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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 02-23-2010, 04:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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FICM Voltage

In reading some of the posts in regards to ficm voltage and when you should take it I am a little confused........ I pulled the cover off of my FICM and checked the voltage on the screw closest to the driver fender key on engine off and it read 48.3v. The even goofier thing is my edge attitude with juice is throwing a low FICM voltage code P0672 i believe.
Should you check the voltage key on engine off or engine on???? Some people say they are checking it WOT? Is this with a programmer?????
I love my PSD SD but sometimes it makes me wanna bang my head against the wall.

Any help or suggestions would be awesome.
Thanks all!!!!
Torey

2005 F350, 3" lift, 35" TOYO MT's, Edge Juice with attitude, DieselSite coolant filter, K&N intake and killer sound.

Last edited by mittto; 02-23-2010 at 04:13 PM. Reason: truck spec's
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Old 02-23-2010, 05:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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48 volts sounds right. That part of the reason these things are so failure prone is that they are stepping 14v up to 48v. I believe that you have top have the key on to energize the circuit. You could always try it will the key off and see if you still get voltage.

Just because you have a low voltage code doesn't mean the FICM is getting low voltage. It means that the ECM is seeing low voltage on its end. It's entirely possible that the problem is in the wiring between the FICM and the ECM.
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Old 02-23-2010, 05:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Key on, engine off (KOEO), the voltage should never drop below 46volts. If it does, your FICM is failing.
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Old 02-23-2010, 06:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Try it with the engine on and COLD. This will put a load on the FICM and give you a better indication of whats going on.
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Old 02-23-2010, 07:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Desertt5,
engine @ an idle or a little throttle?
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'05 F350 CC LB Lariat 3.73's
DieselSite Coolant filter
K&N Intake
Accufab Intake Elbow
FoMoCo Updated regulator spring
4" MBRP Turbo Back
Edge Juice W/Attitude
Isspro F/P and Tranny temp gauge
35" Toyo MT's
Bushwacker "Extend-A-Fender" flares "Thanks to Matt and the Bushwacker crew!!" Painted to match by my good friend Brandon @ Sandy AutoBody.
Firestone Ride-Rite air bags
Mag-Hytec Diff covers
Killer Sound System
BulletProof EGR cooler, new factory oil cooler, ARP Headstuds, factory HG's, STC fitting update, Updated Turbo drain pipe, Turbo rebuild, Injectors tested and new o-rings, all @ 109K.
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Old 02-23-2010, 08:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm really green on this , how about some step by step with photos for some of us goons with volt meters ? Larry
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Old 02-23-2010, 08:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Getting 48 volts with the engine running is no guarantee the FICM is not failing. As I said just a couple of posts up, you need to test it with the key on and engine off. That test should be done with the engine cold (as in, having set overnight).
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Old 02-23-2010, 08:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttmech View Post
I'm really green on this , how about some step by step with photos for some of us goons with volt meters ? Larry
Larry,

Do you have a 7-pin or a 4-pin FICM?? On the 4-pin, you need to test the far right pin. On the 7-pin, you test the far left on the row of 4. Be very careful to not touch the case!! Doing so will ruin the FICM and might well kill you too.
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2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)

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Old 02-23-2010, 09:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Really green, can you tell buy looking at it or do yu have to open it ?
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Old 02-23-2010, 10:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Really green, can you tell buy looking at it or do yu have to open it ?
You are going to have to remove the small cover on the top of the FICM.

BTW, no offense intended but if you are as "green" as you say you are, I would suggest doing a search for the testing process and read up on it before you try it for yourself...
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Old 02-24-2010, 07:52 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks teamroper, i am treading in uncharted waters, I'm just looking for more detail on testing and not coming up with even how to begin , I've got some time today and will search a bit more , Thanks Larry/ P.S no offense taken
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Old 02-24-2010, 09:34 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Getting 48 volts with the engine running is no guarantee the FICM is not failing. As I said just a couple of posts up, you need to test it with the key on and engine off. That test should be done with the engine cold (as in, having set overnight).
Just curious, why would you not want to test it with the engine on also? This will put a load on the circuits and give you an idea of how it performs. My FICM read 47V with the key on engine off. With the engine started it would drop to 26V when the engine was cold.

Of course this testing is no guarantee the FICM is good, but it is an effective way to find a possibly bad FICM without the use of other testers.
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Old 02-24-2010, 12:32 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Sorry to steal the thread, just pulled vltage and it reads 50.2 V, so ficm is good but still hasthe cold start issue that resembles what you guys are describing , chugs at first start up even in heated garage and the straightens out and when warm runs like a swiss watch , what gives ? and the chug atstart up is like after changing fuel filters , and this is new ,just started a week ago , Thanks for all the help prior , Larry
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Old 02-24-2010, 04:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I tested it dead cold, key on engine off and came up with 48.3v. But like I said in the original post I have seen where some people say do it with the engine running??????????
I know I do need to check my FP and make sure that it is where it needs to be.
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'05 F350 CC LB Lariat 3.73's
DieselSite Coolant filter
K&N Intake
Accufab Intake Elbow
FoMoCo Updated regulator spring
4" MBRP Turbo Back
Edge Juice W/Attitude
Isspro F/P and Tranny temp gauge
35" Toyo MT's
Bushwacker "Extend-A-Fender" flares "Thanks to Matt and the Bushwacker crew!!" Painted to match by my good friend Brandon @ Sandy AutoBody.
Firestone Ride-Rite air bags
Mag-Hytec Diff covers
Killer Sound System
BulletProof EGR cooler, new factory oil cooler, ARP Headstuds, factory HG's, STC fitting update, Updated Turbo drain pipe, Turbo rebuild, Injectors tested and new o-rings, all @ 109K.
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Old 02-27-2010, 12:00 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Check it with the engine on also. You CANNOT hurt it by taking voltage readings.... as long as you are careful not to short it against case.
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