Frame mounted fuel water separator!!! GRRRRR

[ArbrnEngr]

OK does anyone have any idea on how to remove the Black cap to change the filter?

The 30 plus $$ 35mm soccet from ford has roundes the plastic and wont bite.



What moron designs these things.

A plastic cap, under a 4X4 truck, which sits next to a cross member and is wrapped by fuel lines so you have to use a 2 foot extension and a socket larger than most cars axle nuts.

And while I am at it any ideas on draining the water in the winter using the plug that takes an allen wrench?

The drain plug is conveniently behind the drive shaft and too close to get at without dropping the drive shaft.

Really. Move the thing back on the frame rail and there would be so much clearance I could set up a table, chair and have coffee while working on the filer cap.
But noooo lets make it hard for someone to work on it.

[ford_doctor]

Having fun with that Dave?

The 36MM socket is not what rounds off the filter caps. It's the use of channel-locks or the wrong socket that does it. I see it all the time.

[dcovaleski]

A standard 90 degree 6mm allen wrench should suffice with keeping the driveshaft in....also a 36mm socket with a swivel head ratchet should be able to get it there in front of the crossmember. I know the plugs are know for stripping out and usually result in buying a new cover. Theres a plug from the lcf models that does work really nice though.

[bismic]

Improved Fuel Filter (HFCM) drain plug
DTS Articles - HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade
Optional fuel filter drain plug Ford #6E7Z-9C082-A or International #2589259C91
2003.5-2007 Ford F250 F350 Powerstroke 6.0L Turbo Diesel HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade
O-ring for both the OEM plug and the new style drain plug:
Buna #111 (can get them from "rubber goods" stores)
O-Ring, Buna-N, AS568A-111, Rnd, PK100 - O-Rings - Supplies - 1KEZ8 : Grainger Industrial Supply

[bismic]

New Primary Fuel Filter Cap
Ford - 3C3Z-9G270-BA
International - 1825190C91 or 1813354C3 (not sure which one)

Order one from TousleyFordParts.com

The $8 socket (it is a short socket) from Lisle (at most autoparts stires) works like a champ w/ an "offset" ratchet.

[ArbrnEngr]

Diesel Doc, 9 uses of the Ford made tool. Not Channel Locks.

I realize you may see this alot, but I am the guy who buys the right tools from Ford.

The Socket, actually grabs the flats, but the real problem is it is plastic and the tool is steel. Obviously we know which will wear out first.

Dcovaleski,
I can get to the cap, it is rounded off. As far as the 6mm allen wrench, As with the socket above, I bought the wrench from Ford and it doesn't fit between the drive shaft and the pump. I have dropped the drive shaft twice, and jacked up the truck from the frame once to get the susspension to sag enough to move the drive shaft down. I am lucky in that I use a quality fuel drier in the winter.

Ultimately though I need a solution for the cap at this point. We all know that these diesels need clean fuel.

[ArbrnEngr]

Bismic, Great link for the drain plug, and thanks for the PN for the cap.

[cyclone3565]

I have replaced my fuel filters many times using a Craftsman socket and 6mm Allen Wrench and have never had any issues. Take me all of 5 minutes to drain the water, put plug back in, remove cap, wipe clean, lube oring, insert filter and tighten, Done. channelocks have their place but it is not on these caps.

[ArbrnEngr]

Yeah, got it on the Channel Locks.
NEVER USED THEM IN THE 6 Years I have owned the truck.

How about something constructive gentleman?
Any Ideas on how to remove the cap after it has been worn down from wear.
Really No issues with a NEW Cap and the Socket I already own, but again after 9 changes the cap is just worn out.

I will get a new one tomorrow, or maybe the next.

[dcovaleski]

Actually the information these gentleman provided about the tools necessary is very useful. There IS a torque spec for the cap, basically when it stops turning, it is tight. I understand your frustration, but realistacly theres no reason to remove drivetrain components, or jack the vehicle up. If the cap is that stuck, you may need to remove the fuel pump/filter assebly (3 13mm nuts on outside of frame, 4 fuel lines, two of which you need the tool, and two that are quick disconnect, and two plugs) and remove the cap that way. Us "useless information guys" aren't here to tell you that your an idiot, we are here to explain the procedures for what has to be done.

[ArbrnEngr]

Dcovaleski,
I apreciate the information, and I never said it was useless.

I asked for constructive help.
You have and Bismic have given helpful ideas.

I am not on here often and usually it is to check in or ask for help.
But honestly, telling me not to use channel locks and to buy tools that I already stated I have, and have been using for years, is not constructive.

I know most do not know me or what I do or how I work, but my second sentence said I bought the coorect tool from Ford.

I am the guy that
1. Listens to other points of view, actively listens.
2. Rereads or summarizes what I heard or read to make sure I got it correct.
3. I always buy the right tool, If it is for Fuel, Brakes, Hydrolics, or Electronics, I go to the manufacturer. (I have a complete set of Honda Fuel Line disconnect tools, wifes car, and countless transmission spline aligment tools to show as proof.)
4. I am also a firm believer in K.I.S.S. (The fuel cap on top of the engine has a 1/2" recess for a ratchet or extension. It looks new. The plastic never distorts. The Oil cap and bottom fuel cap need a socket, and the Ford Socket rounds the ends of the plastic caps.)
5. I am very apreciative of those who offer help, So I will say it, I am sorry if the way I wrote something offended anyone.

I wish I could figure out a way to get the cap off without dropping the fuel pump completely. Not loooking to good though.

As far as the drain plug, not sure about other truck but with mine sitting flat in the driveway I cannot access the drain plug with an allen wrench, it is too close.
I am fortunate that the fuel water light has only lit 3 times in 100k plus miles. The reason I dropped the drive shaft is because of where I was. I didn't have the ability to lift the truck to get the suspendion to sag to pull the shaft down with it. Either way the space between the drive shaft and the plug measures just over 7/8" of an inch and the allen wrench for Ford is 1-1/8" to the bend, 3/8" too long. I originally slid a stubby 6mm allen from Crafstman into the plug but it seemed loose. The Ford Wrench mics at 6.5mm and fits snug when the drive shaft is out of the way.

[dcovaleski]

I've honestly never used to Ford tools so I can't comment on the quality or construction of them. But do be carefull with that fuel filter cap!! They have been known to crack by using the 1/2" drive option. Regardless though, at this point I personallu would be considering removing the asaembly from the truck to prevent further aggrivation.

[DELTAJOHN]

I've never had a problem as well, I lubricate the "O" ring with a light coating of grease, and tighten just till snug, I think the FORD torque is WAY too tight. I feel the grease makes it easier to remove, because it stays with the seal and won't run off like oil.

I use a Snap-On double sided socket, it has the oil hex and the secondary fuel as well, neat!

[bismic]

Originally Posted by dcovaleski

But do be carefull with that secondary fuel filter cap!! They have been known to crack by using the 1/2" drive option.

+1 .

[JW350]

Originally Posted by ArbrnEngr

...I wish I could figure out a way to get the cap off without dropping the fuel pump completely. Not loooking to good though...

Perhaps a traditional oil filter wrench, or "strap" wrench (Craftsman)?