6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
To all of your powerstrokers who may be interested, I've found a way to repair those pesky head gaskets on your 6.0 without removing the cab. I've competed this task on my own and have pictures to prove it for any of you who might be interested in attempting this feat on in your own garage. I usually don't post on to blogs but after countless hours of reading that the only way to fix blown head gaskets due to the EGR system or what have you, I decided that I wanted to try my odds without removing the cab. It's a relatively involved process but can be done and as I said, if I get any interested people, I will post pictures and step by step instructions on how to do so. Happy Powerstroking!!!
I'd be interested. I'm looking to put in some head studs. I have the money and the leave to do the studs, but not to have someone else pull the cab and do it. I'd like to see the pictures and know what exactly is involved with the install.
Wow, well I certainly wasn't expecting so many responses so fast but just to get everyone started, here are the links to pictures of just the block without the heads or valve train.
Disregard the blue masking tap, that was put on the deck as you can clearly see to avoid the pistons and water jacket being exposed to the excessive amount off grease and dirt below the turbo mount from miscellaneous oil spills from oil changes and just miles on the truck.
As for the head removal, it doesn't get complicated until you get all the way down to the head itself. I had no major issues with the exception of the fan because it's a normal style thread as opposed to a reverse thread which I assumed at first that it was. Radiator, alternator, intake and turbo removal are all relatively straight forward. The fan takes some strength to get off but the complication doesn't come in until the removal of the heads themselves. The passengers side head is the worst because the air conditioning cover blocks the 3 lower side head bolts in the rear. Since that cover causes an obstruction, it must be removed. Once removed, the head bolts come out enough to get the head shimmied up and out. There is also a high pressure oil line that runs from the top of the head down into the block. It's connected to the high pressure oil valley which sits atop the valve train, ultimately controlling the pressure in the injectors. So, that line will need to be plucked out and can be done so by the use of a screw driver or anything of that nature. It's held in place simply by an o-ring so you'll have to put a slight bit of force on it to get it out. The drivers side head is similar in nature except that there's only 1 bolt left in place which is the lower rear bolt closest to the firewall. The head will need to be tilted up toward the turbo about 45 degrees as to remove that last bolt and Bam, you're done with the removal stage. I'll repost later on the reconstruction stage.
Ermmm, we regularly replace head gaskets without removing the cab.... Did you install studs?
Hi Jim, thanks for your input. If you have any pointers, they would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure other people have done this job without the removal of the cab, my goal however is to simply educate others on how because I've not come across a forum yet that explains in any detail on how to do it. And yes, I was able to get my studs in as well without removing the cab. I'll post pictures on that later as well. Thanks, Bill
This shouldn't be a big secret, youre just following the work shop manual. Nowhere in the workshop manual does it say remove the cab to pull heads on a 6.0L. Techs only pull the cabs on 6.0's to make it easier on our bodies.
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I'm a mod friendly Ford Diesel Technician located in Sacramento California area.
This shouldn't be a big secret, youre just following the work shop manual. Nowhere in the workshop manual does it say remove the cab to pull heads on a 6.0L. Techs only pull the cabs on 6.0's to make it easier on our bodies.
Hi Gofaster, actually, you're wrong, I haven't followed any shop manual. I was going to purchase one from Ford but it was 135 dollars and 2 volumes thick which isn't really relevant but at any rate, the price was a little bigger than my wallet, especially since the gaskets are 475 and the studs are 409 so I followed no shop manual. Had I have known that it was "no big secret" I wouldn't have posted anything to the forums. Seems as though enough people are as misled as I was. Thank for your input.
Did you remove any body parts..front end/grill etc.? If not, you must be really tall/strong & loooong arms. Tks. for pics/info.
Hi OT,
Thanks a bunch for your input and question. I removed no body panels or anything. The only thing I had to remove was the dryer cover on the A/C box which is on the passengers side because the 3 lower head bolts are problematic in getting out so in order to get the bolts out far enough, that dryer cover has to be taken off. There's just enough room after removing that cover to get the bolts out the remainder of the way and yeah, those heads a pretty heavy as well but the rocker arm valley is aluminum so that helps a little. I guess they remind me of any big block chevy head but one of the nice things is that since I removed the fan and radiator, there's enough room to stand right on the ground inside the cab. I'll post some more pictures later tonight of the other things I removed, IE, the dryer cover. Thanks, Bill
I wish someone would write a how to guide with pics i would gladly use it as would many other folks.
That would be a great idea.
Thanks for posting Folding Time. My studs were and gaskets were installed this way as well. Some folks know about this, some dont. If you took enough pictures you might be able to make a write-up and see if the moderators will sticky it so it wont be lost in the archives.
__________________ 2004 F250 CC FX4 / 46g Transfer Flow / ARP Studs / Coolant Filter / CCV (SOLD DUE TO DIVORCE )
Hi Gofaster, actually, you're wrong, I haven't followed any shop manual. I was going to purchase one from Ford but it was 135 dollars and 2 volumes thick which isn't really relevant but at any rate, the price was a little bigger than my wallet, especially since the gaskets are 475 and the studs are 409 so I followed no shop manual. Had I have known that it was "no big secret" I wouldn't have posted anything to the forums. Seems as though enough people are as misled as I was. Thank for your input.
Actually, youre wrong. I do this for a living.
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I'm a mod friendly Ford Diesel Technician located in Sacramento California area.
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Tks. for pics/info.
i would gladly use it as would many other folks.
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