6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
My wife and I are both out of work and we just moved back to texas from alabama. I am collecting unemployment from Alabama, but it is $150 less than what Texas unempolyment pays ($255/ week). The F250 is the only vehicle we have. Here is the problem.
My 2005 F-250 6.0l will not start when it is cold. We have to plug in the block heat in order for it to start and then sometimes it will not start. One the truck is warm up, it will start with no problems. My thinking is that all the glow plugs did not go out all at once, but the controller.
I live in the DFW area and I really need a someone to come over to help me with it. I have very money until I get a job. If I had a job interview to go to I do not know if I will be able to get there or not.
Are you out of warranty?
It could be an issue with a couple of injectors or the FICM.
Most of the potential issues would be covered by the 5 yr / 100k warranty. If it is part of the emissions system, then there is even zero deductible.
My warranty is already out. I have 110k miles on it. I know that owning a diesel can be expensive, but I need to find the cheapest way possible to get this fixed.
Take out both batteries at any automotive shop that will test them for free. Pep Boys does it for me with their battery testing machine. The glow plugs and FICM may not be getting enough of a charge. My batteries lasted about 3-1/2 years.
Next thing is to check the oil levels. The truck needs to build up oil pressure to start. Once warm, it's a bit easier to start. If you have a scanner, try checking the oil pressure readings.
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2005 F350 turbo diesel Lariat 4x4 ext cab, short bed, SCT x2, MBRP turbo back, WeatherGuard box, the "beagle hauler".
1965 Factory Five Spyder GT, the 2nd one built out of 39 total. No top, no windows, no radio, no mufflers. Yeah, it's sweet.
Once it starts up, do you have a white cloud out the tailpipe and rough idle for a few moments? If so, there is an "inductive heat flash" for the FICM which may help in starting.
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2005 F350 turbo diesel Lariat 4x4 ext cab, short bed, SCT x2, MBRP turbo back, WeatherGuard box, the "beagle hauler".
1965 Factory Five Spyder GT, the 2nd one built out of 39 total. No top, no windows, no radio, no mufflers. Yeah, it's sweet.
Once it starts up, do you have a white cloud out the tailpipe and rough idle for a few moments? If so, there is an "inductive heat flash" for the FICM which may help in starting.
Is it really very common for stiction to get so bad that you could not start it when cold? Certainly rough starts, and rough running, but I don't recall seeing a no-start fixed w/ the inductive heat flash (although I will readily admit I could be remembering wrong on this).
When it finally starts, it feels like there is a cylinder or two missing and black smoke will come out the tail pipe. After it is warms, there are no misses and no black smoke.
The batteries are about 9 months old and thery are under warranty from Autozone.
A no-start can be very complicated, so start with the basics. Even though your batteries are fairly new, one could be weak. Always a good idea to load check and know for sure.
Are you using the proper oil and filter and (as InetDev advised) is it at the proper level? How long since last changed?
Also as InetDev mentioned, the inductive heat flash is very much worth having, but it is about $100.
Personally, I would also pull the EGR valve and clean it - but be sure to follow the instructions.
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