6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
Folks,
I have not used my truck much and I am coming up on my first fuel filter change. I understand that there is one in the engine vally and one under the driver in the frame rail. Is there any special tricks that I should know to make this job painless????
Thanks
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1996 F-350 Reg. Cab,4x4, Snowplow, Down Pipe, Intake, Guages
2006 6.0L, 4X4, CC
Pics/info. here Fuel Filter replacement I've changed top ff without draining fuel. Bottom one (hfcm) drain fuel 1st. then cap off. 5gal. can to catch draining fuel or ?
Fuel may/maynot stop draining? If after a cup or 2 at most..if fuel dosent stop, just stick the plug back in. Good luck!
btw..if interested..catch some fuel in clear jar..easy to spot any water n fuel etc.
Ford recommends replacing fuel filters every 15,000 miles for normal duty, or every 10,000 miles for Special Operating Conditions (using biodiesel fuel or driving in offroad or dusty conditions).
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2004 F-250 Lariat CC, Short Bed, 4x4, 6.0L, TorqShift, FX4, Metallic Green/Arizona Beige, Medium Parchment Leather, Fumoto, B&W Turnover, A.R.E. LSX Tonneau, Built 4/01/04
24mm socket up top, 36mm below, 6mm allen wrench to drain water seperator before removing lid, I read a while back that factory fuel filters were marked with "FF" to show if anyone had fuel/injector problems and had not replaced FF it would not be covered. Its not bad on the frame rail, just a little more time consuming, put a little fuel on the o-rings. I turn my key on, but dont start, let the fuel pump run, I do this 4-5 times to let the fuel system fill back up (pressurize and no air) I have never had a problem yet!!
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2004 F-250 Crew Cab XLT, Auto, Short Bed, Arizona Beige, Fx4/Camper Pkg., 265's, Built 4/23/04, Delivered 4/27/04
Retrax Bed Cover,Crimestopper Alarm/ Keyless Entry/ Remote Start/ Skweeker Idle Up Mod/ Marinco Built in Heater Plug/ Dieselsite coolant filter My Truck
24mm socket up top, 36mm below, 6mm allen wrench to drain water seperator before removing lid, I read a while back that factory fuel filters were marked with "FF" to show if anyone had fuel/injector problems and had not replaced FF it would not be covered. Its not bad on the frame rail, just a little more time consuming, put a little fuel on the o-rings. I turn my key on, but dont start, let the fuel pump run, I do this 4-5 times to let the fuel system fill back up (pressurize and no air) I have never had a problem yet!!
Do not use fuel on the O rings! Use either motor oil or vaseline. Diesel can cause the O ring to swell and thus distort while torqueing. Do use a torque wrench. The setting is stamped on the fuel filter caps. The cap should bottom out before the torque wrench clicks. If not you are either cross threaded or the O ring has bound up.
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2005 Lariet, 6.0, 3:73 1969 Mach 1, 428 CJ
1971 Triumph Trident(SOLD)
2007 Road King flhp
2007 Jazz 5er, 11k
173rd Airborne
Do not use fuel on the O rings! Use either motor oil or vaseline. Diesel can cause the O ring to swell and thus distort while torqueing. Do use a torque wrench. The setting is stamped on the fuel filter caps. The cap should bottom out before the torque wrench clicks. If not you are either cross threaded or the O ring has bound up.
If the O-Ring is there to seal the fuel in, doesn't it get fuel on it anyway? I only ask because I lubed mine with fuel, same as when I do my oil filter I lube it with oil.
It doesn't matter once the cap is torqued. If it should swell it will just seal better. You don't want it to swell prior to torqueing as this is when it will distort. That is why they give you a new O ring with each kit. You'll notice that they don't do that with the tranny filter and you can reuse it.
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2005 Lariet, 6.0, 3:73 1969 Mach 1, 428 CJ
1971 Triumph Trident(SOLD)
2007 Road King flhp
2007 Jazz 5er, 11k
173rd Airborne
If the O-Ring is there to seal the fuel in, doesn't it get fuel on it anyway? I only ask because I lubed mine with fuel, same as when I do my oil filter I lube it with oil.
Adam
The oil protects the o-ring rubber, just as 69cj said. I made the mistake of not putting oil on the HFCM drain plug (I have the aftermarket one w/ the knurled knob). The o-ring on it failed after 20k miles. Luckily I kept the OEM plug and the o-ring on it worked nicely.
Make sure to use only Raycor/Motorcraft filters. My truck came with NAPA filters in it when I bought it with 24k miles. They fit like crap, didn't have the gauze around the primary filter, and broke the little black plastic stand pipe type thing in the secondary filter base. Never had a problem with the Raycor's. Buy them from an International dealer.
PS. If you want to avoid a diesel bath. Tear off a good size piece of aluminum foil before you go outside to do your truck. Fashion a funnel type of thing that goes up under the HFCM and shapes down to a spout where you can hold some sort of catch container. If not you'll be bathing in fuel when it splashes off the frame rail and front drive shaft. I usually take an old 1 gal milk jug and cut a the top off but leave the part of it with the handle. Works good.
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