6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
I have an '03 PSD which is running fine. I am, however, intrigued by the idea of unplugging my EGR valve. Along with this I'd like to have a look at the valve to see just how gunky it is after 27K miles. According to the shop manual, you need a special 4 pronged tool to remove it. Is this really the case? Can anybody relate to me how they removed theirs? Also, if you do remove it, are there any new gaskets or O-rings I should have on hand for the re-install? I am really curious to get a look at the little bugger, especially as I run Schaeffer's fuel treatment with every tank. Thanks in advance.
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Another succesful Schaeffers advertisement. First post, too! Nice.
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Huh? I have over 33K on my 03 and have not had any engine problems. Perhaps I just got lucky and got a good engine. My engine was built on a Thursday, not a Monday (hung over from the weekend) or a Friday (can't wait to get off work). Or, maybe it's that Stanadyne performance formula I add every fill up. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
As far as removing the EGR valve, some have used a pair of pliers. Maybe a set of cannon plug pliers will do the trick. I've thought about pulling my EGR valve off and cleaning it, but I'm worried I may damage it in the process. Those little puppies cost $200+. Their are some o-rings on it, but unless you break them removing the EGR valve, I don't think you'll need to replace them.
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My html Version of the 6.0L Bible Now with 2005 Updates $5 AIC
2003 F-350 Lariat CC/6.0L Diesel/TorqShift/3.73/FX4/SRW/Dark Shadow Gray.
Born on date: Jan 20, 2003
Number of reflashes done: 2 (05E15 Jan 8, 2007)
Number of C94 injectors replaced: 0
Number of times the EGR valve has been replaced/cleaned: 0 (updated: 4/15/2010)
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Another succesful Schaeffers advertisement. First post, too! Nice.
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F350, What in the chit do you have against Schaeffer's? For some reason you feel compelled to reply in a negative manner to people who mention that they use Schaeffer's products?
By the way, Schaeffer's do make great products.
__________________ 2007.5 Chevy 2500 HD (Dark Blue) - LMM Duramax & Allison - C/C S/B 4x4 Z71 - Sirius Sat Radio & iPod (thanks PIE Interface) - Oil Guard Bypass Filtration - 2 Micron Caterpillar Fuel Filtration - EGR Blocker Plate - PCV Reroute - MBRP 4" Turbo Back - EFI Live
Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
You guys can run all the snake oil you want..... in my humble experience, clogged EGRs are but one of the many effects of wet stacking.
If you've had the EGR plug off, it is reasonable to assume that there is a catalytic converter in your future..... and no big dollar additive will change that.
Please excuse the stupidity...., but would it be reasonable to assume that we should leave the EGR alone? Have not had any problems to date accept an ocasional idle fluctuation.
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'04 F250 SC XLT 4X4 6.0 TS - Muffler Delete, Mobile 1
'73 F250 LWB XL 4X4 390-Far From Stock
'59 Plymouth Sport Fury 361 Golden Commando-Sweet
'85 Yamaha Vmax 160hp-Scarry
'80 Honda CBX 6cyl-Cool
That's exactly why I am asking the question - I don't want to mess with it if the removal is problematic. But if the valve IS easy to inspect, it would be better to see how clean/fouled it is well before it starts acting up at an inopportune time.
As for whoever thinks I am a saleman for anything, well, you read way too much into my post. I mention the product in question because I have seen some posts that bemoan the quality of today's diesel fuel - and those that advocate the use of fuel additives. I don't want to waste my money on snake oil, to be sure. Didn't know I had to walk on eggshells...
Please note this is now my second post...for those that are keeping score. I've picked up a lot of great info from this forum - maybe that's why I do a lot more listening than talking.
Thanks in advance for any further constructive advice on the EGR valve.
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If you've had the EGR plug off, it is reasonable to assume that there is a catalytic converter in your future..... and no big dollar additive will change that.
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That is of course assuming you have a cat!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
SuperDutyDoug,
Welcome to the site. A Rolling Head Pry Bar seems to do the trick for me. Pliers tend to scar the housing. I have cleaned mine with B-12 Chemtool. You shouldn't harm the rubber O-Rings when pulling it, but make sure you take them off for cleaning and lube them good before putting back in. The valve may seem hard to get out, but a little persuasion will be needed.
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2004 F250 XLT Sport FX4 Crew Cab SWB, TorqShift, ESOF, 6.0, True Blue, Black Leather Captains Chairs, Moonroof. Built 04-05-04
Mods: ISSPRO gauges in under cubby pod. MBRP Dual exhaust turbo back (straight piped). AFE Stage 2 Intake w/ Dry S filter. Fumoto Valve. Harpooned tank(pics in my gallery). 33X12.50X20 Toyo M/T. 20" XD Monster's (Black). ARP Head Studs Installed on 12-11-07 w/ OEM Heads
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You guys can run all the snake oil you want..... in my humble experience, clogged EGRs are but one of the many effects of wet stacking.
If you've had the EGR plug off, it is reasonable to assume that there is a catalytic converter in your future..... and no big dollar additive will change that.
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OK, I'll bite--What is "wet stacking"??? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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'05 SD F250 4X4 SC Lariat 158"WB styleside 6.0L 5spd. auto 3.73LS LT275/70RX18E Dark Toreador Red/Arizona Beige Med. Pebble Leather Bone Stock
From what respected Ford diesel techs have said before, The soot that makes an EGR valve go bad, is up inside the stem. Taking it out and cleaning the face of it wont help. Its what gets inside is what screws it up.
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2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
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