6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
If you have the 4 post FICM (remove little cover on top below are 4 or 7 screws). Check the voltage on the screw closest to the fender and ground if less than 45 volts engine running you most likely can repair it yourself and no reprogramming needed (dont touch probe from screw to the case).
Remove FICM from truck. Remove the following; small cover on top of ficm, 4 screws that are under cover, 6 screw on other side holding case together. Split case. Re solder places circled in pics. Put back together and check volts.
Can you identify on your pictures which screw to check the voltage with?
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-2004 6.0PSD Excursion Limited 4X4 with Limited Slip and TT Mirrors.
-1993 Wrangler with everything! ARBs, Gears, On Board Air, Rhino Lined, Trailer, 35s, 4:56s, 8.8" Rear, Racks, Lights, Cans, Winch, GPS, Revolvers, OME, and on and on and on!
So if the FICM would fail to the tune of 1,400 bucks installed, would doing this have prevented the failure? This happened less than a year ago. Is the new one better?
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03 F-250xlt 6.0, SOLD April 2010! Replaced by an 07 GMC Yukon XL, and a 99 F350 crew cab, long bed 4x4, 6 speed. 69 Shelby GT500, 428 Cobra Jet, 4 speed toploader.
67 Fairlane 500, 347 Stroker, AOD trans, 3.25 rear end... work in progress. I am looking for parts that I thought I had so carefully put away...............
Work "Truck" 110 foot, 1999 Spartan/ LTI quint, Detroit Series 60, Allison auto. Work "Engine" 06 Pierce Arrow, Detroit Series 60, 475 horse, Allison Auto. Work Medic unit, 08 E450 6.0 by Northstar.
Check the org swap had a post about voltages and the screws. The solder degrades over time. When cold the solder shrinks up causing a larger gap and no conituity. Re soldering the joints restores the conection. This happens to all electrical solder joints and is said to be the cause on other items such as the overhead console readout problems
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2006 f250 4x4
crewcab short bed
lariat 6.0psd
auto, electric tcase
soon to have isspro
fire/air/trans/fuel
stock suspension and
pretty much everything
else
Im wondering if related or n/a? Php tuner said fmc said orig. heat inductive flash to ficm could damage it due to excessive current draw & fmc updated orig. h.i. strategy hopefully to correct that issue. Now solder may go bad, what's next?
A lot of issues have come from ficms. This is simply one easy fix and does not address all potential problems. Just basically a diy fix for a common problem. New ficms are $600+ then add $200+ for diag and tuning and you see why a lot of people are trying to fix them.
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2006 f250 4x4
crewcab short bed
lariat 6.0psd
auto, electric tcase
soon to have isspro
fire/air/trans/fuel
stock suspension and
pretty much everything
else
A lot of issues have come from ficms. This is simply one easy fix and does not address all potential problems. Just basically a diy fix for a common problem. New ficms are $600+ then add $200+ for diag and tuning and you see why a lot of people are trying to fix them.
Just curious what other problems from FICM's? All I have heard about is low voltage, or different programming whcih seem to be unrelated. TIA.
d...I'll check mine out. Hopefully I find right place to take V reading. Red circle in pic..do I see "16" place's to resolder? Did you use low wattage solder iron or ? TIA
I used a 75W $3 iron. All I had at home. It was a little slower than I would have liked but worked. Yep 16 solder points. DrQuad listed 4 on the other side of the board too. I didn't do those and had luck. I would recommend doing them though.
As far as the V reading goes, its either on the top or bottom screw head.
What it sounds like is happening here is some connections to the transistor legs are failing causing a low output voltage. Happens with the overhead as well as other models/companies boards as well.
I would recommend that if your resoldering these, and it would not hurt even if you don't have a current problem but have nothing but time on your hands, that you use the best solder available for doing this. The standard electrical 63/47 or thereabout versions are not the best.
I’ve learned working with audio equipment (the expensive kind) you want at least a solder with some silver in it, and the very best is a quad mix, which also includes copper. Here is some info to read:
In working with audio equipment (the expensive kind) you want at least a solder with some silver in it, and the very best is a quad mix, which also includes copper. Here is some info to read:
Hmmm - what about the higher temps required to use this kind of solder? Won't that affect some of the components?
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2006 F350 Dually 6.0L Tommy Gate Lo0oking for heated seats !
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