6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
I have an 05 6.0 f-250 with 72,000 miles. I have just changet the oil and the Fule filter today. this is the 2nd time I have changed the Fuel filter and found what looks like sand between the the ribs of the filter. I found it kinda odd the last time but discounted it to bad fuel. this time however I am very concerned and would like any help in identifying what this could be and if this is normal. since changing the filter (TODAY) I have noticed that the truck is not Ideling the sam way it was (kind of rough at idel and slow to accelerate). Is there a way to drain the lines and flush the system above the tank?? Should I drain the tank and clean it out? what do I do?? what is this??? I bought the truck at 40,000 miles and changed the first filter at about 55,000 so I am now on the 15,000 change schedule. thank you for any help
I have an 05 6.0 f-250 with 72,000 miles. I have just changet the oil and the Fule filter today. this is the 2nd time I have changed the Fuel filter and found what looks like sand between the the ribs of the filter. I found it kinda odd the last time but discounted it to bad fuel. this time however I am very concerned and would like any help in identifying what this could be and if this is normal. since changing the filter (TODAY) I have noticed that the truck is not Ideling the sam way it was (kind of rough at idel and slow to accelerate). Is there a way to drain the lines and flush the system above the tank?? Should I drain the tank and clean it out? what do I do?? what is this??? I bought the truck at 40,000 miles and changed the first filter at about 55,000 so I am now on the 15,000 change schedule. thank you for any help
Make sure your cap on the fuel filter is tight so it doesn't suck air. This would cause poor idling/running.
I'd cut your filter replacement intervals way down < 5,000 miles till the sand is no longer a problem.
__________________
2006 F-250 Lariat 6.0L PSD,CC,SB,FX4, Black with the Chrome Package with Chrome Door Pulls. Smoked windows, Rhinolined, 4" Stainless Turbo-back Magnaflow exhaust, Zoodad mod., DEE ZEE mud flaps, CCV rerouted, High Idle mod., High beams w/Fog Lights mod, Sylvania Silverstars in Headlamps and Fog Lamps, Intake Elbow from intakeelbows.com, SCT X Cal2 programmed by Eric from Innovative Diesel, Dieselsite Coolant filter, Quadzilla Commander Monitor with Fuel Pressure Kit, Autometer Oil Pressure gauge.
2008 Ford Edge Limited. AWD, Vista Roof aka Big Ass Moonroof, Navigation System. Black with Chrome 20" wheels. It has ALL the Options for an Edge.
My other toys:
2006 Rinker 232 Captiva Liberty Edition Bowrider. White gelcoat with Red band in the middle. Fuel Injected 320 HP Volvo Penta 350 with duoprops and captians call exhaust.
2004 Jayco 27BH travel trailer.
2005 John Deere 5303 64HP 3cyl. Turbo Diesel Utility Tractor with 512 Loader/Bale Spike. Too many implements to list.
normal to see some grit but not allot of it. seen allot of people rip orings replacing filters, one on the cap and on on the end of the pump, the plastic peice that the filter slides on to. if it ran ok before you worked on it its probly somthing you did.
__________________
Ford certified diesel tech
96 PSD reg cab 4x4 auto 4.10 LS rear xlt. 4" superlift 35" BGF Muds on 16.5 mickey thompsons, dual stabilizers, 3" glass cowl hood, custom american patriot headlinner, Beans stage I's, TS Performance 6 pos. chip, SD HPOP, BB in fuel regulator, custom intake, 3" downpipe, 4" straight pipe exhaust and 5" tip. All aluminum radiator, 6.0 trans cooler. Banks pyro, trans temp and boost gauges on the pillar. TransGo shift kit, billet converter. 10" rear drup bumper, custom droped hitch receiver billet grille, custom front bumper with fog lights and billet grille, diamond cut headlights, clear corners and markers. Viair compressor, one gal. tank and dual air horns.
90 mustang 347 race car.
05 f250 red supercab 6.0, suncoast auto trans, 4x4, long bed fx4, grey interior. atc 275cc injectors, turbonetics ceramic coated 70mm turbo, head studs, aeromotive fuel system, sct with innovative tunes, dual 5" stacks.
The sand was had the tint of the one on the left. the fule that remained in the cap after my Diesel shower just had the normal blueish tint. I could not determin anything farther by looking at it. Thanks for the help so far.
Thanks, This could be the problem with the rough running as I just now (tonight) bought the correct size socket to tighten up the filter. I had been using a Crescent wrench and with such little room to work was unable to get it all the way tight. I would say there is about an 1/8 inch gap left that i could not get with the crescent wrench. I will tighten it up in the AM and re post if that fixes it. Thanks again.
The sand was had the tint of the one on the left. the fule that remained in the cap after my Diesel shower just had the normal blueish tint. I could not determin anything farther by looking at it. Thanks for the help so far.
Scott,
For "next time". Before you change the filters, go get an IH replacement drain plug. $16 at the local Ford dealer. Diesel Technician Society
When you do your next filter change, run the truck down to 1/8 of a tank (if it's not that low, it may siphon on you), remove the filler cap, & put the front of the truck nose down (if you're in the garage, you can put the rear wheels on a 2x8). This will have the HFCM / frame pointed so the low point is the drain plug. Remove the old drain plug, and let it drain until you get no more fuel out. It should be somewhere between a pint & a quart. Drain it into a clear jar or bottle so you can examine the fuel for debris or water.
When it's stopped leaking, shove a couple of paper towels between the cap & the frame rail. Using the 36mm socket you now have, remove the cap (lots of short strokes, and the filter will be attached to the cap & come out with it). You should be able to get the cap & filter out with just a few drops of dielse on your fingers.
After replacing & oiling the o-ring on the cap, insert the new filter into the cap & replace into the HFCM. Thread the cap on by hand, making sure not to cross thread, & lots of short strokes later, make sure that the cap seats fully.
Replace the old plug with your new IH plug, and snug it down finger tight. Its an o-ring seal, and you don't need to reef on it to get it to seal.
DONE with none of that diesel perfume on your clothing.
BTW, I use filters from the local IH dealer for both fuel & oil.
OMC
__________________
Feb 03 6.0 Silver F-250 SD SC XLT long box, 6-spd 3.73ls, Fx4, Stock, Spray-in liner, Contico box.HARPOONED.
The sand was had the tint of the one on the left. the fule that remained in the cap after my Diesel shower just had the normal blueish tint. I could not determin anything farther by looking at it. Thanks for the help so far.
The crap in the left side of the pic came from, I suspect, the bottom of the tank from a now-defunct biodiesel supplier here in town. I can't prove it since in this one particular instance, I didn't drain the aux fuel tank filter until one or two other fuelings. But I know that the bio dealer was at the bottom of the tank. This is why I now have four fuel filters on my PSD.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
