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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 07-01-2009, 05:32 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I think they're putting out CYA letters. Sorta like the letter I got telling me the death wobble is caused by me not keeping my tires inflated. Wonder why I haven't had the problem since they replaced the damper bracket with a more robust version. Suddenly I'm keeping my tires maintained better??

Oh yes! This is exactly what I feel. I did speak to Ford customer care today and they were interested in my repairs but definitely not ready to offer any monetary compensation or offer any other options to my problem.

I too have had the "death wobble" which in fact I think broke my lower tie rod. Soon after I replaced it and had the truck aligned, I got that letter. CYA, really helps to eliminate several class action lawsuits right?
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Old 07-02-2009, 01:45 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Ford, I think they owe every 6.0 owner a complete overhaul to correct their madness and lack of testing.

Looking at $3500-$4000 for oil cooler and ERG replacement. I find out the heads had been replaced prior to my ownership (I bought the truck with 24-39K, can't recall exactly without pulling paperwork). Trany Temp Sensor is a POS (Piece Of SxxT) part, and is another KNOWN failure.

From September 2008. $750 Brakes. $80 & $160 labor for Tran Temp Sensor. $225 batteries and now the $3500 for the oil cooler/erg cooler, all this under 150,000K miles. I ran my V8 GM gas products much longer and a whole lot harder and never had any major issues....

I know what my next truck will be, and it'll be more than four letters based on my prior two Fords, a F150 and my current F250.
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Old 07-02-2009, 07:12 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I agree - there are some expensive weaknesses on our 6.0L engines. However, I will say "good luck getting a truck (more than 4 letters) that will not need batteries and brake work before 150k". These items are not even worth mentioning in a post unless they happen at 50k or less. If you are up to an EGR system delete and head studs, these trucks will be well on the way to being very strong and reliable. I know it is expensive, but w/ no warranty - I would find it VERY hard to stick in a "replacement in kind" EGR cooler.
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Old 07-02-2009, 08:23 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Go to the Dodge/Cummins and the Chevy?GMC/Duramax forums and spend some time there viewing their problems. Dodge, most unreliable automatic transmission of any domestic truck. 3rd. generation and later injector failure is very common probably due to Dodge not having adequate fuel filtration. Certain Cummins block casting numbers will develop cracks starting at the rear of the block. The Duramax has major problems with injectors. No one knows how many problems were brought on by the performance tuners then the owner blames the maker for the troubles.
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Old 07-02-2009, 09:05 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I have zero problems on the brakes and batteries, except that the capliar (sp) broke into two pieces....

More than a four letter word, and it'll say gas or Cummins, Allison (sp) if diesel is the way I go. Diesel, you should get 300k before massive internal problems.
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Old 07-02-2009, 12:58 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I agree - there are some expensive weaknesses on our 6.0L engines. However, I will say "good luck getting a truck (more than 4 letters) that will not need batteries and brake work before 150k". These items are not even worth mentioning in a post unless they happen at 50k or less. If you are up to an EGR system delete and head studs, these trucks will be well on the way to being very strong and reliable. I know it is expensive, but w/ no warranty - I would find it VERY hard to stick in a "replacement in kind" EGR cooler.

I had both of my front calipers seize up on my 06 F250 with less than 40K miles on them. I brought the truck in at LEAST three times complaining of the calipers sticking BEFORE 36k miles. At 38K miles when the truck was in for something completely unrelated (torque converter blew apart) at a different dealership, they told me I should look at replacing my brakes. Not too long after this the right side went metal to metal and left a lot of nice metal flakes down the entire side of my truck so every time it gets a bath, I still find a few little rust spots here and there (the brake material stuck to the side of the truck).

I always had a TON of brake dust, and they told me it was NORMAL. HAHAH. jerks. They even suggested those silly looking brake guards. Way to cover up a problem...

I put on NAPA parts (even though the NAPA calipers say FORD on them...) and the higher end NAPA pads, and now they work excellent and have NO brake dust.

I dont tow ever, so my brakes are not used nearly as hard as some of your guys trucks, this is unacceptable. Now it looks like I'm starting to get a lot of brake dust on the rear passenger wheel... might as well just go replace all that stuff too... anyways sorry for the rant.



So what's the deal with this special coolant? Why does the 6.0 NEED this coolant? I dont get it... I have friends with 6.0's that lose SO much coolant on daily driving that they gave up buying the expensive gold coolant from the dealer and add just deionized water. Should they not be doing this? One truck we are doing and EGR delete this weekend, so I will tell him to add the gold coolant when we are done, but WHY?

Thanks all!

Even though we all have some bad experiences with our dealers, I know I'm just glad I have these forums to turn to when the dealer is of no assistance.
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Old 07-02-2009, 01:13 PM   #22 (permalink)
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FYI, Ford does not manufacture rotors for car or trucks.
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:56 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Mike..r u serious when you ask "WHY" if so..start here Valvoline.com > Products > Antifreeze Radiator Products > Antifreeze > Zerex G Research/read if your really interested. Your friends using water due to loss (no a/f) to save $ instead of fixing problem is understandable as emergency fix..certainly not long term. Good luck!
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Old 07-02-2009, 08:05 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Got my letter today.Where are you guys getting the test strips?I follow all my maintenance just about to the mile so that's not a problem, but I do want to check the coolant.
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:05 PM   #25 (permalink)
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You can get the test strips at NAPA, if your going to buy the 50 strip bottle make sure you have at least a year or more before the expiration date runs out on the cap. Wix filtration corp. coolant test strips.
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Old 07-03-2009, 12:46 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Thanks, just noticed in the letter that you can get them at the dealer too.Gonna go to NAPA first, I'm sure thay're cheaper there.
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Prodigy Brake Controller,Remote Start and Turbo Cooldown,
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