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Failed Contribution code.. Compression related?

7K views 29 replies 6 participants last post by  doublezero 
#1 ·
OK so As most of you will know from other posts, Im chasing some issues. Have had a failed contribution cyl 6. With a fairly heavy tick on the drivers side.. coupled with a bit of smoke and power loss.

I am now stalling a few times when first started.. till it warms up.

Changed Injector 4 and 6.. no change in the tick.. and still have cyl 6 code. FICM tests fine from the tests I can do.

When cranking over using the starter wire, I do not have a steady cycle. There is a definite engine issue.

I have read some that bent pushrods etc can cause low compression.. could I get so lucky? I don't know that I can stomach an engine rebuild right now..
 
#2 ·
Unfortunately if you have a bent pushrod it is not the pushrod's fault and there is something causing it so even if this is the scenario your luck has probably run out. Stuck/sticking valves and failing cam followers come to mind as do floating valves on trucks with programmers that take a beating. 6.0L and 7.3L engines are known for valve sicking concerns when stored and not run for long periods of time - always exhaust valves and when this occurs the affected cylinder will cause a popping sound from the intake. The ticking noise is probably your biggest clue. I would start with a relative compression test followed up with a manual compression test if anything shows up. At this mileage a crankcase pressure test is in order to determine if there are any lower end issues. When you swapped the injectors did you inspect the rocker arms, valve bridges and springs closely while you were in there?
 
#3 ·
I did not inspect anything while I was in there, as I assumed the injector was the issue. Nothing looked off to the eye, but like I said I didn't look in detail. Any way to handle the relative test on my own?

Guess I will start looking for another engine to maybe rebuild, I am WAY to far financially into this truck to give up now. I just hope it holds on long enough to find one and make that happen.
 
#4 ·
The relative compression test is a dynamic test run with a scan tool - the Ford IDS is best, I do not know if any aftermarket scanners have that test capability so ask around. All it does is compare the cylinders to each other and quickly identifies any cylinder(s) that have lower compression. A manual compression test and crankcase pressure test are recommended as a follow up which will provide you with more complete and accurate data to assess the engine condition and where the problem is. If the engine is making noise and you already know which cylinder is having problems (#6) you could begin disassembling the left cylinder head valvetrain and remove the head to inspect for wear and damage.
 
#5 ·
If the engine is making noise and you already know which cylinder is having problems (#6) you could begin disassembling the left cylinder head valvetrain and remove the head to inspect for wear and damage.

Thats likely where Im headed. I also will be picking up another 6.0 with HPOP issues as a rebuild candidate this week... so stay tuned for that! (I cant just bail on this truck after all has been spent on it) Im thinking now it may be an idea to put a head from the donor engine on my truck as a temporary solution, but will need some diagnosis on both first.

You mentioned that likely exhaust valves stuck open.. this makes sense as I cant get more than 12 lbs of boost, and It kinda sounds like its gulping sometimes.

I cant keep it running now.. seems to stall a lot and doesn't want to start without some long cranking, but it idles very well.. so confusing. Maybe I also have a glow plug issue or something.. but no other codes.
 
#6 ·
Actually the valves will stick closed because the piston won't let them stay open. And if this were the case it would idle like crap and shake.
 
#7 ·
I don't have a rough idle until it decides its going to stall. It will sit and run well.. then not so much. Most often as it comes down in idle after letting off the throttle. It just keeps falling.. then dies. Starts every time with a long crank. (sometimes in N while coasting at 60k) I just noticed on the torque app that ICP isn't reading... must have an incorrect PID. But would a failing/failed ICP cause stalling etc..

I think the valve issue, and the stalling issue are separate. It has been running for a while with the tick/smoke etc..

I have dropped it off at Ford cause I need to be working and cant take time to track this one. Hopefully they can sort it out and keep me going for a few more months while the rebuild is going on.

Will update findings.
 
#8 ·
Ugg..

It stalls every block now. Ford guy says everything tests ok without getting into manual tests. Was a worry of new injectors in early model engine. Alliant says you can put new style injector in early engine without issue. Not the other way tho.

Still havent replaced the Cam sensor. Guess thats on my "to do" for tomorrow.
 
#10 ·
I cant figure it out. Changed Cam sensor. No change. pulled and pushed on wires at FICM/injectors while running, cant make it stall. Drive half a block and it stalls, a long crank will get it running again.

Would the assumed head/valve issue allow it to stall?

What else other than ICP IPR or fuel would stop it from running. I see good numbers. Would a bad or chafed wire cause this? I would see a change in the sensors on my gauge setup would I not?
 
#12 ·
It sort of stumbles a bit.. you can feel it coming most times. A quick increase in rev and then a drop all the way down to 0. It happens pretty quick tho.



It has gotten progressively worse too.. it was only when cold about a week ago. Stall in the morning but be fine all day... now I cant get a block hot or cold. Now even at idle you can here the stumble here and there, but as its not under any load it seems stable enough to keep running.

Other than the stall, and the tick it runs like a champ at idle.

I will double check fuel filters and stuff tomorrow.. they are all knew but maybe I got some dirt in the system when I had all the stuff off for the oil cooler??
 
#13 ·
Fuel pressure should be checked too.
 
#14 ·
Checked the upper fuel filter today.. looks brand new. Ran it and after about 30 seconds at idle it starts to struggle. My wife even said "it sounds like its not getting fuel" So I went out and picked up a 100psi fuel gauge from Autometer. Including a 6' piece of braided line. The line cost as much as the gauge lol.

Problem is I cant source the adapter at the fuel bowl. Performance improvements didnt have one.. Princess auto doesnt have it, nor Canadian Tire. Will check Nappa, but its a holiday up here tomorrow so have to wait till tuesday.

Think I may just order one online.

Either way its down for now... :(

Question.. I have 13.7volts no problem while idleing, and I will load test the older battery in it tonight. But if I have good voltage, at the gauge will 1 partially bad battery cause this? Maybe a clean of terminals and connecters is in order.
 
#15 ·
OK so I changed fuel filters, and I am still waiting on the fitting to come in to be able to hook up the fuel gauge.

I fixed my ICP gauge PID and also noticed I didnt have IPR on the screen. Set that up, took it for a drive and ICP is good. IPR runs along at around 25% After the stall out, IPR is reading 85% untill it fires.. then runs at 25% untill stall. "Repeat" I know the IPR valve is new.

Took a look and it seems the pigtail has a good size break in it, and wire is exposed. So i need a pigtail and am crossing my fingers that this is the issue!!!

I guess this would not have given a code?


Please.. will someone say that this is likely my issue?
 
#16 ·
It might be. It also might be your fuel pump in the HFCM on the frame rail not delivering enough fuel.
 
#17 ·
Im going to say not likely.. The pump itself was replaced by the dealer a while ago.. I kind of hope it is tho, would be so easy.

Still waiting on that fuel adapter.
 
#18 ·
Well the unlikely becomes so.. lol



This pump was replaced by Ford 2 months ago. But they only replaced the unit inside the housing. Due to the fact I cant get the water separator plug out im going to assume the corrosion level inside the HFCM is to the point of no return and I will upgrade to a FASS system.

I just bought new fuel filters too... lol
 

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#19 · (Edited)
Well..

FASS System Installed. PSI at 55. A little noisy but thats ok. When I started it you could tell right away that the pump had an impact...

However, it did NOT sort out the stalling issue. Not 30 seconds after it started it was running rough and when I WOT it stalled out.

I am so frustrated.. but at least I know its not a fuel issue...


ALSO

I think I have a multifunction switch issue, as I have no brake lights in the tails... I have seen smoke come out of the steering column, and am now wondering what else could go on in there ??? Could there be electrical that is causing the stall issue as well???
 
#20 ·
Well..

Are any of you still reading? lol

Replaced the IPR pigtail this morning and that also did not change anything. Charged up the batteries, got it started and idled for 20min. It will run as long as you stay away from the throttle.

Im seeing at idle
Fuel 60-psi
957-HPOP
1.3-ICPv
31.6-IPR

With a bit of throttle till it stalls
Fuel 60-psi
1120-HPOP
1.5-ICPv
37.1-IPR

The increment and IPR% look proper.. but is that not a bit high for idle? The fact that this has seemed to have gotten worse over a short period of time feels more mechanical than electrical? Which has me thinking the HPOP is failing.. and the readings are fabricated by the PCM. I think DT Ron had a video about the possibility of that.

My next move I guess is to pull the valve cover and get a look at the rail etc from the injector job. Make sure I didn't cause an issue.

My wife is starting to get super mad that Im using her Kia SUV for work. I have a lot of dirty tools.
 
#21 ·
Hang in there. I don't have your answer, but someone will be along to help. I cannot remember, but have you swapped FICM's or had yours sent out for testing?
 
#22 ·
Sounds to me like you have an injector with a bad seal at the crush washer on the nozzle.

You said "Charged up the batteries, got it started and idled for 20min. It will run as long as you stay away from the throttle."

You also said that when it stalled out it stumbled as it shut off, it was not an instant off... You even proved that it had low fuel pressure. I suspect that the injector with the bad crush washer at the nozzle is allowing combustion gasses into the fuel system inside the head. This will push the fuel out of the head and read as low fuel pressure and starve that head of fuel.

All symptoms related to the stalling I have experienced and I replaced all injectors to ensure that the issue was corrected.
 
#23 · (Edited)
FICM was rebuilt about 3000km ago.

I was watching a video last night by DTR about failed injector install. I am totally seeing those symptoms. I was for sure in a rush.. It is quite possible I wound up with a bad seal. The reason I did not suspect this as the issue, is because it was starting to stall when cold, before I changed the injectors. It was more of the reason why I did it so soon.

I pulled them all today, picked up another pair to complete the side, as well as a couple new crush washers to replace the 2 new units.

Cant find a brush to clean the cups.. so will have to wait till tomorrow now.

I do enjoy a good lesson!!
 
#24 ·
As an update..

I did re-do the entire side of injectors. Pulled all 4, replaced the other 2, new crush washers. Cleaned all the cups, everything torqued to spec. Started it up and she ran great!

For about 25 seconds and the same symptom returned. :/

Towed it off to the shop last week and it sounds like its going to be either the crank sensor,or wiring/PCM. Crank sensor looks to be likely as the AC lines rusted off before I acquired the truck.. and they have been hanging on the sensor.. rubbing and rusting. So crossing fingers on this one, but I am convinced this truck is going to have a wire harness issue. The concrete company that owned it had lights, a plow and electric trailers etc.. and they basically just cut it all out when they sent it to auction.

Hopeful I have it back tomorrow.
 
#29 ·
You said you redid that side of injectors... What about the other side? Could be a bad injector itself and not just a failing crush washer. Also, you have not mentioned any code that this truck is producing. Has is been scanned and/or live data being monitored when it is stalling out and dying....
 
#25 ·
If you have reliable rpm indication, I am skeptical that the crank sensor is bad.
 
#26 ·
Ya... you are right. It was not the Crank Sensor... This one has us all stumped.

Mechanic is going to try a couple things.. but if it is in fact a wiring issue.. who knows how far this will go.. Hopeful at this point that it is the PCM.
 
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