First Fuel Filter Change - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 09-10-2009, 03:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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First Fuel Filter Change

Folks,
I have not used my truck much and I am coming up on my first fuel filter change. I understand that there is one in the engine vally and one under the driver in the frame rail. Is there any special tricks that I should know to make this job painless????
Thanks
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Old 09-10-2009, 04:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Pics/info. here Fuel Filter replacement I've changed top ff without draining fuel. Bottom one (hfcm) drain fuel 1st. then cap off. 5gal. can to catch draining fuel or ?
Fuel may/maynot stop draining? If after a cup or 2 at most..if fuel dosent stop, just stick the plug back in. Good luck!

btw..if interested..catch some fuel in clear jar..easy to spot any water n fuel etc.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Just remember to change these filters at the most 20,000 miles, Ford now recommends this, I change mine every 10,000.
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Ford recommends replacing fuel filters every 15,000 miles for normal duty, or every 10,000 miles for Special Operating Conditions (using biodiesel fuel or driving in offroad or dusty conditions).
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:19 AM   #5 (permalink)
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24mm socket up top, 36mm below, 6mm allen wrench to drain water seperator before removing lid, I read a while back that factory fuel filters were marked with "FF" to show if anyone had fuel/injector problems and had not replaced FF it would not be covered. Its not bad on the frame rail, just a little more time consuming, put a little fuel on the o-rings. I turn my key on, but dont start, let the fuel pump run, I do this 4-5 times to let the fuel system fill back up (pressurize and no air) I have never had a problem yet!!
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Old 09-11-2009, 06:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwelch1 View Post
24mm socket up top, 36mm below, 6mm allen wrench to drain water seperator before removing lid, I read a while back that factory fuel filters were marked with "FF" to show if anyone had fuel/injector problems and had not replaced FF it would not be covered. Its not bad on the frame rail, just a little more time consuming, put a little fuel on the o-rings. I turn my key on, but dont start, let the fuel pump run, I do this 4-5 times to let the fuel system fill back up (pressurize and no air) I have never had a problem yet!!
Do not use fuel on the O rings! Use either motor oil or vaseline. Diesel can cause the O ring to swell and thus distort while torqueing. Do use a torque wrench. The setting is stamped on the fuel filter caps. The cap should bottom out before the torque wrench clicks. If not you are either cross threaded or the O ring has bound up.
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Old 09-12-2009, 12:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Do not use fuel on the O rings! Use either motor oil or vaseline. Diesel can cause the O ring to swell and thus distort while torqueing. Do use a torque wrench. The setting is stamped on the fuel filter caps. The cap should bottom out before the torque wrench clicks. If not you are either cross threaded or the O ring has bound up.
If the O-Ring is there to seal the fuel in, doesn't it get fuel on it anyway? I only ask because I lubed mine with fuel, same as when I do my oil filter I lube it with oil.

Adam
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Old 09-12-2009, 01:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It doesn't matter once the cap is torqued. If it should swell it will just seal better. You don't want it to swell prior to torqueing as this is when it will distort. That is why they give you a new O ring with each kit. You'll notice that they don't do that with the tranny filter and you can reuse it.
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Old 09-12-2009, 02:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Then get one of these and it'll make your life easier....Diesel Technician Society
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Old 09-12-2009, 02:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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They are great but I don't see the connection to the original question.
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Old 09-12-2009, 03:30 PM   #11 (permalink)
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If the O-Ring is there to seal the fuel in, doesn't it get fuel on it anyway? I only ask because I lubed mine with fuel, same as when I do my oil filter I lube it with oil.

Adam
The oil protects the o-ring rubber, just as 69cj said. I made the mistake of not putting oil on the HFCM drain plug (I have the aftermarket one w/ the knurled knob). The o-ring on it failed after 20k miles. Luckily I kept the OEM plug and the o-ring on it worked nicely.
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Old 09-13-2009, 01:20 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks guys.

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Old 09-13-2009, 11:21 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Take your time and it is an easy job.
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Old 09-13-2009, 03:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Make sure to use only Raycor/Motorcraft filters. My truck came with NAPA filters in it when I bought it with 24k miles. They fit like crap, didn't have the gauze around the primary filter, and broke the little black plastic stand pipe type thing in the secondary filter base. Never had a problem with the Raycor's. Buy them from an International dealer.

PS. If you want to avoid a diesel bath. Tear off a good size piece of aluminum foil before you go outside to do your truck. Fashion a funnel type of thing that goes up under the HFCM and shapes down to a spout where you can hold some sort of catch container. If not you'll be bathing in fuel when it splashes off the frame rail and front drive shaft. I usually take an old 1 gal milk jug and cut a the top off but leave the part of it with the handle. Works good.
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Old 09-13-2009, 03:44 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Land_Surveyor View Post
Is there any special tricks that I should know to make this job painless????
Thanks
"Then get one of these and it'll make your life easier....Diesel Technician Society"

"They are great but I don't see the connection to the original question."


This doesn't help w/ a filter change??? Helps me w/o getting fuel everywhere!!!
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Charcoal Gray/Black,
Tint,RhinoLined,Sirius,Roll&Lock,Strobes,
SCT X3 Custom Tuned by Innovative,
MBRP Stainless 4" Turbo Back,
ISSPRO Pyro,Boost, & Trans Gauges
Prodigy Brake Controller,Remote Start and Turbo Cooldown,
High Idle Mod., PM-13A on the Oil Pan,
HFCM Plug Upgrade,DieselSite Coolant Filter,
Energy Suspension Bushings,& Stanadyne every tank

Last edited by my03psd; 09-13-2009 at 03:50 PM.
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