Head Gasket Replacement 6.0 PSD

[banditboy]

Also ALLDATAdiy.com :: Leading Source of Diagnostic and Repair Information is helpfull when removing and installing heads, all of the torque specs and everything you need.

[bamaisnumber1]

Originally Posted by imsolidstate

If you are holding flatness up to .0005, what specifically are you using to measure your accuracy and are you indicating that you are doing an entire sweep of the surface which would again lead me to the question of what type of inspection equipment are you working with? I would really like to know what type of mill you are running that can handle a cast of that size with this type of thickness and hold the appropriate flatness measurement. Tooling does have a lot to do with the machines ability to hold flatness, but I have to say its hard to believe that you would be able to repeatabily hold at or less then .002 flatness across the entire surface on a large casting such as this which is not a continuous surface. There are few pieces of equipment out there with the rigidity and accuracy to make this happen. As stated above, this is where the orings and gaskets come into play. Plus, if you are going to spend the money to achieve this level of accuracy you should probably deck the block or it would seem to me that you would be wasting your time.

We use a CMM, And an interrapid .0001 test indicator (we check 2 different ways) on a granite surface plate. I dont work much with cast iron anymore mostly eli titanium and 17-4 stainless wich makes cast iron look like butter and warps twice as bad as cast ironwhen you cut it. we use only mazak machine tools as far as cnc machines, only have a few manual machines left. We went from tool and die to medical so we dont need many manual machines anymore but I can hold that kind of toleranceon a old k&t 50 taper all day. I just have to use the ends of the table where there is little wear on the ways.

[Strokin' 6.0]

Hey, folding time, glad to see that Grumpy Jim and gofasterjanet didn't drive you away....us know-nothings do get valuable input from folks like you who have been there, done that and are willing to share.

BTW, for the record, you were mis-quoted...you never said you found a NEW way to remove the heads. I agree with you that the service manuals are expensive, which is why I come here for advice, not arrogance. I can fix pretty much every part on a UH-1H Iroquois "Huey" helicopter with my eyes closed, but I sure as hell wouldn't make fun of someone, if they proudly found a way to repair it without the manuals (there are nearly a dozen 4-inch thick manuals for the Huey, BTW). If anything, it means they were smart enough to not need the manual.

Good on you for buying a CTD...you made the right choice, added to the fact that you'll have an easier time working on it. I wish I still had my '05 2500HD. The 48RE may not be as stout as the Allison 1000, but if you add a Mag-Hytec Double Deep pan to it and a temp gauge, you should never have a problem. I never got mine over 175*, towing our 31' Airstream up the Rockies.

If you ever get the itch to document the 6.0 head removal with pics, it'd be greatly appreciated by this soldier.

Thanks.

[pre1004]

Hello I am interested in any pics you may have pertaining to this?? ptruckinc@aol.com

Originally Posted by folding time

Hello Everyone,

To all of your powerstrokers who may be interested, I've found a way to repair those pesky head gaskets on your 6.0 without removing the cab. I've competed this task on my own and have pictures to prove it for any of you who might be interested in attempting this feat on in your own garage. I usually don't post on to blogs but after countless hours of reading that the only way to fix blown head gaskets due to the EGR system or what have you, I decided that I wanted to try my odds without removing the cab. It's a relatively involved process but can be done and as I said, if I get any interested people, I will post pictures and step by step instructions on how to do so. Happy Powerstroking!!!

[robspowerstroke]

HI. can you send me picks of this procedure. my email address is romat665@gmail.com

[Harvey46]

Hello
I would like to see the pictures of this process. My email address is knottyw@hotmail.com
thanks

Originally Posted by folding time

Hello Everyone,

To all of your powerstrokers who may be interested, I've found a way to repair those pesky head gaskets on your 6.0 without removing the cab. I've competed this task on my own and have pictures to prove it for any of you who might be interested in attempting this feat on in your own garage. I usually don't post on to blogs but after countless hours of reading that the only way to fix blown head gaskets due to the EGR system or what have you, I decided that I wanted to try my odds without removing the cab. It's a relatively involved process but can be done and as I said, if I get any interested people, I will post pictures and step by step instructions on how to do so. Happy Powerstroking!!!

[nightmare.inc]

I am very interested in your pics if you are still active in this forum. I just blew my head gaskets last night

[nightmare.inc]

Sorry, my email is gathofbal13@yahoo.com. Thank you.

[Portagie1968]

Originally Posted by folding time

Hey Smiley, I love the Dodge. I'm still a fan of the Ford Body, especially the space of the back seat. I absolutely despise the rear seat of the Dodges and the Mega Cab looks silly to me. It's either way too big "The Mega Cab" or way too small "The Quad Cab". The Fords I think have the best all around body that one could ask for but I adore the reliability and fuel mileage of that Cummins man!! I went down to Tennessee from Delaware here last week and got 24.7 MPG on cruise at 64 MPH. That was something I haven't seen since my Mustang back in 06. The 5.9 Cummins is a little noisy and obnoxious but part of that is due to my 4" MBRP exhaust. I guess you can't have it all, you just do the best you can with what's out there and my Cummins is virtually problem free and has a wonderful track record for reliability so I'll stick with it for a while. The 48RE auto trans. in those things though is the supposed weak link, either way, there will be no tune or programmer going on this truck and as a constant reminder, I still have the 6.0 head bolts right in the bed box of my truck as to NEVER EVER tune a truck again without upgrading other areas first.

I have to agree with you on the cabs and body. Ford doe have the best. Here is my email: Portagie68@clearwire.net. Please contact me folding time.

[te805]

Folding time, please send any info on this to te805@yahoo.com
I cannot prove it but I am convinced that after my heads were replaced (due to cracks discovered during the head gasket job) fuel began mixing with the coolant. Easy answer is cracked injector cups, hard answer I'm told is bad heads. I just got the truck back together but have to get the batteries trickle charged back up.
I'm all labored out, I literally cannot pay another mechanic to do work on it. So if this doesn't fix it, I'll be the guy to pull the heads next.
By the way, the shop said, and charged, 27 hours of labor to do the head gasket job. I didn't see the Ford book that said this, but they said the Ford book drove the time and cab off requirement.

Thanks in advance.

[OldDetroitGuy]

I do a lot of 6.0 head gasket and stud jobs, the first one I did with the cab on, and I will never do another one like that. I don't feel like I "know" it's perfect, (dirt, no scrapes on gasket, etc) it's hard on a guy to work in a hole like that, and it takes longer to do the job.

Now you guys doing it at home without a car lift will have to do it like that. It can be done!

It takes me 7 hrs to do one with that cab off, start to finish. 1.25 hrs to remove the cab. 1 hrs to strip the engine. heads then go to the machine shop for 1.5 hrs while I prep the block, install oil cooler and eat lunch. Then it takes me 2.25 hrs to re-assemble the engine, 1.5 to re-install the cab and fill with fluids. I generally don't have to bleed the brakes except for leaving the lines looose on the abs block and pumping a few times. Many trucks come in after 8am and leave by 4:30 PM in my 1 man shop! Some of you other guys that do it for a living, lets hear your story!

I put all parts prior to the cab coming off in front of the truck, and then I use a pallet sitting on the frame for all engine parts except heads, (fan and shroud go in front of the truck too). Turbo and intake go at the back of the pallet, and oil cooler goes into the parts cleaner, leaving the front half of the pallet for valve train and injectors, whitch get laid out on their respective sides, rear parts to the center. The 2" spaces between the boards work great for cradling the rockers. All bolts get thrown into a cardboard box sitting on the front driveshaft, except head bolts get chucked to the scrap bin. I never completely remove the bolts from the intake, leave 'em in and steam clean it.

Maybe this will help speed the job for some of ya!

[Diesel Dad55]

Originally Posted by OldDetroitGuy

I do a lot of 6.0 head gasket and stud jobs, the first one I did with the cab on, and I will never do another one like that. I don't feel like I "know" it's perfect, (dirt, no scrapes on gasket, etc) it's hard on a guy to work in a hole like that, and it takes longer to do the job.

Now you guys doing it at home without a car lift will have to do it like that. It can be done!

It takes me 7 hrs to do one with that cab off, start to finish. 1.25 hrs to remove the cab. 1 hrs to strip the engine. heads then go to the machine shop for 1.5 hrs while I prep the block, install oil cooler and eat lunch. Then it takes me 2.25 hrs to re-assemble the engine, 1.5 to re-install the cab and fill with fluids. I generally don't have to bleed the brakes except for leaving the lines looose on the abs block and pumping a few times. Many trucks come in after 8am and leave by 4:30 PM in my 1 man shop! Some of you other guys that do it for a living, lets hear your story!

I put all parts prior to the cab coming off in front of the truck, and then I use a pallet sitting on the frame for all engine parts except heads, (fan and shroud go in front of the truck too). Turbo and intake go at the back of the pallet, and oil cooler goes into the parts cleaner, leaving the front half of the pallet for valve train and injectors, whitch get laid out on their respective sides, rear parts to the center. The 2" spaces between the boards work great for cradling the rockers. All bolts get thrown into a cardboard box sitting on the front driveshaft, except head bolts get chucked to the scrap bin. I never completely remove the bolts from the intake, leave 'em in and steam clean it.

Maybe this will help speed the job for some of ya!

Man, I wish you lived in the Sacramento Ca. area. I want this done on my 2004 and have a Ford tech hear that wants 4 days and $1600 and I buy all the parts, (another $2100).

[OldDetroitGuy]

Originally Posted by Diesel Dad55

Man, I wish you lived in the Sacramento Ca. area. I want this done on my 2004 and have a Ford tech hear that wants 4 days and $1600 and I buy all the parts, (another $2100).

That sound high for parts, I don't know what you are getting, but parts should be between 1100 and 1600 from sinister. Use the blue oem, or black diamond oem equivalent head-gasket, NOT the black onyx.

I usually figure 1200 for labor, I know that's a lot for one day, but it's worth a lot to be fast! but I usually do a flat 3100 for every head gasket job. That includes gaskets, studs, egr, oil cooler, and oil rail o-rings, plus oil and filter change, p/s flush, freon, and antifreeze.

ALWAYS do the oil rail o-rings, or you will be back with no hot start problems. It takes a special hollow allen tool to remove the inserts from the oil rail, and then it's just a simple o-ring. 5 years ago I never did this, and never had trouble, but these trucks are getting old enough that the o-rings in the rail are hard and non-elastic anymore, and if you swivel the little injector feed "dicks" around, 1 out of three truck will be back...

[jbtravlin]

Hey Guys,

I'm fairly new to the 6.OH NO(as they call it) and diesels in general as this is my first one to own. I have worked on many 7.3s 6.0s and 5.9s.

I have personally removed both 6.0 heads, installed Black Onyx Head Gaskets/ ARP Head Studs and Without Removing the The Cab or The Heater Box... It is involved but doing anything to these engines is INVOLVED(my opinion).

OK... Here's how I've done it and will do it in the future...

Things you will need:
-BLANKET(to lay on, VERY IMPORTANT. LOL)
-Adjustable Engine Hoist
-1/2" Impact/ Breaker bar/ Long Ratchet if available(with cheater bar)
-MIG WELDER!!! Yes I said MIG Welder
-(2) 1/2" Impact sockets- 6 point is best for strength(Two Sockets Required, both 1/2"... Impact are best for strength)...
-Heavy Duty Rubber Bands(Any Color will work)
-Honing Block
-Other assorted tools to do the job

THE HOW TO:
YOUR SOCKET MOD-
- See what size main socket you will need(Sorry, I cant remember if its long or short and exact size)
-Take one socket and cut it in half, keeping the 1/2" drive hole to use
-Take both sockets and weld them together(GOOD!!!) so that you can use the modified socket as a stand off to break the main socket and bolt loose.
Driver Side- Easy to RnR, should have no problems...
Pass. Side-
-Tear down to bare head
-Remove "ALL" head bolts that will come out
-Use modified socket(s) and break the few hard to get to bolts loose
-Remove the ones that will come out
-Take your rubber bands and tie up the rest so they are not down in the block
-Carefully remove the head
-Clean both heads and deck(GOOD!!!)
-Hone both heads and deck(GOOD!!!) using tracer paint on both to verify they are flat and true
-Clean deck and Install head gasket
----NOW... The tricky part(TWO bodies needed here. One to man the hoist and One to guide the head into place)----
-Remembering which "Head Bolts" cam out with the head. Install the "Head Studs" into the head. Take your rubber bands and bind them up inside the head.
-CAREFULLY install the head not scaring the deck with the bottom of your "Head Studs".
-Install the remaining studs and torque to spec using recommended torque pattern
Ok...IF YOUVE MAD IT TO THIS POINT WITH NO BROKEN PARTS BUSTED KNUCKLES AND ALL YUR HAIR. YOU ARE A MECHANIC!!! LMAO

If this helps anyone at all, I've done my part.. Hope it helps...

[bismic]

As many have already said - it is not wise to use Black Onyx head geaskets. Stay with the OEM head gaskets.