6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
I just paid $1058.00 for a FICM and programing.
I noticed that when I put my meater on the battery it don't start charging right away.
it takes a few seconds after the truck starts.
but then it goes up to 13.6 v. could my altanator be going bad and if so would that have shown up when they checked the FICM
...although, the dealer will insist on the $100 anyway like mine did... A bad FICM seems to generally follow a bad set of batteries or a bad alternator. Thing is way to fragile...
I just replaced my alternator with a NAPA lifetime guaranteed unit, 3 months later, it went out again and was replaced last week, under the parts warranty. Now the truck is in the shop getting the FICM replaced. Is there any way to prove the alternator caused the outage? Any chance of getting NAPA to pay the FICM bill?
FWIW, and this is direct from my stealership, there are NO new FICMs, they are all reman'd units....some might just look newer than others.
International will not sell you a FICM, if they know you're buying it for a Ford...at least the International shop here in town won't.
__________________ Fred
2004 F-350 CC DRW LB FX4 4x4
Oxford White/Arizona Beige
King Ranch
Herrin Hauler bed
4.10 Trac-Lok
Reman'd 6.0L @43,956 miles
Reman'd Turbo @54,814 miles
FWIW, and this is direct from my stealership, there are NO new FICMs, they are all reman'd units....some might just look newer than others.
International will not sell you a FICM, if they know you're buying it for a Ford...at least the International shop here in town won't.
Why such a swing in prices then? Mine cost me 1400, and the dealer said it was a new one, my invoice didnt say reman FICM. A reman is new internals with the old shell or casing, like trannies or alternators?
I wonder what part of it breaks and what they do to fix it? So it will just break the same way again in the future? Whatever goes bad inside them.
__________________
The 6.0l motor has surpassed Hot Chicks as the greatest Money reducing Agent known to Mankind.
2004 F-250 Lariat late build 4X4 CC/LB auto,fully loaded with sunroof, power slider and backup sensors , White with 12" ICON lift, 6 superduty valved bilsteins, flip steering, 38" MTZs on 20x12 chrome Fuel Hostage wheels, stock gears, superlift truspeed, fumoto, high idle mod, large case high amp alternator, floating traction bars, airraid intake with elbow, 4" turbo back, studded, powerslots with hawk pads, billet grill, 55 watt HIDs 6000k heads and fogs, clear corners, 7" Eclipse AVN6620BT NAV w/ back up camera, massive JL stereo 300/4 and 500/1, 2 12s behind back seat, amp research steps, sirius, '08 diff cover, redhead steering box,, coolant filter kit, hush panels and door seal mod, quad pod with boost, EGT, water temp, and fuel pressure gauges
Why such a swing in prices then? Mine cost me 1400, and the dealer said it was a new one, my invoice didnt say reman FICM. A reman is new internals with the old shell or casing, like trannies or alternators?
I wonder what part of it breaks and what they do to fix it? So it will just break the same way again in the future? Whatever goes bad inside them.
I was told that the VIN determines the price....crock of crap. I think the stealerships charge what they think they can get away with.
My indy mech tells me that heat is the killer of FICMs, which makes sense, if you think about where it's located. Engine heat, turbo heat and coolant heat are a recipe for disaster. It's not if your FICM is going to give up the ghost, it's when. If there are circuit boards in the FICM, which I'm pretty sure there are, then it's a sure thing that the heat will crystaline the solder, fry a diode, etc.
I personally would love to find a new place to mount the damned thing, but the biggest problem I see with that is getting a harness extension. The next viable solution is to duct cold air straight to the FICM.
__________________ Fred
2004 F-350 CC DRW LB FX4 4x4
Oxford White/Arizona Beige
King Ranch
Herrin Hauler bed
4.10 Trac-Lok
Reman'd 6.0L @43,956 miles
Reman'd Turbo @54,814 miles
Even if you buy one off of Ebay or somewhere else, you still have to have a PMI (Programmable Module Installation) done at the dealer. It consists of remove your program off your old FICM and installing it on your new one. If that doesn't work then the dealer needs to load as-built data from Ford into the module, if it will take it.
A new FICM comes without a program in it.
Also, heat is not the enemy of the FICM, unstable input voltage is (bad battery, alternator, jump starting a crane etc. You get the idea)
__________________
2001 F-350 Lariat 4x4 Crew *4" BDS suspension lift w/315-75's * Ford AIS * MKO 5" exhaust * All 4 corners cleared * Front Reese Receiver * Draw Tite Fold Over Gooseneck * Reese 15K Sliding 5er * Gauges Whited Out * IC Foil Delete * Dieselsite Coolant Filter kit * DiPricol Optix White Faced Turbo,Pyro,Trans Gauges w/Dash Mount Pod * DP Tuner F5 60T 80E 120R 140X * John Wood Valve Body * ITP SS X-Over Line * ITP Boost Annihilator * 6.0 Trans Cooler * TCI Truck Master Triple Disc Billet Converter (-200 RPM) * Reviva Transmission * ESOF Converted to Manual Warn Hubs * 203' Thermostat * Turbomaster Wastegate Actuator * Gutted EBPV * Centramatics * Walbro GLS392 * Ford AICM * ITP Pre-pump * One Very Understanding Wife*
swamps diesel. the original post was from powerstroke nation. it gives a great post on diagnotics for a bad ficm. and heat is not the main killer. it is the heat flash that would pump out 48 volts for up to 2or 3 minutes that caused the boards to overheat since they were designed for short bursts not long ones. swamps also offers a upgrade to up the voltage to 58 volts which is a popular mod on the older 7.3 idms that helps with starting and idling. very good post that all should read.
__________________
2006 f250 4x4
crewcab short bed
lariat 6.0psd
auto, electric tcase
soon to have isspro
fire/air/trans/fuel
stock suspension and
pretty much everything
else
...Also, heat is not the enemy of the FICM, unstable input voltage is (bad battery, alternator, jump starting a crane etc. You get the idea)
While I agree with you about unstable input voltage, I respectfully disagree with you about heat. Heat will crystaline and crack solder....crack the solder and you get bad or no electrical connection. A good example of this is the UniVolt converter in an Airstream travel trailer (ask me how I know), and there is less heat generated by the UniVolt than there is by the turbo, degas bottle and engine of a 6.0.
The heat that comes from the area where the FICM is located will eventually be responsible for or help cause failure. No electrical component can survive that much heat for thousands or tens of thousands of miles, whether it be constant-driven or not.
I submit that the two (electrical and heat) are both culprits.
on edit: I read the Swamps article, Lubbock...good read. The one question I had was why bump up to 58v...thanks for the answer.
By the way, I never said it was the main reason, just one, as explained to me by my mech who's been doing this for a few decades.
__________________ Fred
2004 F-350 CC DRW LB FX4 4x4
Oxford White/Arizona Beige
King Ranch
Herrin Hauler bed
4.10 Trac-Lok
Reman'd 6.0L @43,956 miles
Reman'd Turbo @54,814 miles
Last edited by Strokin' 6.0; 11-01-2009 at 11:47 PM.
Email him most likely. He said he offers rebuilding but it is like a week turn around time.
__________________
2006 f250 4x4
crewcab short bed
lariat 6.0psd
auto, electric tcase
soon to have isspro
fire/air/trans/fuel
stock suspension and
pretty much everything
else
Wouldn't bumping the FICM up to 58v fry it quicker?
__________________ Fred
2004 F-350 CC DRW LB FX4 4x4
Oxford White/Arizona Beige
King Ranch
Herrin Hauler bed
4.10 Trac-Lok
Reman'd 6.0L @43,956 miles
Reman'd Turbo @54,814 miles
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