How to align crankshaft when replacing heads - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 10-19-2008, 05:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How to align crankshaft when replacing heads

I am doing headgaskets today and the service manual states this.

NOTICE: Rotate the crankshaft until the damper locating dowel notch is in the 6 o'clock position or engine damage can occur.

There is no diagram of this notch. Can anyone help explain what I am looking for? I see something that looks like a notch cut out on the inside of the pulley about the width of my finger, is this it?

Thank you,
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Old 10-20-2008, 02:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Just wanted to bump this to the top to maybe catch one of the tech's eye.
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Old 10-21-2008, 11:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
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They are talking about the Locateing Dowel pin hole in the balancer itself.
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Old 10-21-2008, 12:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grounder View Post
They are talking about the Locateing Dowel pin hole in the balancer itself.

Ah...thanks! I think I know what that is then, the small hole located between two of the bolts that hold the damper on. I kept looking for a notch of some sort and not a hole.

Thank you.
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Old 10-21-2008, 01:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I wouldn't worry about it. I've never done that and never have had a problem. I would recommend that you spin the crankshaft over by hand with the heads and rocker arms on, with the glow plugs or injectors out (to make it easier to spin). Spin the motor over a few times to make sure the push rods are seated in the lifters and there is no binding.
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Old 10-21-2008, 04:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Gofasterdammit View Post
I wouldn't worry about it. I've never done that and never have had a problem. I would recommend that you spin the crankshaft over by hand with the heads and rocker arms on, with the glow plugs or injectors out (to make it easier to spin). Spin the motor over a few times to make sure the push rods are seated in the lifters and there is no binding.
Thank you, will do!
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:24 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I know this is an old thread but this is probably the best place to post this for future reference, I'll delete this post in my other thread.

I was just about to slide my engine back into the frame after head replacement and realized I hadn't turned it over by hand since the heads etc were installed.

The alignment dowel was in the 6 o'clock position where I left it after assembling everything. So I put a bar on the crank and rotated it clockwise, it stopped dead at about the 11 position, I rotated it counter clockwise and it stopped at the 1 O'clock position, I tried several times back and forth and it always stopped at the same point. I removed glow plugs, no change. I pulled the covers and oil rails just to observe the valve train, couldn't see anything abnormal.

I blew air in through the GP holes in case a bolt somehow ended up in there so it would rattle...nothing.

The oil pan has been off but the engine was never flipped over on the stand so gravity would be my friend here, there should be nothing in the bottom end jamming it up.

It's a DEAD stop, there is no cushion or play on the wrench while turning the crank, when it stops, it stops.

I really hope someone has some ideas that doesn't involve pulling heads...

Thanks in advance for any insight.
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:02 AM   #8 (permalink)
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OK, I think I may have found the issue, one push rod on the front passenger cylinder is not centered in the hole, Every other push rod in the engine appears to be centered like the one on the left in the pic. The one on the right is the one that seems to be against the side of the hole.

So my question is if I remove the one head bolt circled in red to fix it, can I just re-torque that one bolt without replacing the head gasket and all bolts on that side?
I indexed all the bolts with paint when installing so I will know when it is back where I initially put it.



Thanks in advance for help!
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:50 AM   #9 (permalink)
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That was the issue, the push rod was not seated properly. I have re-seated it, torqued the small bolt to 23lbs, torqued the head bolt to 85lbs, now my next question:

The procedure next calls for 270 degrees of torque angle. If you look at the bolt in red in the pic, that is how I did all the bolts, I indexed them with the dot in the 6 o'clock position so they all ended up in the 3 o'clock position after the 3 - 90 deg passes as required. But after reinstalling this bolt, you can see in the pic it wound up at the 10 o'clock position instead of 6 after the 85 lbs was applied. I assume that is from stretching the bolt the first time, should I re-index it then add the 270 deg to it or just put it back to the original position at the 3 o'clock position?

The other answer is I guess trying to come up with a new head bolt.

All of this is assuming that this is not a really bad idea without replacing the head gasket and all bolts. The engine has never been started or been through a head cycle, I really hope the odds of failure doing it this way is very low but I'm all ears.

Once again, I appreciate any input you have. Thanks!
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Old 08-27-2015, 04:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I hate to answer a question like this especially on somebodyelses money.
The odds are fairly good that you can leave it as is. I know of many who have changed head bolts to studs and viceversa, one at a time with no issues. However I have also known many who this did not work.
Kind of a Clint Eastwood moment, are you feeling lucky?
One thing is do not try to get another turn out of it, you will probably break the bolt.
That is something we do not want at this stage of the game.
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I Haven't seen anyone install torque to yield bolts on a 6.0 in a long time. If you don't mind me asking why didn't you install studs?
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Old 08-28-2015, 05:54 AM   #12 (permalink)
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You probably already know this, but TTY bolts are one time use. Once it is removed, it no longer has the proper clamping force, as you have already "yielded" the bolt. NEVER reuse a TTY bolt.
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Old 08-28-2015, 08:37 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I thought about this yesterday for a while and decided to look around for a new bolt. Some dealership, specialty repair shop, or somebody that went with studs must have a bolt to sell me....nope.

So I ordered VR bolts from my local parts place at $35 set, they will be in this morning. I will use just one from the set. I even picked up a new push rod for 10 bucks just in case. No point in gambling when I'm in this deep.

toddtoo: I know they are TTY bolts, I just got my self thinking that maybe for just one bolt it would be OK. But when I found bolts for $35 bucks, it became a moot point. Through Ford, the only answer I got was "buy the full kits with gaskets"

BGilton79: there is a long sad story in another thread about what my original plan was, but in a nutshell, this motor is approaching 400K of hard towing miles, it will not be my final solution.

This was suppose to be a budget solution to buy me some time until I was ready to do a full long block but that blew up (no pun intended) when I ended up putting 2 fresh fomoco heads on the old engine due to cracked heads on the used engine and debris in the oil pan. So I will be looking to buy a short block not too far down the road and move these heads over when it's time. That engine will get "bulletproofed".

dannyboy: as always, well constructed reply, you nailed it in a nutshell..."do I feel lucky?", I guess I didn't. The guy at the parts store said it was scary how many guys come in and just buy gaskets and then reuse the bolts, mostly "backyard mechanics" he said, but still, really?

Thanks to all that replied, it should be ready to drop into the frame today.
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