HELP! Burning oil out of tailpipe - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 05-21-2012, 07:07 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I am going to yank the turbo and ispect the up-pipes and down pipe, but I think I am going to order an Autoenginuity and check the injecors first before I take it apart.

Also a great recommendation from Bismic. I am going to send out an oil sample for analyzation from Blackstone Labs and see if it is contaminated.

The warranty policy on this turbo is not so easy; it seems some many hoops must be jumped through in order to comply with Garrett's warranty policy.

I thank everyone for your help.
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Old 05-22-2012, 12:35 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Cetane Man View Post
I replaced the exhaust from the turbo back with no kitty, the up pipes were dry, sooty but dry as I had them completely out to wrap them with DEI thermal wrap and to inspect it for cracks and such. I would hate to give it a couple of more days if I'm not doing good by driving it.
Typically, a new exhaust system has some oil film (not motor oil but some type of oil) in it but that should burn off pretty quickly. So if the exhaust system was replaced at the same time or after the turbo replacement, that should not be the problem.


An Auto Enginuity is an invaluable tool for working on these and would definitely be a wise investment. Mine has saved me well more than I spent to get it.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:00 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Typically, a new exhaust system has some oil film (not motor oil but some type of oil) in it but that should burn off pretty quickly. So if the exhaust system was replaced at the same time or after the turbo replacement, that should not be the problem. .
Wow, that is so funny; I had to think about that for a minute. I did clean up the inside of the pipes as good as I could because of the shmegma they put in there. The tailpipe could be cleaned out as good though.

Quote:
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An Auto Enginuity is an invaluable tool for working on these and would definitely be a wise investment. Mine has saved me well more than I spent to get it.
I can't wait to use it now, and see if there are any other issues. Working without a scanner of any type is difficult. I will be receiving it next week. I am also waiting on Blackstone Labs for the sample bottles. Tomorrow I will take a mirror and see if I can see oil on the bottom of the down pipe clamp. I can't wait to be done with this thing and enjoy my turbo and exhaust.
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:52 AM   #19 (permalink)
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This morning I try to look at the bottom of the down pipe with a mirror; nothing. I then decide to swipe my finger on the bottom of the clamp and low and behold it is oil. There it is, a DEFECTIVE GARRETT POWERMAX TURBO;
Leaking oil.

Now for the oil sample I need to send out to see a cause for effect...
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:45 PM   #20 (permalink)
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You might want to check the air to air cooler by pressure testing it. If it's not holding pressure due to a crack or boots having a hole in them. The turbo needs back pressure to keep the seals seated. I ran across this on a series 60 Detroit engine. Do you have a boost gauge on the turbo? If you got an air intake side leak you will not build boost. Just a suggestion, I got about 30 years exp. on eighteen wheelers. I also own a F350, 2002, 7.3, 4x4, crew cab, dually and love it.
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:26 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Keep us informed please!
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Old 05-24-2012, 08:29 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paw John View Post
You might want to check the air to air cooler by pressure testing it. If it's not holding pressure due to a crack or boots having a hole in them. The turbo needs back pressure to keep the seals seated. I ran across this on a series 60 Detroit engine. Do you have a boost gauge on the turbo? If you got an air intake side leak you will not build boost. Just a suggestion, I got about 30 years exp. on eighteen wheelers. I also own a F350, 2002, 7.3, 4x4, crew cab, dually and love it.
Paw,
I replaced all those pretty blue expensive boots just less than a year ago when I did the ELC coolant change over; they also looked good and I torqued all the CAC clamps to 9 ft. lbs. The boost gauge I have is the stock one and functioned as normal as it ever was. The truck was driven and it did not seem to lack power; however I would imagine I might still have have air in the oil system. I customer at my job told me a guy he knew went through 2 turbos on his construction equipment and found out it was lack of oil pressure getting to the turbo.
If that was the case with our trucks, I don't think it would run that great, or run at all.

How would you go about pressure testing the system anyhow. The intercooler is a critical part of this system which you hadn't mentioned, but If it had cracked it would be noisey right?

The Auto Enginuity comes in Tuesday and I will check the injectors, HPOP pressure, IPR, I replaced the IPR valve and upgraded the wiring, oh yeah replaced the EBP sensor because it is recommended with turbo.

The company I bought the turbo from wants me to remove the turbo and ship it back (45 lb. box) that way they can inspect it and determine if its a defective unit or not. Pretty cut and dry so far, but I will remove it after the AE test and I will take pictures and post them as well as send them to the company.

Now for my brand new muffler which probably has fiberglass packing inside it covered with oil and the driveway that has oil on it now too.

I am also waiting on the Blackstone Labortories sample kit that way I can bottle my oil sample and make sure nothing else is wrong. The truck only has 55,000 miles and I change the oil every 3000 - 4000 miles with Castrol Hypuron 15W40 and before that the Motorcraft stuff. I am anal with maintenance on this thing, I know it is not a lack of maintenance too.

I will keep everyone posted.
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Old 05-24-2012, 10:46 PM   #23 (permalink)
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This may seem a little weird, but a few years ago I had a problem with a great deal of white bluish smoke coming out the tail pipe... First, is the truck a automatic transmission? Have you check the transmission fluid? Follow along with me it will make some sense .... on the side of most auto tranies is a vacuum valve that basically tells the trany to shift, inside this valve is a diaphram. If the diaprham gets a hole in it, trany fluid is sucked up, back into the engine, this then burns in the engine and puts out bluish smoke! The little vacuum valve is usually around $30 - $50 and is easily fixed there is usually a retaining bolt that when removed allows the valve to be slid out. remove the vac line and replace on the new one, slid it in put the bolt back and your done. At the time I had several mechanics quote me thousands to fix my "blown" engine, it was a guy at a stop light who suggested I check this, it fixed it. I hope I'm paying it forward.
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Old 05-24-2012, 10:59 PM   #24 (permalink)
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No vacuum on our transmissions. All electric.
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:37 AM   #25 (permalink)
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You pressure test the cooler core by using the boots that go on the coller. You need to make up a plastic pipe and put a plug on one end. Then drill a hole in it and hook up a ball valve and gauge for one side and on the other side you use a cup plug to plug the core up. Hook up an air line to it and only let in about 15 to 18 lbs. of pressure. You will need a bottle of soapy sulation to spray on the core. For's for hearing a leak while the engine is running is almost impossible,and you want build up boost until high RPM's. I would try this before you pull the turbo off. Please do not over pressureize the cooler core if it's not leaking you will blow it. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:19 AM   #26 (permalink)
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For informational purposes, the oil comming out of the turbo probably wil smell like oil spilled on a hot manifold. If it goes through the compustion chamber it will have a sulpher smell to it. What the smoke smells like will tell you where to start looking. If it is going past injector seals, it will show in the fuel filter, and have the sulpher smell if there is enough oil in the fuel.
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Old 05-27-2012, 02:54 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paw John View Post
You pressure test the cooler core by using the boots that go on the coller. You need to make up a plastic pipe and put a plug on one end. Then drill a hole in it and hook up a ball valve and gauge for one side and on the other side you use a cup plug to plug the core up. Hook up an air line to it and only let in about 15 to 18 lbs. of pressure. You will need a bottle of soapy sulation to spray on the core. For's for hearing a leak while the engine is running is almost impossible,and you want build up boost until high RPM's. I would try this before you pull the turbo off. Please do not over pressureize the cooler core if it's not leaking you will blow it. Hope this helps.
Thanks Paw for the info.
I took the truck around the block yesterday afternoon and verified I had boost at a low RPM range (stock gauge). I almost started building a cool tool. I picked up an air pressure regulator with a filter from work, but I will return it.

Thanks
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Old 05-27-2012, 03:00 PM   #28 (permalink)
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For informational purposes, the oil comming out of the turbo probably wil smell like oil spilled on a hot manifold.
Had I said that in the begining, I would not have had to explain my-self furthure. That is exactly what I meant about the oil smell.

Quote:
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If it goes through the compustion chamber it will have a sulpher smell to it. What the smoke smells like will tell you where to start looking. If it is going past injector seals, it will show in the fuel filter, and have the sulpher smell if there is enough oil in the fuel.
I pulled the fuel cap off and no o-ring pieces inside and the fuel is clean too. It does not smell like sulfur, just oil.
All in all I hope it is just a defective turbo for the sake of my wallet.

Thanks guys.

By the way,
Still waiting on my AE and I will post then.
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:55 PM   #29 (permalink)
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OK,
Got the Auto Enginuity and I love it. It reminds me of the WDS tool.

Cylinder buzz test passed
Cylinder Contribution test passed
Oil pressure passed
FICM voltage passed

All in all good to go. I took an oil sample yesterday and shipped it out this morning. Tonight I pulled the turbo off the truck and.................
The up-pipes are dry (Thank God) Down pipe had oil in it, The oil even leaked out from the center section clamp, don't even want to re-check torque on that. I am sending out the turbo to the company I bought it from so they can send it to Garrett for inspection.

I can't believe it a DEFECTIVE GARRETT POWERMAX STAGE 1 TURBO.

I will include some pics too.
Attached Thumbnails
HELP! Burning oil out of tailpipe-100_1748.jpg   HELP! Burning oil out of tailpipe-100_1770.jpg   HELP! Burning oil out of tailpipe-100_1775.jpg   HELP! Burning oil out of tailpipe-100_1766.jpg   HELP! Burning oil out of tailpipe-100_1756.jpg  

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Old 05-31-2012, 12:01 AM   #30 (permalink)
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A couple more pictures worth seeing.

Man what a pain in the @ss to go through this warranty crap. I better not get a hard time.

I am now concerned with the brand new muffler that probably is packed with fiberglass being contaminated.

What do you guys think?
Attached Thumbnails
HELP! Burning oil out of tailpipe-100_1731.jpg   HELP! Burning oil out of tailpipe-100_1746.jpg   HELP! Burning oil out of tailpipe-100_1755.jpg   HELP! Burning oil out of tailpipe-100_1760.jpg  
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