Fix Your FICM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[FMTRVT]

I really don't think the components get any hotter. If your using one of the standard non-adjustable soldering irons, it is what it is no matter what the solder. I've got one of those, a Weller 200/250w unit and a Hakko adjustable temp unit. IMO the Tri or Quad solders just flow so much better that I believe the time with the iron on the component leg or board is shorter.

[klhansen]

Originally Posted by rcgreg

Hmmm - what about the higher temps required to use this kind of solder? Won't that affect some of the components?

Check out the link that Jack posted. The word "eutectic" is key. What it means is that it's an alloy that has a melting point below any of it's components individually. That's the magic of eutectic solder materials.

Here's a clip from wikipedia, (with some highlights added by me)

Different elements serve different roles in the solder alloy:

• Silver provides mechanical strength, but has worse ductility than lead. In absence of lead, it improves resistance to fatigue from thermal cycles.
• Copper lowers the melting point, improves resistance to thermal cycle fatigue, and improves wetting properties of the molten solder. It also slows down the rate of dissolution of copper from the board and part leads in the liquid solder.
• Bismuth significantly lowers the melting point and improves wettability. In presence of sufficient lead and tin, bismuth forms crystals of Sn16Pb32Bi52 with melting point of only 95 °C, which diffuses along the grain boundaries and may cause a joint failure at relatively low temperatures. A high-power part pre-tinned with an alloy of lead can therefore desolder under load when soldered with a bismuth-containing solder.
• Indium lowers the melting point and improves ductility. In presence of lead it forms a ternary compound that undergoes phase change at 114 °C.
• Zinc lowers the melting point and is low-cost. However it is highly susceptible to corrosion and oxidation in air, therefore zinc-containing alloys are unsuitable for some purposes, e.g. wave soldering, and zinc-containing solder pastes have shorter shelf life than zinc-free.
• Antimony is added to increase strength without affecting wettability.

Click here Solder - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia for the full discussion.

Solder ain't just lead and tin anymore.

[OT]

D5...Does all the old solder have to be removed or just heat/add more? Just thinking ahead should mine need it. TIA

[FMTRVT]

Just add more.

[legends13]

OK, So I went to do this, and here is what I found. My FICM was at about 35V. Ok, let's do it. Start taking the ficm apart, and here is what it looked like.

My question is, did you have to scrap all of the rubber like coating off of yours, or was it not there to begin with? If it was there, did you reapply some sort of coating?

[FMTRVT]

Hard to judge, but that almost looks like a potting compound, not rubber. I can't tell you one way or the other as I have not taken mine apart.

But whomever does should report back their preliminary voltage as well as the voltage after re-soldering so the group can see the effectiveness.

If your not familiar with soldering or feel that your skills make you a little apprehensive, there is a good chance that you can fine a TV repair shop in the area what would do the soldering for you. It's not going to take long before this thread is noted by Ford and "core" FICMs will be checked for consumer damage before core charges are refunded. Take my word for this.

[sig556]

Thanks for the guide an info.

[4ceFed]

Originally Posted by legends13

OK, So I went to do this, and here is what I found. My FICM was at about 35V. Ok, let's do it. Start taking the ficm apart, and here is what it looked like.

My question is, did you have to scrap all of the rubber like coating off of yours, or was it not there to begin with? If it was there, did you reapply some sort of coating?

I took one apart yesterday and it looked like the one you have. I just scraped the rubber off the screw heads to remove them, then you can solder the back.

[FMTRVT]

So it is a clear rubber compound. Love to know why that was done.

So the one you did, was the voltage 35vdc and improved to 45vdc?

[DrQuad]

I used a blow dryer to heat the stuff and pull it off. It acts like hot melt glue. I only removed enough so to get to the components. No I did not reapply it.
Voltage before 26.5, after 47.5.

[jdw1222]

anyone have the pictures they can repost. For some reason they aren't workign and just showing a red X

[DrQuad]

FICM pictures by DrQuad - Photobucket

[lightningfast2]

ok, what all are you guys removing to get in to test this and still being able to crank truck? i see that the degause fill for anti freeze is in way along with all its hoses. Does everyone drain it some and remove that or what? Trying to not reinvent the wheel here and cut down on alot of fustration for an already crappy day. Any help would be great.

Thanks.

Scot

[lightningfast2]

ok, so I found how to get into it and test if the small brass cover is what it was and there was 7 screws. 4 on firewall side and 3 on other side right next to each other and you test the bottom one closest to the fender. If that is it, then i'm getting like 13.8 volts. Someone let me know if I'm at the right place so I will know of this module is worth checking or just get ready to replace.

[desertt5]

You are in the right place. The 13.8V sounds like the input voltage, maybe logic voltage ( whatever they call it there). Check the screw furthest away from tht one. If your truck runs you should find at least 25V i would think. I probed all the screws, just to see what other readings might be there.

Just be careful not to touch the casing while probing. "Zap pow" could be a very bad thing.