6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
I have a 2004 6.0 that I put an EGR cooler in a couple weeks ago. First i was chasing a exhaust leak at the EGR cooler, I took it back apart and put new clamps at all 3 connections. The good news is the EGR cooler leak is fixed. The bad news is I have a major leak where the exhaust enters the turbo. I have taken this turbo off 4 times now and cannot get that joint to seal. I now have the turbo and the mounting bracket unbolted and it still will not seal. I am testing this with a smoke machine and at 3 lbs it leaks bad. What am I doing wrong and how do I fix it??
Thanks
Eric
If you've tightened the clamp down without having the turbo inlet pipe properly seated, you may have damaged the mating surfaces. Have a look there. I always lubricate the mating surfaces prior to reassembly to help them mate up a bit easier.
If you've tightened the clamp down without having the turbo inlet pipe properly seated, you may have damaged the mating surfaces. Have a look there. I always lubricate the mating surfaces prior to reassembly to help them mate up a bit easier.
The mating surfaces look good. I am getting very good at changing this, so I will put some lube on it and try again.
Thanks
Eric
Well I tried lube and it still leaks. I found this tsb... Exhaust Leak/Hiss Noise:
Some trucks may exhibit an exhaust leak at the driver side turbo inlet Y pipe. This usually occurs at the flex bellows portion of the pipe, and may be due to misalignent of the pipes. Replace the inlet Y pipe, following the new service procedure (also found in droan noise above). Broadcast Message 1419.
Failed factory Y pipes should be returned to International for inspection. Failed replacement Y pipes, or replacement pipes that will not line up properly should be returned to Ford's North American Diesel Team (contact HOTLINE for details) for inspection.
I think this fits my problem to a T. Now I have to convince the customer.
I had the same problem when I went to do the EGR, THe inlet has a lip on it and slide inside the turbo, if it won't go all the way in it will leak badly you can feel it with your hand, If you keep tightening the clamp it doesn't help and will snap, don't ask how I know. So just make sure the mating surfaces are tight then slide on the clamp and I held mine inpostion as well with one hand and tightened the clamp. Fixed that problem, but now the flexpart on the y pipes are broken and leaking..hope this helps
you do not need lube or sealer. loosen just one bottom bolt on the manifold to up pipe on the drivers side manifold,(use wd40 first) this will allow you to move the y-pipe up, down or what ever it takes to coupler them up, the turbo position is set so don't remove it any more..
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99.5 Green F250 Crew Cab short bed. Solid Chrome front bumper, chrome hooks, Chrome flame grill, 2005 Headlights and Emblems, K&N cone air filter, wicked wheel, 5" exhaust 6 1/2 tailpipe,Edge Evolution programmer, Pioneer in dash touch screen dvd player, Directed 200 amp to 4 pioneer 4ways Directed 600 amp to 3 10" JL audio subs, 6" superlift all riding on 4 Chrome 10x20 Helo Maxx 8S and toyo open country A/T 37/13.5/20 looks and runs like new.
you do not need lube or sealer. loosen just one bottom bolt on the manifold to up pipe on the drivers side manifold,(use wd40 first) this will allow you to move the y-pipe up, down or what ever it takes to coupler them up, the turbo position is set so don't remove it any more..
With an attitude like that the answer is no. See anybody else responding. The trick works. it is you. Next
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99.5 Green F250 Crew Cab short bed. Solid Chrome front bumper, chrome hooks, Chrome flame grill, 2005 Headlights and Emblems, K&N cone air filter, wicked wheel, 5" exhaust 6 1/2 tailpipe,Edge Evolution programmer, Pioneer in dash touch screen dvd player, Directed 200 amp to 4 pioneer 4ways Directed 600 amp to 3 10" JL audio subs, 6" superlift all riding on 4 Chrome 10x20 Helo Maxx 8S and toyo open country A/T 37/13.5/20 looks and runs like new.
With an attitude like that the answer is no. See anybody else responding. The trick works. it is you. Next
Never mind loosen the pipe, I unbolted it all together and it still does not seal the leak. If you would like to try this for 7 or 8 try's we will see if your attitude is better than mine. Ford writes these TSB's for a reason, and it is not because they have extra money to spend. I am going with the new pipe.
You'll normally see soot on the FICM or the firewall insulation when that pipe leaks. I was under the impression that you had narrowed it down to the turbo to inlet pipe connection.
The definition of crazy is doing the same thing over and over expecting to get a different result. 7-8 times. How can we help if you tell us it leaks at the joint then the joint needs lined up. I never did this more than once and I do not install the clamp until it is butted up. If you bent it up that bad removing it then good luck trying to install a new one on straight. If you didn't bend it up then you seperated them and tightened the left and right up before you made sure it was lined up. You can not join and tighten the two until it lines up on the turbo. loosen the two bolts which allows it to pivot more.
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99.5 Green F250 Crew Cab short bed. Solid Chrome front bumper, chrome hooks, Chrome flame grill, 2005 Headlights and Emblems, K&N cone air filter, wicked wheel, 5" exhaust 6 1/2 tailpipe,Edge Evolution programmer, Pioneer in dash touch screen dvd player, Directed 200 amp to 4 pioneer 4ways Directed 600 amp to 3 10" JL audio subs, 6" superlift all riding on 4 Chrome 10x20 Helo Maxx 8S and toyo open country A/T 37/13.5/20 looks and runs like new.
The definition of crazy is doing the same thing over and over expecting to get a different result. 7-8 times. How can we help if you tell us it leaks at the joint then the joint needs lined up. I never did this more than once and I do not install the clamp until it is butted up. If you bent it up that bad removing it then good luck trying to install a new one on straight. If you didn't bend it up then you seperated them and tightened the left and right up before you made sure it was lined up. You can not join and tighten the two until it lines up on the turbo. loosen the two bolts which allows it to pivot more.
I guess that being an ASE certified master technician with L1 does not make me as good of a tech as you, however I can not see anyway that I could have bent this pipe. The new pipe is on and the truck is fixed. Like I said earlier, Ford does not write the TSB's because they have extra money to spend. I would like to thank everyone that tried to help with this headache. Now I am on to my next headache, a 2004 Ram 2500 Diesel that will only run for 2 minutes then quits.
I guess that being an ASE certified master technician with L1 does not make me as good of a tech as you, however I can not see anyway that I could have bent this pipe. The new pipe is on and the truck is fixed. Like I said earlier, Ford does not write the TSB's because they have extra money to spend. I would like to thank everyone that tried to help with this headache. Now I am on to my next headache, a 2004 Ram 2500 Diesel that will only run for 2 minutes then quits.
Thats a nice pissing match you two had there, I think I'd chose to ignore him. I actually joined this board just to respond to this item.
As for the problem you describe, its far more common then people realize. When you do searches on 6.0 litre diesels that have cold no/low power situations, extreme lag on hot weather (+100F), among other symptoms you are often dealing with an exhaust leak between the block and the turbo.
The turbo to Y-Pipe flange is so often over looked its sad. You can get a new pipe from Ford, but believe me when I say that doesn't preclude you from having the same problem. In about an hours time you can re-dress the flange with a square file. Using contact film you can slowly work a great interference fit that will not leak at 40+ psig.
I'd like to know what you people know about leaks at the exhaust manifold, I know that navistar sells a gasket (originally it did not use a gasket). I don't see anything at low pressure, but the soot marks are there and they don't look like they are "accumulations" like the TSB says, they look like they formed from high velocity exhaust gases leaving them.
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