
2825 Hrs +/-, 101K Miles - No Major Probs other than brakes
DC Power 185 Alternator
Atlas 40 FICM @ 90K
4" Banks Turbo-Back Duals
3.5" Ready Lift
315 - 70R17 Duratrac's
Bodiak Front Receiver
HFCM Plug Upgrade Blue Spring Upgrade
Zerex Red ELC
2 Stroke TC-3W Oil added 1oz/Gallon Fuel
Last edited by Band_Member; 02-24-2011 at 10:11 AM.
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